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  • #16
    This is **** confusing. Many say to have at least 1200ppm ZDDP for break-in. There's nothing on Shell's website to say what the actual content is. Why not just go full synthetic and be done with it? So what if it costs twice as much. Oil is cheaper than camshafts.

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    • #17
      Probably use this for break in. Supposed to be ".13 percent of zinc and .12 percent of phosphorus". http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/76

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      • #18
        [QUOTE=Yadkin;70124]...Why not just go full synthetic and be done with it?..QUOTE]Our cars don't benefit from synthetic oils because they don't get extremely hot. Turbo charged and airplane engines get hot so they need synthetic to stop the oil from breaking down.

        There is no more lubrication in synthetic than in good conventional oil. Some folks like using synthetic because it lasts longer between changes. I prefer changing my oil before regular scheduled maintenance intervals.

        That little can of paper we call a filter bypasses most of the oil, especially when it's cold. When you change the oil, that's the REAL filtration. BTW, all oil goes through the pump FIRST, then the filter later. Dirt in the oil accelerates wear in the oil pump rotors. That's why I always replace oil pumps and drive shafts at every teardown and buildup. - Dave
        My latest project:
        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
        --Lee Iacocca

        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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        • #19
          Dave, I've heard of replacing the oil pump driveshaft on small blocks because it tends to "round out" but never heard that about such an over-lubricated part like the pump.

          So do you like the Rotella T? Its on sale now at Advance and I can stock up.

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          • #20
            Steve, the pump may get plenty of oil BUT it also picks up all the little pieces of metal (and everything else that goes through the screen).

            I had one on my 531W (a modern EFI w/roller cam) that had metal embeded in the rotors. I almost fell over when I saw it. This was a 'crate engine' from Ford Racing, after my daily abuse of many years. Your drive shaft is 1/4" but this one is 3/8", which is MUCH heavier. Believe me, a 1/4" shaft would have stopped immediately. Do NOT buy a cheap drive shaft.

            For my Y-Block, I love Rotella-T. It works well and has plenty of zddp for my solid lifters & stock Ford cam. It's been two years since I overhauled the engine. Everything runs strong but I want to install a 4-bbl setup I got after the rebuild. I didn't get around to it this year because I'm swamped with other things to do. The car runs strong with the 292 2-bbl and COM. - Dave
            My latest project:
            CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

            "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
            --Lee Iacocca

            From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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            • #21
              I think you meant "351W", probably the best engine Ford produced back in the day. I put 185K on my '72 with just a simple head rebuild and oil pan gasket, and it never burned or leaked oil. Of course I maintained it well by re-torquing the intake manifold per schedule and periodic carb rebuilds. It passed emissions testing with a "zero" and got great fuel economy.

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              • #22
                Jomar makes a non-bypass oil filter
                http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

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