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Kel's '59 restoration

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  • #61
    Originally posted by bygrace View Post
    Kel, That's a lot of good work going into your Bird.
    Question: Are you going to do ball joints? I ask because with it up in the air, and without any engine weight, you won't be able to use the 'easy and safe' floor jack method of releasing the spring pressure. I saw it recommended on this site, and it worked really well.
    I think I have also read on here where others managed to find a spring compressor that worked. Might be worth looking that up. Maybe one of the experts can find it for reference purposes.
    Either way, keep on keepin' on.
    Funny you ask....

    yes, doing ball joints. Was a little tricky removing lower arms and springs. Lucky for me, there was very little load on them, they popped a little, but they were secured. I have a spring compressor, but was to darn difficult to get it to fit. Looking at them with them out, I think I can get the compressor on correctly with it out, so hopefully assembly will be ok? I'll let ya know....however, bigger problem. I cannot remove ball joint from lower arm....did tie rod ball joint fork tool, bent the crap out of it and wore me out to get the tool loose, then put torch on it, then did torch/cooling method, then put it in press, just bent the steel rod I used to push. Definitely open for suggestions here...
    Last edited by 68blackbird; September 13th, 2021, 09:51 PM.

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    • #62
      Wow, you're past any point I've ever been at. Never tried your sequence.
      Let's see.... I've seen the threaded tool work well. It expands in length between the upper and lower ball joints. But it only works when the two ball joints are still in place in the car. I think it's shown in the shop manual.
      I have seen mechanics just use two large hammers. One to hit the boss surrounding the ball joint the other to back-up the blow. Apparently it momentarily distorts the hole, releasing the taper.

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      • #63
        I don't know what to suggest. I've always just used a pickle fork and a large hammer and it always does the trick. However I've always done it with the arm still on the car and the spring in place so maybe that helps.

        John
        John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

        Thunderbird Registry #36223
        jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

        https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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        • #64
          Originally posted by jopizz View Post
          I don't know what to suggest. I've always just used a pickle fork and a large hammer and it always does the trick. However I've always done it with the arm still on the car and the spring in place so maybe that helps.

          John
          I started out that way....I even had a heavy pipe over the fork to slam on. I quit because I was afraid I was going to knock the car off the stands...10lb sledge hammer....crazy. Took it off to try using my press...its coming off, somehow , someway...

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          • #65
            Do you have an angle to get a pneumatic hammer on it?

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            • #66
              Did you try "Two hammers on the boss, not the stud."?

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              • #67
                No luck with air hammer & fork...no luck with 2 hammers on the boss. Going to take to my buddy who works on school buses, he's used to using big hammers, if he can't break it loose, it ain't looseable .

                Did manage to work on upper arms, everythings apart, cleaned up...mostly. Going to take to same buddy and bead blast rest of control arms areas I couldn't reach.

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                • #68
                  Maybe you can try cutting it where it goes into the spindle and using a vise or drill press to press out the stud?

                  John
                  John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                  Thunderbird Registry #36223
                  jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

                  https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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