Headlight switch

[bird 60]

Hi guys, I tried to pull the headlight switch knob off a couple of days ago, pretty tight but came off. I put it back in as I wanted to see if it was removable. I tried to take it off today again but had to use more force and the knob along with the shaft came out. I pushed it back in but doesn't grip, gives the impression that a cir-clip was there but must have broken off. Can the switch be pulled apart and fixed or I should start looking for a new one? As to why, I wanted to spray paint all the knobs a different color.
Thank you.
Chris.....From OZ.

[del]

If you didn't use the knob release button described here https://squarebirds.org/images_headlight_switch/ you are probably looking at a new switch. Cheers!

[jopizz]

Don is correct, the knob and shaft come out as a unit when you push the release button. You can take the switch apart but most likely you broke the handle lock or worse the plastic. If you just bent the lock you may be able to fix it. As mentioned refer to the TRL article.

John

[bird 60]

Thank you Don and John. If only I knew about the release button.

[YellowRose]

Dave, John & I have, for years, said anyone who becomes a member of this Forum should certainly go through the Technical Resource Library (TRL). Many, many of the subjects that come up on this Forum can be found in it. Chris, I was surprised to see that you had not found that information in the TRL. The subject is covered very well by Dave as I remember, without looking at it, including great pix of the wiring, etc.. Good luck getting it fixed or replaced. Both Dave and John know this subject forwards and backwards...

[bird 60]

Hi Ray, I'm surprised with myself that I didn't look in the TRL. Ordinarily I try and do as much research as possible before attempting new areas but.
Chris.

[bird 60]

Hi, the new light switch arrived yesterday, ordered from Larry's. I looked at Rock Auto, but the part didn't look right. For those of you that have changed one in the past, what's the easiest way to remove and replace, from the bottom or by removing the Fuel-Temperature gauge.
Thank you.
Chris.....From OZ.

[jopizz]

I normally replace from the bottom. I haven't tried removing the fuel/temp gauge to get to it so that may be easier as long as the wires have enough slack.

John

[toddgilroy]

I have two aftermarket switches that I have been working with the last few days and have found that when the shaft seems to be stuck, turning the knob slowly in different directions while also putting some sideways or downward pressure on the shaft seems to help it release.

Has anyone encountered problems with the plastic plate with the two blade connectors on the “bottom” of the switch breaking apart easily? It seems the rivets may put too much pressure on the plastic. I had one break so I ordered a second switch and that broke…I learned to put some backup pressure on the blades to avoid that continuing to happen but was also determined to repair the broken plastic plate. A pretty good blob of JB Weld Clear Weld epoxy seemed to do the trick. I did confirm from their product specs that it is not conductive.

[bird 60]

I removed and replaced the Light switch yesterday. Even though it was my first attempt it was from the bottom. However, I also removed the Fuel and Temp Gauge so that I could see what I was doing. I was glad that I did because there were other wires in the way. It wasn't easy coming out as the wires were pretty hard not soft. I had to use quite a bit of force but perseverance got me there. I reckon I used more force getting it back in than taking it off. When the Switch came down with the loom I made sure that all the connectors were connected on the switch. Then I removed one and replaced in its place, then another one and so on. I made sure not to forget the 2 fuses in the back. I personally would recommend to remove the Fuel ad Temp gauge as it makes it a lot easier to see what you're doing, eg moving other wires out of the way as it is pretty tight there. Now, the good news is I've got lights but, my Fuel gauge and Temp Gauge aren't working, as well as the dome light from the switch. However it works opening and closing the doors. I made sure, as I marked the Fuel and Temp Gauge wires to go back the same way but I'll have to disconnect and have a look. As for the dome light not working by turning the knob, possibility with the struggle to put the switch back in the connector may have come off.

Chris.....From OZ.

[toddgilroy]

Do you have the green-yellow jumper from D and the black-blue wire connected to the two blades on the bottom (technically the side once it is installed)?

[bird 60]

Hi Todd, yes, that was done correctly. There's a possibility as stated that one of the connectors may have disconnected as it was a pain trying to fit the switch. Or maybe not, as they connect very tight.

Thanks.....Chris.

[jopizz]

Did you test it before you installed it in the dash. With the poor quality of the reproduction switches it's possible the dome light contacts are not working. As for the fuel/temp gauge the CVR wire goes on one connector of the gauge and the output wire on the other. It doesn't matter which side they go on. Just make sure the CVR is grounded to the instrument panel and the metal dash frame is grounded to the body of the car.

John

[bird 60]

Hi John, I did put the shaft into the new switch body before installing, to see how hard it would be to remove. It was on my desk and I had to fight with it to pull it out. So no, I didn't test it before in fear of not being able to remove it once installed with so little room to work with. As I pointed out to Todd, all the wires went back exactly the way they came out, one off replace, another one off replace, and so on. I agree with you about the after market stuff. I got mine from Larry's and even though they look identical there are no markings on it at all. The one that came off is a Formoco. The temperature has been in the mid 90f lately. When it cools down a bit I'll remove the Fuel and Temp Bezel and do some checking.

Thank you John.......Chris

[simplyconnected]

I'm somewhat puzzled by this thread. Yes, I realize that some of you did not read the instructions at first, which led to a broken Headlight Switch. This is not common but we've been here before so I laid out the switch parts showing why and how the switch works.

image.png

The bottom piece shows the 'release button' (in the middle just under the red line).
The middle piece shows the actual release. It is spring loaded and will only release the handle 'stick' when these parts align. Meaning, the stick must be in the 'pushed-in' position for the release button to work. When these parts are properly aligned, the handle releases quite easily. Forcing only serves to bend and break the components.

That little metal square in the middle 'slide' is the handle lock release with its spring. Here it is, broken, but you can see how it works:
image.png

Again, the handle must be pushed in all the way before pressing the release button. Only then can you feel the spring compressing and releasing the handle.
It's not complicated when you understand how the switch works. The switch works beautifully and there is never a need to take it apart. Look at the copper contacts, they look like brand new. - Dave