Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Best oil for 430MEL

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • rrh24
    Newbie
    • Jul 20 2023
    • 17

    Best oil for 430MEL

    I am looking for recommendations on what oil to run in my 430MEL? The engine builder that did my 302 was adamant about using VR1 10-30 for that rebuilt motor. When I asked him about changing out the oil in the 430, he said the same oil should be ok for this motor.

    I wanted to get some other opinions before changing.

    thx

  • simplyconnected
    Administrator
    • May 26 2009
    • 9094

    #2
    This subject has been covered extensively. In order to answer I have to know if your cam is a flat tappet or a roller cam. I also want to know if your heads have hardened seats with stainless valves. - Dave
    Member, Sons of the American Revolution

    CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

    "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
    --Lee Iacocca

    From: Royal Oak, Michigan

    Comment

    • rrh24
      Newbie
      • Jul 20 2023
      • 17

      #3
      Sorry....I've been searching but haven't been able to find any info on what viscosities and mfg. folks are running in their 430s. It appears this motor has the original intake, heads etc. on it with a legit 38k miles from what I've been able to track down. With that said, I could be incorrect but this would be a flat tappet and the seats won't be hardened. (Based off original SAE recommendations in the shop manual I'm leaning towards 20W-50 VR1)
      thx again

      Comment

      • jopizz
        Super-Experienced


        • Nov 23 2009
        • 9382

        #4
        It doesn't matter what engine you have. What's important is whether you have hardened valve seats. If your 430 is original and the heads have never been rebuilt with hardened valve seats then you need an oil that has a high zinc (ZDDP) content. Many of us use Rotella T 15W-40 Diesel oil https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/prod...dHRlci9lbl91cw
        It has enough zinc to lubricate your valves and is fairly inexpensive and easy to find. Maybe this chart will help.

        zinc oils.jpg

        John
        John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

        Thunderbird Registry #36223
        jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

        https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

        Comment

        • TexasCarGuy
          Newbie
          • Oct 24 2025
          • 16

          #5
          My maintenance manual calls for 20-20w for my 430 Mel is this correct? Everything is bone stock except the Holley efi. I will use high zinc and add zinc to it as i do all my cars.

          Comment

          • jopizz
            Super-Experienced


            • Nov 23 2009
            • 9382

            #6
            You want to use a multi-viscosity oil like 10w-30 or higher. Oil technology is light years ahead of where it was in the late 50's so the manual is not really relevant any longer. Many of us use Rotella-T 15w-40 diesel oil which has a good amount of zinc and is easy to find.

            John
            John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

            Thunderbird Registry #36223
            jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

            https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

            Comment

            • pbf777
              Experienced
              • Jan 9 2016
              • 326

              #7
              Yes, the "Rotella" diesel oils have been very popular as a means of acquiring an "older" lubricant mixture, with particular interest in the "ZDDP" content. But do understand that although the commercial diesel industry has been allowed to "drag its' feet" in the conversion to the more modern "stuff", it is in the transitional stage and though this product still "might" be capable of one's intention, it's just "not" what it use to be!

              As the O.P. is referencing a "430 M.E.L.", that alone pretty much rules out "roller-cams" (especially Hydraulic-roller) so that means one does need to consider one of the oil products which do contain what might be felt as an adequate sum of the "ZDDP". And based on discussions with "oil engineers" over the years, the idea that just pouring-in some sort of "additive" and that this will bridge the gap of what the base oil might be vs. what one feels in needs to be, isn't a very sound practice, this as due to the complex chemical makeup of oils today.

              Next inquiry seems to be of "viscosity". Here one needs to consider the original intent by the O.E.M., this having a lot to do with "flow routing", "clearances", "surface area loading", including "component/part inertia values", etc., etc.; so as stated by another, nothing lighter than a 10w-30 would probably be wise here.

              Then, one needs to temper the viscosity consideration with the "environmental conditions"; this being for example, how hot is the normal functional temperature of the engine, this often influenced by the ambient temperatures in the environment. And generally: "Hotter = Thicker", "Colder = Thinner". So the advised viscosity for one's vehicle in Alaska, particularly in the winter, but also most any time of the year, isn't the same stuff that one should probably be utilizing in Arizona, particularly in the summer!

              And then we might want to consider the "operational practices"; that being, the "harder you run it", e.g. pulling heavier loads, excessive R.P.M.'s, all of which result in greater loads being placed on the "oil film thickness" protecting the componentry at their points of interactions, generally will benefit from a higher viscosity. "Short-hops", light loads, just low-speed "cruising", might be a better application for something on the lighter side.

              And so forth . . . .

              Scott.







              Scott.

              Comment

              Working...
              😀
              🥰
              🤢
              😎
              😡
              👍
              👎