charge problem

[Guest]

I have a 65 and had to replace all the instrament gauges with mechanical sun pro gauges. The charge gauge has this loop thing off the back which I figured was some sort of resistor. those wires would not work with the new gauge and wouldn't even start the car unless I touched them together. I attatched them together and the car started and ran fine. The new gauge I attatched to a poss instament wire and the other end to a ground as instructions stated. The gauge worked fine. Last week I started the car pulled it out of the garage to do an oil change and when I went to start it it would only run for a few seconds and stall. This went one for awhile till I figured it wasn't getting power to the coil. I ran a hot wire to the battery and the car started right up and ran perfectly. When I disconected the wire the original connection was again hot and the car kept running normal. Figured it must have been a bad connection somewhere and the heating up from the battery must have reconnected it. Then I noticed the amp gauge is reading 10 volts and drops lower when I use any other power needing sorce. I had the altinator checked and it's fine I had replaced the voltage regulator months ago cause the original gauge was bouncing all over the place. Driving me nuts tring to figure what the problem is now with the charging system. Have power at the altinator and power at the voltage regulaor but testing the battery for charge is reading the same as the inside gauge. Could the new voltage regulator be bad? it is one of them transistorized ones. HELP

[Joe Johnston]

I vaguely recall people having issues with certain alternators and the electronic voltage regulators. Unfortunately I don't remember where or what it was. Hopefully someone here will straighten us both out!

[simplyconnected]

You have custom gauges that don't run from the same power your original gauges ran from.

When you said your amp gage read in VOLTS, that totally baffled me.

None of your gauges should cause wires to heat up or 'run hot'. None of your gauges should have any control over your ignition circuit or your starting circuit. They are totally separate.

If I were you, I would note all the wiring changes you did and call the new gauge company. Maybe they can help straighten out your faults BEFORE you address the alternator and voltage regulator.

If I were to prove the voltage regulator, I would unplug anything unnecessary and take a meter reading at the battery. If your car charges at 13.5 VDC, your regulator is ok. While it's running, turn on the headlights to give it a load. If the battery maintains 13.5, your regulator is doing its job. - Dave

Edit: BTW, if you don't have a volt/ohm meter, trek down US-41 to Ft. Myers, where Harbor Freight sells them for a few bucks.
Punta Gorda is only a couple miles from I-75. So am I, but 1,300 miles north of you.

[Guest]

gauges

You have custom gauges that don't run from the same power your original gauges ran from.

When you said your amp gage read in VOLTS, that totally baffled me.

None of your gauges should cause wires to heat up or 'run hot'. None of your gauges should have any control over your ignition circuit or your starting circuit. They are totally separate.

If I were you, I would note all the wiring changes you did and call the new gauge company. Maybe they can help straighten out your faults BEFORE you address the alternator and voltage regulator.

If I were to prove the voltage regulator, I would unplug anything unnecessary and take a meter reading at the battery. If your car charges at 13.5 VDC, your regulator is ok. While it's running, turn on the headlights to give it a load. If the battery maintains 13.5, your regulator is doing its job. - Dave

Edit: BTW, if you don't have a volt/ohm meter, trek down US-41 to Ft. Myers, where Harbor Freight sells them for a few bucks.
Punta Gorda is only a couple miles from I-75. So am I, but 1,300 miles north of you.

update to try to explain better. All the gauges are mechanical and have nothing to do with the old hook ups. temp , oil , fuel , amps. I did mean amps not volts sorry. When I said heated up meant got power as in there was no power and after I hot wired ( ran a wire to the battery ) the car then had power to the coil and started and once I removed that wire to the battery the darn wire that was still connected to the coil as it always was had power again and car still starts with no problem. The gauges I replaced all fit into the original bezels but are all hooked up via temp bulb , or plastic tube to the oil preasure location replacing the old style electrical sending unit and not to the original wireing except the fuel gauge and all are to the original panel light wires only. The gauge shows a discharge when I start the car or turn on the lights or step on the brakes etc etc. I am thinking maybe there is a loose connection on one of the main power blocks that connects the voltage reg or the altinator or maybe the ignition switch is bad. As I said when the car wouldn't start and had no power to the coil is the same time I had a no charge reading on the gauge. Now the coil wire has power again but still no charge.

