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speedometer repaint face and fuel gauge adjusting

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  • #16
    ok so i go to the trunk take the wire off the threaded post on the sender and ground it. if it goes to full that is good. but when it is hooked on to the sender and the key is off the gauge was reading half full. when i turn key on goes to 3/4 full maybe 8-10 gallons in it . i just grounded the wire from the fuel sender with the switch on and the gauge goes to full, so good. . when the key is off and sender unit connected to wire, the gauge does not go to empty, sits at 1/2 full. why is the gauge not returning to empty with the key off? i guess next i should take out the sender ground it with the sender wire hooked up and move the arm up and down to see if the gauge goes from empty with the arm cranked all the way down and full with it pulled up

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    • #17
      took wire off sender wire and grounded it. gauge went to full with key on. but, with key off gauge only goes to half full, never returns to empty. problem with the sender or the gauge?. as mentioned, temp gauge works correctly. i will open locking plate on sender and move it up and down to see if i can get the gauge to go to empty with key off. it should register empty with key off, correct? sorry i sent the same info twice, my mistake

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      • #18
        If the gauge doesn't go to empty with the sender wire off then the problem is most likely with the gauge. It's not the sender.

        John
        John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

        Thunderbird Registry #36223
        jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

        https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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        • #19
          ok i wont play with the sender arm at all for now. will take out the fuel gauge and try to see what is wrong with it. electrical problem, don't think that the minor adjustment i made with the little gears/arms that i was not supposed to touch would cause the gauge to stay in the middle. as Dave said the gauges usually are bullet-proof. if alex sosiaks post in the TRL is misinformation, maybe it should be removed, so others wont screw up.

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          • #20
            weird just looked at Youtube videos, when he grounded the line to the sending from the gauge and the gauge went to full, he said that means bad sending unit, so i am confused.

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            • #21
              Everything on the internet is true so I guess you have your answer. You can either trust Youtube or the people on the forum. If you'd rather trust Youtube to give you the correct answer then let us know so we don't waste our time.

              John
              John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

              Thunderbird Registry #36223
              jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

              https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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              • #22
                ok got flashing test light with key on to the wire from the gauge to sender, so have voltage there. pulled sending unit. looks pristine/new. moved arm up and down with key on. gauge went to full with arm in full position , did not go below 5/8- 3/4 in other direction. took it to bench. put meter on 200 ohms and measured resistance: about 9+ ohms with float on "full", 74 ohms with float on empty. so sender is good. my gauge is stuck. time to pull gauge and inspect. maybe my piddling with the gears/arms 2 months ago screwed things up. I don't think gauge is shot though. don't want to mess things up

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                • #23
                  ok gauge is out. fuel level at midpoint, does not go to empty. what now? Screenshot_51.png Screenshot_50.png Screenshot_49.png

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                  • #24
                    i trust the people on this website more than the Youtubers for sure. thanks as always to everyone's input.

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                    • #25
                      The information in our TRL is not misinformation at all. In fact, it is more information than anyone needs. Please understand my words:
                      Originally posted by simplyconnected View Post
                      ...Truth is, there are NO GEARS anywhere inside Ford gauges. There is no armature, no magnetism, none of that. These gauges are nearly bulletproof and those 'cogs' you call 'gears' are simply part of two arms that pull on the needle. It's almost a mistake to put 'adjustment information' on our site because the gauges should not be altered except maybe by tiny amounts...

