Shift Collar + Chrome Flange

[MIKEVOLMERT01]

I am replacing the shift collar, shift lever, chrome flange, detent plate and shift lever. (all are either worn or pitted)

How is this done without removing the plastic shift indicator and/or cutting the wire for the horn button? thinking through disassembly, seems the when the collar and flange are slid up the shaft tube to remove, that the plastic indicator and horn wire will block them from being removed. Does the horn button come loose from the plastic shift indicator?

Also, does the shift lever need to be removed from the collar before disassembly and vice versa - can it be installed into the collar before reinstallation?

Any tips on getting that roll pin out of the shift lever/collar?

thanks in advance for your direction.

[YellowRose]

Mike, click on the link in my signature element and or the link at the top of the Forum and go to the Technical Resource Library (TRL). You should find detailed instructions there on how to do all of this.

[MIKEVOLMERT01]

I had searched the trl before i posted the questions, but my search results were detent plate posts. Didn't see anything about the collar or chrome flange replacement procedure relative to the plastic indicator plate or horn button wire.

[jopizz]

This is the most descriptive write up we have. https://www.squarebirds.org/detent_installation.htm
I don't know what else anyone can tell you. As for the shift lever it is the first thing to be removed and the last to be installed. Move the shifter down to the L position. That will give you the best access to the roll pin. Just use a punch to knock it out and reinstall it. If you are also replacing the shift collar it's easier to cut the horn wire and reattach it afterward. Other than that you would need to fish the wire through the steering column.

John

[MIKEVOLMERT01]

thank you. that helps a lot.

[MIKEVOLMERT01]

and that is the post I read carefully. your response regarding the wire and shift lever clears it all up for me....thanks again.

[jopizz]

You're welcome. Getting the shift lever back in can be a little tricky. You kind of have to pull it towards you and push it in at the same time to clear the detent plate.

John

[MIKEVOLMERT01]

is it okay to put a little grease on the shaft? the switch is very sticky and seems to bind at the bezel. thinking a little grease on the shaft could help? or is that a bad idea for an electric switch?

Also, my switch is missing the long fuse on the back of the switch. What does the long fuse support? If i should install a fuse, what amp goes in the long spot?

[jopizz]

Are you talking about the headlight switch? You can put some dielectric grease on the shaft but it may not do any good. The switch can be taken apart and cleaned. It just may be sludged up internally. Here's how to take it apart and repair it. https://squarebirds.org/images_headlight_switch/

As for the long fuse it is a SFE 7.5 fuse.

John

[MIKEVOLMERT01]

I'm reading that the long fuse is for power from the battery to the switch. But my switch/lights were working before I discovered the missing fuseI am in the process of refreshing my guages and replacing light bulbs and took the switch loose for access and to consider a rheostat repair. Switch is already jumper'ed to bypass the rheostat. . Does that make sense that the lights/switch would work with that fuse missing?

[jopizz]

You didn't read that correctly. The fuse is POWERED by the battery not the other way around. It powers the "A" terminal of the switch. From the link I sent you.
"A" is fused and it powers the Stop Light Sw., Backup portion of the Neutral Sw., Glove Box Switch, Clock.

John

[MIKEVOLMERT01]

okay - thanks, that actually also answers my question about what the fuse supports being the brake lights (another problem I WAS going put to the forum.
Sorry this post strayed around so much. And Thanks again. I will not bother the forum for another week or so......

My poor reading habit showed itself.

I skimmed these statements:
Looking at the long fuse holder... It is fed from the "B" threaded post and feeds the rest of the headlight switch.
"B" is direct power from the BATTERY at the starter solenoid. It feeds the long fuse on the back and a short jumper wire feeds the Key Switch.


but my mind read the last statement as:
"B" is direct power from the BATTERY at the starter solenoid. It feeds the long fuse on the back and Switch.

My poor reading eliminated:
a short jumper wire feeds the Key