Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Manually Unlatching Convertible Trunk Lid from Wheel Well Access

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • byersmtrco
    replied
    Actually. The 58-59 is pretty good.
    Pretty bullet proof as long as those actuators pop.
    Keep them jumper cables under the pass seat !
    If that battery is dead. You are NOT getting into
    that trunk.

    Leave a comment:


  • Burnflatham
    replied
    I agree!
    Regrettably, I think a big reason the 58-60 CVT birds don't get the love they deserve is because of the top mechanism. Same reason 57-59 Galaxie convertibles are far more desirable then retractables.

    Leave a comment:


  • byersmtrco
    replied
    Does the service manual have a fail safe
    way ? I know with the 60,it says to undo
    the latch’s from the wheel well then drop
    the gas tank and undo the rams from
    the bottom of the trunk.


    After you get it open, would it be poss
    to make those latches cable operated.
    I saw a video of a white 59 that had
    Looked like it had cables and no
    solenoids.
    I really don’t know WHAT Ford was
    thinking with this. The syst fails and
    you can’t get the trunk opened. Where
    the spare is, or your luggage. It happened
    to allot of theses cars when they were new.
    mine was a little over 10 yrs old the 1st
    time it stopped working. Thankfully it
    Was hyd not electrical. The screw latch’s
    have always worked. Takes 3 men and
    a mule to get that lid open w/o hyd asst.

    Leave a comment:


  • Burnflatham
    replied
    I have been traveling for business, I will post results (hopefully results) as soon as I can get to the car. Thanks for checking in.

    Leave a comment:


  • partsetal
    replied
    What kind of results did you get from powering up the blue wire at the relay on the inner fender?
    Carl

    Leave a comment:


  • Burnflatham
    replied
    Thanks. Good thought, worth a try.

    Leave a comment:


  • OUR5T8BIRD
    replied
    If you can get a screwdriver in there, perhaps you could also get a small 1/4 drive socket and extension in there to reach the two cap crews on the locks bracket if solenoids are seized ..

    Leave a comment:


  • Burnflatham
    replied
    Thank you John, really great info!

    Leave a comment:


  • jopizz
    replied
    Make sure you check the relay in the engine compartment. It's located on the passenger side inner fender well near the hood latch. If that is bad you will get no power to the solenoids. You can jumper the plug to bypass the relay. The blue wire in the plug goes to the solenoids. Try putting 12V directly to that wire.

    John
    Last edited by jopizz; February 22nd, 2021, 12:25 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sherman
    replied
    "I believe one "yellow" wire goes to the left solenoid and then a second wire jumps the right solenoid." I was wrong about this.

    Leave a comment:


  • Burnflatham
    replied
    Great info, thx. I am not at the car now, so not sure on the status of the release button, good knowing the power to the switch is hot and I can just bypass if necessary.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sherman
    replied
    My ignition does not need to be "on" to release the solenoids, however the release button is slotted for a key that I have never tampered with. I'm not sure if the key would prevent the button from being pressed or if would still press in but not allow the voltage to pass through it.

    Either way, rigging something up directly from a 12V source to bypass the switch would be a good start.

    If this test fails you may want to use the manual to find the wire that goes to solenoids closest to the trunk--and jump it there.

    I believe one "yellow" wire goes to the left solenoid and then a second wire jumps the right solenoid.

    Leave a comment:


  • Burnflatham
    replied
    Thanks for the comments. I have sprayed the lock mechanisms through the access holes the best I could. I do not see any access from behind the seat. No keys for the car, but can attempt electrical power,

    Leave a comment:


  • Sherman
    replied
    Since both sides are not functioning, can you test the release switch under the dash, and possibly isolate the problem. I've seen these solenoids looking like they are in the worst shape ever but they still engage/disengage. Can you rig something up to get 12v directly to the solenoids and bypass other electrical issues?

    When they do engage I've found the "rolling lock mechanism" to be more of an issue rather than the solenoids. However, the rolling lock mechanism usually clears up with PB blaster.

    If power is getting to the solenoids when you press the release button you will hear them "hum."

    Next, the latches they catch on the inside of the trunk are adjustable (up and down). I would think that if they are set to the lowest adjustment this would make it more difficult for the solenoid to disengage especially after not functioning for many years.

    I forgot the answer to this next question, but if you take out the back seat is there any additional access to the trunk area??

    Leave a comment:


  • Burnflatham
    replied
    Thx. I’ll try again.The plunger appears to be frozen.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X