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Power Window fixin'

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  • scumdog

    • May 12 2006
    • 1528

    Power Window fixin'

    Out in our '66 landau and my beloved found the passenger window didn't want to go down, it's done that in the past once or twice. over the last decade or so.

    The cure used to be to take off the door card (and all that go with it!) and slacken the four bolts holding the electric motor and mechanism in place then hit the switch again, normally the bit of play resulting from slackening the bolts frees up the window.

    Not this time!
    Mrs Scumdog operated the switch but the window still only wanted to go up, not down, after I took out all four bolts completely and a few tries she succeeded in winding the rack right off the little pinion, now we're in the doo-doo! -then the rollers came right out of their channels leaving the window free to drop (But see below) in place, now we we're in deep doo-doo!

    After painfully wrangling the whole shebang out the door I retired to the workshop and with the aid of a battery, some small jumper leads and a vice I managed to get the rack and pinion working together and attempted to introduce the set-up the window, much sweat (and a few nasty words from me) Mrs Scumdog and I came to the conclusion that the three rollers were never going to get into their appropriate channels

    So, we came to realise the best chance was to remove the short channel that is attached to the inside of the door with two studs that go through two slotted holes , (took photos of where the bolts were positioned in the slots), we removed it and got the other two rollers into their respective channels then replaced the aforementioned short channel after sliding it onto the roller.

    Hooked up a battery using jumper leads to the motor and the window worked!!

    Turns out it was only the dang switch that was faulty!! - it worked for going up but not down. (Now adjusted so it mostly works, I could be looking for another one soon though)

    So the tip is: Take out that short channel when refitting the rollers to the channels - and use a 19" or so of wood to hold the window up to give your hands a spell from holding up the window.
    A Thunderbirder from the Land of the Long White Cloud.
  • Dark Soul
    • May 2 2019
    • 82

    A lot of amps goes through those switch contacts. That's always the first place that I look.


    • simplyconnected
      • May 26 2009
      • 8809

      Put the rollers into the channels FIRST. Then, offer the arm pins to the rollers. Push them together, and done.

      Motors really have no preference of up or down. If the motor works in one direction but not the other, that should be a clue to look at the switch.
      BTW, I've never seen a 'worn out' window (or power seat) motor. They only rotate about a dozen turns at a time, up or down. It would take them over 100 years to wear out the brushes. More commonly, motors get 'gunked-up' inside from dirt and grease which holds the brushes off of the commutator. 12 volts is rather easy to hold back from making contact. So, a simple motor cleaning usually restores them to 'new'.
      Member, Sons of the American Revolution

      CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

      "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
      --Lee Iacocca

      From: Royal Oak, Michigan


      • BurtKR
        • Nov 24 2021
        • 6

        Originally posted by Dark Soul
        A lot of amps goes through those switch contacts. That's always the first place that I look.
        My uncle's '65 Tbird also having intermittent power window issues. We'll take a closer look at the motor and switch soon after we finish installing the bed cover and headache rack on the truck this weekend.