#1The proper way to disassemble the trans is by removing the bottom inspection plate, starter, and loosening the surrounding bell housing bolts. Always keep the top bolts intact until last.
#2This will be my last bolt. BTW, the inspection plate takes a 1/2" wrench on four bolts plus three starter motor bolts. All the rest require a 5/8" wrench.
#3Up close and personal at the bottom inspection plate just behind the oil pan.
#4
#5
The starter motor is removed and half of the inspection plate bolts.
#6
Now, I'm on the other driver's side (LH), underneath. The inspection plate is off, and the Torque Converter Nuts are showing.
I need a 9/16" wrench to remove all four nuts. Again, it helps to use a flat blade screwdriver in the flex plate teeth to stop the
crank from turning.
#7
One down, three to go.
#8
That other hex (next to the nut I removed) is a Drain Plug for the Torque Converter.
To keep things in balance, there are two, 180 degrees apart.
#9
Now loosen the surrounding 7/16" bolts. BTW, 7/16" is an odd size and rarely used. Not all places stock them
especially in a decent hardness. If you are using an engine stand, you will need long 7/16" bolts because these
are the bolt holes that the engine stand uses. Most all the bolts on this engine were cold headed right at Ford Motor Co.,
characterized by the "F" on each bolt head.
#10
One last bolt to loosen.
#11
Remove all trans lines before separating.
#12
When the last bolt is removed, the Bell Housing is located on two pins. One foot-nudge does the trick.
#13
Nudge on the opposite side and they're separated.
#14
#15
#16
This trans is going to RC Trans & Gear. My good friend, Randy Carron and his son Mike, own it and have been
doing transmission overhauls for decades, right here in Royal Oak, Michigan.
#17
The assembly process follows the exact opposite directions. This is how the factory does it. If you try mounting the
Torque Converter to the Flex Plate first, there is a good chance something will break (and these parts are expensive).
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