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speedometer repaint face and fuel gauge adjusting

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  • vermbird
    replied
    ray, nice talking with you. thanks for al your help and input.

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  • YellowRose
    replied
    Warren, please give me a call, ASAP... 210-875-1411. I have someone who I think can help you in your area...

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  • vermbird
    replied
    about to give up and try and find someone who knows about old fords in san diego. i had adjusted the arms so that the gauge read empty just sitting and read full with 3 volts powered. hung it from the dash, took out the sender, plugged in and grounded. gauge went to empty when i moved the float arm to empty, and went to 90% full when i swung the arm to the full position. so i reinstalled the sender unit. with key off sits on empty but with key on only goes to 1/4 full although tank is about 3/4 full. i am stumped and giving up. temp gauge works fine and i get oscillation current at the black/green stripe wires going to the fuel and temp gauges.

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  • vermbird
    replied
    they may have only been on bulletbirds. i found one on eBay, used ,for sale. says its from a '61 tbird.
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  • vermbird
    replied
    happy mothers day to all. upshot to gauges. i adjusted the arms as Dave said to do. now the gauge is on E with power off, and when powered with 3 volts from batteries, gauge goes to F. great, I think. now I took the clock off and found that the radio suppressor coil is fried. I think this coil was put on bullet birds as it was not on Squarebirds. when i powered the CVR without the coil attached, I got my oscillation current out of the female "spade", about 1-5 volts. so my CVR is good. I will wire it without the radio suppression coil and I bet I will get my oscillating current from the black/green stripe at the gauges. hopefully no wires were fried between the gauges and the CVR. i don't know if anyone reproduces the coil but I can live with static on my AM radio. if anyone has thoughts please let me know. thanks to all again. see photos attached.
    Attached Files

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  • vermbird
    replied
    the saga continues. i put the 3 volts on the fuel gauge and adjusted both arms/gears. now the gauge goes to FULL with 3 volts and EMPTY without any current to it. so i think (and pray) that the gauge is adjusted now. then ,I have the no power issue to the sender or out of the green/black wires from the CVR.

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  • vermbird
    replied
    i am in tears. hooked up the gauge with the 4 wires, yellow to fuel , red white to temp. black/green to other side of each gauge. turned on the key got 1/3 reading, not 3/4 as i would have expected with 3/4 of tank full. then some smoke came out from behind the gauges. turned off key. now no gauge movement. could not locate if i had melted a wire, looked around, took some insulation off the harness, no obvious damage. put voltmeter on green/black stripe, hot side and black lead to ground . no voltage. put test lamp on wire going from gauge to sensor in trunk, no flashing as before the incident. so i guess i blew the CVR or less likely the wire from the CVR to the gauges. then i put 3 volts in series(2, 1.5 volt batteries) to the fuel gauge and the gauge went to little more than 3/4 full. powered the temp gauge and it went to HOT. so i am down in the dumps. first shall i adjust the "arms/gears in photo above marked X and see if i can get the fuel gauge to move to full, when powered with the 3 volts? Dave said i should adjust both arms with resistors but i don't know how to do that. assuming i can get the gas gauge adjusted properly, then i will need to pull out the speedo and clock and check continuity from the CVR to the black/green stripe terminals. if continuity ok, i guess the CVR is blown and i will need to replace it or get it rebuilt by the expert Dave, when he is back on his feet and recovered. sorry to be such a pest but all this makes me want to put the car on Hemming's auctions or BAT (bring a trailer). lousy way to start the weekend

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  • vermbird
    replied
    hi Dave, when i had the sender on my bench top i just put my ohm meter on it and moved the arm from full to empty. this gave me the resistance (with 200 ohm setting) . this was about 9 ohms at Full and 74 ohms at Empty. i didn't use any resistors to check if the sending unit worked properly. last night i gently moved the "gear" marked with the arrow, the same gear i moved when i played with it 2 months ago. i did not touch the "gear with the X marking. no electrical maneuvers were done for this adjustment. i don't understand where and how i will need to use resisters. my next step will be to temporarily hang the wired gauge on the dash, turn the key on and put the wired sender on the trunk floor and move the arm from E to F and see what happens
    Attached Files

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  • simplyconnected
    replied
    Originally posted by vermbird View Post
    midnight in calif, much later or earlier in other parts of the country.
    Yep, I answered your post at nearly 2am, my time (eastern).