                      ...Getting back to square one will be a challenge. I have no idea which 'gear' you moved, how far or in which direction. The best I can suggest is to follow the manual. Nearly all gauges are properly set and the only condition that changes is resistance in the sending units. The ni-chrome wire in each gauge IS a resistor but its value never changes...
                      The fuel sending unit should range from 10-ohms (full scale), to 45-ohms (half scale), to 100-ohms (empty). You may use simple resistors (to ground) to simulate these settings. From your description, your gauge needs to be adjusted to where it was before you moved it. After the gauge is properly set, then the fuel sending unit's arm should be tweaked (only if it is new). My information is detailed and complete. If your mechanic follows it you will be back in business without buying more parts. - Dave
                      Last edited by simplyconnected; May 6th, 2021, 01:11 AM.
                      My latest project:
                      CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                      "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                      --Lee Iacocca

                      From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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                      • #26
                        ok great. i will hang the gauge, with the "adjusting arms" exposed ,wired to the dash, and adjust the gauge arm to get it towards empty. my idea (as a novice) is that i pull the sender unit out and leave it wired and grounded in the trunk. then move the arm to the EMPTY setting and then adjust the gauge so it reads empty. once done i can move the arm to FULL and hopefully the needle will go to the FULL position. and yes the sender is new, at least has never been adjusted or bent since i put it in maybe 3 years ago.( it looks brand new). thanks as always for your excellent input and knowledge. wishing you a speedy recovery

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                        • #27
                          on bench top. just adjusted the arm of the fuel gauge so it is on the E line. will try to see how it works tomorrow. thanks, good nite . Screenshot_52.png . midnight in calif, much later or earlier in other parts of the country.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by vermbird View Post
                            midnight in calif, much later or earlier in other parts of the country.
                            Yep, I answered your post at nearly 2am, my time (eastern).

                            Where did the needle land on the dial when you substituted a 45-ohm and a 100-ohm resistor?

                            Simply moving one adjustment arm won't render a good gauge reading. You need to adjust BOTH arms with each other as you check results using the resistors. The needle has an 'at rest stop' so that it cannot move beyond its limit, as I showed in my post.

                            I'm still laughing at your internet advice to, 'pull the needle up' to remove it. That will certainly destroy the gauge because it isn't a clock.

                            After calibrating the gauge, move on to the fuel tank sending unit. - Dave
                            My latest project:
                            CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                            "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                            --Lee Iacocca

                            From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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                            • #29
                              hi Dave, when i had the sender on my bench top i just put my ohm meter on it and moved the arm from full to empty. this gave me the resistance (with 200 ohm setting) . this was about 9 ohms at Full and 74 ohms at Empty. i didn't use any resistors to check if the sending unit worked properly. last night i gently moved the "gear" marked with the arrow, the same gear i moved when i played with it 2 months ago. i did not touch the "gear with the X marking. no electrical maneuvers were done for this adjustment. i don't understand where and how i will need to use resisters. my next step will be to temporarily hang the wired gauge on the dash, turn the key on and put the wired sender on the trunk floor and move the arm from E to F and see what happens
                              Attached Files

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                              • #30
                                i am in tears. hooked up the gauge with the 4 wires, yellow to fuel , red white to temp. black/green to other side of each gauge. turned on the key got 1/3 reading, not 3/4 as i would have expected with 3/4 of tank full. then some smoke came out from behind the gauges. turned off key. now no gauge movement. could not locate if i had melted a wire, looked around, took some insulation off the harness, no obvious damage. put voltmeter on green/black stripe, hot side and black lead to ground . no voltage. put test lamp on wire going from gauge to sensor in trunk, no flashing as before the incident. so i guess i blew the CVR or less likely the wire from the CVR to the gauges. then i put 3 volts in series(2, 1.5 volt batteries) to the fuel gauge and the gauge went to little more than 3/4 full. powered the temp gauge and it went to HOT. so i am down in the dumps. first shall i adjust the "arms/gears in photo above marked X and see if i can get the fuel gauge to move to full, when powered with the 3 volts? Dave said i should adjust both arms with resistors but i don't know how to do that. assuming i can get the gas gauge adjusted properly, then i will need to pull out the speedo and clock and check continuity from the CVR to the black/green stripe terminals. if continuity ok, i guess the CVR is blown and i will need to replace it or get it rebuilt by the expert Dave, when he is back on his feet and recovered. sorry to be such a pest but all this makes me want to put the car on Hemming's auctions or BAT (bring a trailer). lousy way to start the weekend

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