[Guest]

gauges

You have custom gauges that don't run from the same power your original gauges ran from.

When you said your amp gage read in VOLTS, that totally baffled me.

None of your gauges should cause wires to heat up or 'run hot'. None of your gauges should have any control over your ignition circuit or your starting circuit. They are totally separate.

If I were you, I would note all the wiring changes you did and call the new gauge company. Maybe they can help straighten out your faults BEFORE you address the alternator and voltage regulator.

If I were to prove the voltage regulator, I would unplug anything unnecessary and take a meter reading at the battery. If your car charges at 13.5 VDC, your regulator is ok. While it's running, turn on the headlights to give it a load. If the battery maintains 13.5, your regulator is doing its job. - Dave

Edit: BTW, if you don't have a volt/ohm meter, trek down US-41 to Ft. Myers, where Harbor Freight sells them for a few bucks.
Punta Gorda is only a couple miles from I-75. So am I, but 1,300 miles north of you.

update to try to explain better. All the gauges are mechanical and have nothing to do with the old hook ups. temp , oil , fuel , amps. I did mean amps not volts sorry. When I said heated up meant got power as in there was no power and after I hot wired ( ran a wire to the battery ) the car then had power to the coil and started and once I removed that wire to the battery the darn wire that was still connected to the coil as it always was had power again and car still starts with no problem. The gauges I replaced all fit into the original bezels but are all hooked up via temp bulb , or plastic tube to the oil preasure location replacing the old style electrical sending unit and not to the original wireing except the fuel gauge and all are to the original panel light wires only. The gauge shows a discharge when I start the car or turn on the lights or step on the brakes etc etc. I am thinking maybe there is a loose connection on one of the main power blocks that connects the voltage reg or the altinator or maybe the ignition switch is bad. As I said when the car wouldn't start and had no power to the coil is the same time I had a no charge reading on the gauge. Now the coil wire has power again but still no charge. Yes from here harbor freight isn't too much a ride. I can get one at home depot as well. I had an extra amp gauge and hooked it to the battery it also read low when the car was running so thinking the gauge in the car is working. I might have to bring the car to a shop I guess cause I am lost on this one. 3 wires from the altinator one has power the plug on the regulator again one has power. I have ordered another regulator from rock auto just to see if it's thatsince the auto store already said the altinator is working fine. well hi dave, almost a neighbor. this car is bringing me some bad memories from when I owned a 64 bird.

[Guest]

I vaguely recall people having issues with certain alternators and the electronic voltage regulators. Unfortunately I don't remember where or what it was. Hopefully someone here will straighten us both out!

this car was a mistake buying. Had so many things wrong or missing but the charge thing is the newest. pulled it out of the garage changed the oil wouldn't start back up or wouldn't stay running. found out it had no power going to the coil. ran a wire from the battery to the coil the car started and ran perfectly or as good as this car runs. Disconnected the wire it ran for a few minutes and stalled out again. replaced the wire from the battery and it ran again . disconnected it and this time it kept running and now the ignition coil wire had power again. But still no charge. drivin me nuts and it's too hot to stay out there to work on it. anyway yeah hope someone can give me an idea on what it might be since the altinator has been checked out by advanced auto and it comes up good condition.

[jopizz]

If you look at the wiring diagram you will notice that the "C" post on your ignition switch feeds both the "S" terminal on your voltage regulator and your coil. Turn the key to the ON position and check the coil + terminal and the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator with a test light or voltmeter and see if you get voltage. If not you may have a bad switch. Also check the brown wire on your starter solenoid. That wire sends 12V to your coil on start up.

John

[simplyconnected]

You can go to a bone yard and buy a modern Ford alternator, complete with internal regulator, cheaper than buying replacement parts for your old charging system AND your GEN light will still work (if you have one). The front pulleys are interchangeable and more modern alternators output much higher amps. - Dave

[jhuebner]

Is there any wiring that needs changed if switching to a modern alternator.....like by passing the external voltage regulator

[simplyconnected]

If you buy an alternator from a bone yard, they usually come with all the connectors needed.

If you buy new or rebuilt parts, you will need a couple cables (depending on the model of alt.). Most all the big auto parts stores carry cables. - Dave