    Where did the needle land on the dial when you substituted a 45-ohm and a 100-ohm resistor?

    Simply moving one adjustment arm won't render a good gauge reading. You need to adjust BOTH arms with each other as you check results using the resistors. The needle has an 'at rest stop' so that it cannot move beyond its limit, as I showed in my post.

    I'm still laughing at your internet advice to, 'pull the needle up' to remove it. That will certainly destroy the gauge because it isn't a clock.

    After calibrating the gauge, move on to the fuel tank sending unit. - Dave

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  • vermbird
    replied
    on bench top. just adjusted the arm of the fuel gauge so it is on the E line. will try to see how it works tomorrow. thanks, good nite . Screenshot_52.png . midnight in calif, much later or earlier in other parts of the country.

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  • vermbird
    replied
    ok great. i will hang the gauge, with the "adjusting arms" exposed ,wired to the dash, and adjust the gauge arm to get it towards empty. my idea (as a novice) is that i pull the sender unit out and leave it wired and grounded in the trunk. then move the arm to the EMPTY setting and then adjust the gauge so it reads empty. once done i can move the arm to FULL and hopefully the needle will go to the FULL position. and yes the sender is new, at least has never been adjusted or bent since i put it in maybe 3 years ago.( it looks brand new). thanks as always for your excellent input and knowledge. wishing you a speedy recovery

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  • simplyconnected
    replied
    The information in our TRL is not misinformation at all. In fact, it is more information than anyone needs. Please understand my words:
    Originally posted by simplyconnected View Post
    ...Truth is, there are NO GEARS anywhere inside Ford gauges. There is no armature, no magnetism, none of that. These gauges are nearly bulletproof and those 'cogs' you call 'gears' are simply part of two arms that pull on the needle. It's almost a mistake to put 'adjustment information' on our site because the gauges should not be altered except maybe by tiny amounts...

    ...Getting back to square one will be a challenge. I have no idea which 'gear' you moved, how far or in which direction. The best I can suggest is to follow the manual. Nearly all gauges are properly set and the only condition that changes is resistance in the sending units. The ni-chrome wire in each gauge IS a resistor but its value never changes...
    The fuel sending unit should range from 10-ohms (full scale), to 45-ohms (half scale), to 100-ohms (empty). You may use simple resistors (to ground) to simulate these settings. From your description, your gauge needs to be adjusted to where it was before you moved it. After the gauge is properly set, then the fuel sending unit's arm should be tweaked (only if it is new). My information is detailed and complete. If your mechanic follows it you will be back in business without buying more parts. - Dave
    Last edited by simplyconnected; May 6th, 2021, 01:11 AM.

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  • vermbird
    replied
    i trust the people on this website more than the Youtubers for sure. thanks as always to everyone's input.

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  • vermbird
    replied
    ok gauge is out. fuel level at midpoint, does not go to empty. what now? Screenshot_51.png Screenshot_50.png Screenshot_49.png

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  • vermbird
    replied
    ok got flashing test light with key on to the wire from the gauge to sender, so have voltage there. pulled sending unit. looks pristine/new. moved arm up and down with key on. gauge went to full with arm in full position , did not go below 5/8- 3/4 in other direction. took it to bench. put meter on 200 ohms and measured resistance: about 9+ ohms with float on "full", 74 ohms with float on empty. so sender is good. my gauge is stuck. time to pull gauge and inspect. maybe my piddling with the gears/arms 2 months ago screwed things up. I don't think gauge is shot though. don't want to mess things up

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