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  • orwin
    1960 Tbird
    • Jun 17 2008
    • 142

    430 Engine Stand

    In response to a couple of requests, here are the plans for the 430 engine stand. I used leftover landscape timbers, predrilled them for galvanized spikes, and used some heavy duty casters from Harbor Freight. The dimensions can certainly be varied but the key dimension is 23 1/2" between the holes.

    Regards
    Attached Files
    John Orwin
    1960 HT 430
    VTCI #11290
    Tbird Registry #1590
  • GTE427
    Super-Experienced
    • Oct 9 2007
    • 602

    #2
    Thanks John!
    Ken
    1959 J Convertible
    1960 J Hardtop

    Comment

    • tbird430
      Super-Experienced
      • Jun 18 2007
      • 2648

      #3
      That is too cool.

      Now I feel like buying those other 2 Lincoln 430's someone posted off Craig's List & keeping them "tucked away".


      -Jon IN TX.
      sigpic
      The 1960 Ford Thunderbird. The WORLD'S most wanted car....

      VTCI Member#6287.

      Comment

      • orwin
        1960 Tbird
        • Jun 17 2008
        • 142

        #4
        Guys, this may sound crazy but if you've looked at some of the "test stands" available for running your engine while out of the car, I think my design could be modified for this. I would make the parts with the casters wider to avoid tipping over under the torque. Also something a little better for the rear support. However the starter needs the bellhousing to mount to. Any ideas on this? I could just take the bellhousing off the trans for the test run. Anyone done anything like this? Could you run with the trans attached?

        Regards,
        John Orwin
        1960 HT 430
        VTCI #11290
        Tbird Registry #1590

        Comment

        • simplyconnected
          Administrator
          • May 26 2009
          • 8778

          #5
          I always run my newly overhauled engines on their cradles.
          (Pepper is bugging me to play, 'fetch'.)

          I make my cradles "modular" so I can use them for different engines. Some iron is welded, and sub assemblies are bolted. That white stuff on the iron is eating away the rust before I painted it. I needed to use the cradle right away, so I painted some of it now and some of it later.


          I left the 'tail' section long to mount the tranny. The feet are spread a little broader than the exhaust manifolds. This engine is 625 pounds (just the engine, no bell housing).

          Yes! If you keep the engine low, you can run your engines before installing them. I ran this one several times. Notice, there is no fan. I needed to bring the engine to temperature and let the thermostat open. The heater hoses keep the radiator a safe distance away from the water pump pulley.

          I had a battery and a big knife switch next to the engine (on a 'work mate' horse). You can see the wires from the starter and alternator. Yep, a Y-Block with a Ford alternator.

          If you rebuild the tranny, and plan on storing it for an extended length of time, you should run it first. This will make sure none of the internals will rust or corrode.

          Don't run the tranny dry. I use a special 'cup' I put over the tail shaft in place of the yolk. It clears the spline but seals nicely. Also, run the cooling lines together.


          The cradle works sweet. - Dave
          Member, Sons of the American Revolution

          CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

          "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
          --Lee Iacocca

          From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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