Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Simplyconnected- R&P ?’s

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Simplyconnected- R&P ?’s

    YellowRose was kind enough to dig up some info on rack & pinion swaps. You reposted a picture of a gentleman’s swap. Unfortunately none of the others will open (I’m guessing old server situation etc) would you have happened to save any more or have some from your own swap? Also, I know you basically state use any OTC R&P. Any particular one better than the other? Anything after your experience, you would have done different?
    What I can see is plates on either sides of the frame 1/4” steel, a square bar to attach the R&P, is there a specific aspect of geometry i should be aware of? Do you think a power rack is necessary due to the weight of these Birds or could I consider a manual rack? Are there any issues with the oil pan?
    After this insight, I feel this is all very doable and just as good as a full replacement IFS will have more questions as I move along but would like to gather as much info in one place to keep it simple. Thank you!!

  • #2
    Are the tie rods you mention specific to the Tbird? And you purchased an R&P for a Corsica correct?
    Last edited by R91488; October 30th, 2019, 04:17 PM.

    Comment


    • #3
      A caviler rack and pinion is what you are looking for. No tube is needed, just a L bracket on each rail. I built mine to use all the original tie rod ends to and keep the steering geometry as stock as possible. Somewhere I have posted some pictures of this setup. Will see if I can find them.

      Comment


      • #4
        Let's see if I can post some pictures. The first thing I fabricated were two frame rail brackets. Then, I cut my steering column and added a nylon bushing for the steering wheel shaft. The rest came from speedwaymotors.com. The 3/4" shafts are all Borgeson double-'D' with setscrews (like the pictured example) and NO welding.

        It's important to note, my rack gear attaches the tie rods from the center, NOT from the ends of the rack gear. This setup resembles the original drag link design (that uses long tie rod assemblies, connected to spindles on long control arms) to eliminate bump steering. Also, the number of joints (pitman arm, idler arm, drag link, etc.) has been reduced for tighter control. - Dave

        --steeringDD.jpg

        DSCN4951.jpgDSCN4953.jpgDSCN4954.jpgDSCN4955.jpgDSCN4956.jpg
        My latest project:
        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
        --Lee Iacocca

        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

        Comment


        • #5
          I have made contact this morning with Mike Bazzone ~ Mbazzone! Here is what he told me. His 1958 Squarebird is being sold and he will no longer own it and is no longer active on our Forum. He also told me that it was not him personally who did all the engine conversion, R&P and other work on his Tbird. It was all done by: Tubby's Customs, St. Petersburg, FL. Tubby's is a Ford Specialist who works only on Fords. Mike gave me the information regarding them, including the link to 130 pictures Tubby's has posted of their work on his Tbird. Here is their website.

          https://www.tubbyscustoms.com

          Here is the link to Mike's Tbird, and with this link it allows you to click through all 130 pictures one at a time and brings up a fairly big picture of each. Just click on Next to see the next pictures.

          https://www.tubbyscustoms.com/apps/p...toid=192412225

          If you have a browser that supports this, you can view it as a Slideshow.

          https://www.tubbyscustoms.com/apps/p...bumid=15578154

          The links above will give you even more pictures than he posted. If you do not plan on doing your own work, then, as Mike did, you may want to contact Tubby's. Mike had the car shipped there, had it overhauled completely and all modifications made there.
          Last edited by YellowRose; November 1st, 2019, 02:49 PM.

          Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
          The Terminator.....
          Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or Call (Cell) 210-875-1411

          https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

          Comment


          • #6
            Thank you guys!! Awesome you made it a sticky!!! I thought I had lost the post at first. This is perfect. I am very close to getting the motor/trans out most likely next week, have to work this weekend. I like the center tie rod attachment, good thought put into this.
            I might go with an aftermarket steering column as I am 6’3” and I just have such a hard time getting in and out I was anticipating a steering wheel swap if the moving the seats back an inch or two on a fix I read in another post would be comfortable enough.

            Comment


            • #7
              Dave, So I have the Rack now with the insulators (rubber bushings) I am looking at U bolts and steel, The insulators are 2" I am thinking should I go with 3" or 4" width steel? Also I saw you used a specific inner tie rod is that one for the Caviler or did you use another brand? Did you go by the length desired etc.? For the outer tie rods did you use factory or follow through with the same brand of the inners you went with? I'm just trying to not do the "trial and error" method :-). Thank you

              Comment


              • #8
                I used Ford outer tie rod ends that turn directly into those long rods that you see in the pictures. I also use heim joints for my inner tie rods (that bolt to the rack gear. So to clairify, my long tie rods simply have a tapped hole in both ends. This eliminates the traditional sleeves. The outer tie rod screws into the long rod with a jam nut. The other end of the same tie rod accepts a heim joint that screws in with a jam nut. So, all the parts are X2.

                I bought the heim joints and long rods from speedwaymotors.com. Exactly which ones? I don't remember but you can measure, then call speedway and order the rods (also called 'tubes'). When considering your measurements, leave enough threads on each end for adjustment, in and out.

                Let's say your two outer tie rods are MOOG ES416L which is, 11/16-18 LEFT HAND (jor counterclockwise) threads.
                You want the two inner heim joints to also be 11/16-18 RIGHT HAND threads like this speedway part number: 1750128.
                Once you mock-up the ends, call speedway to order two identical rods and two sets of jam nuts (four total), both with RH and LH threads. - Dave
                My latest project:
                CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                --Lee Iacocca

                From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thank you Dave!! I started putting together a cart at speedway. Can you give me an idea of the “knuckles” and that Heim joint and bracket you have for the steering connections. If I spend 30$ more dollars I get free shipping so why not get it all and start the fabrication. Mainly the sizes and is there a bar between knuckles that the Heim joint is on etc. thank you again!! Also did you fabricate the steering column bushing/bearing or start with something that can be purchased?
                  Robert

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I can show you a closer picture of what I have:

                    Conveniently, all shaft sizes are 3/4" and 'double D' except the rack gear is splined. It's a standard thing that speedway carries. I can't remember where I got the short length of rod in the middle. It may have come from the part I cut off of my steering wheel shaft.
                    I made my 'double D' cuts with an angle grinder but I made sure they were precise with no slop using bluing layout ink.
                    I fabricated the column bushing from nylon. Some guys use fancy bearings or sleeves but if you think about it, the steering shaft doesn't move very much so nylon works well. - Dave
                    My latest project:
                    CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                    "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                    --Lee Iacocca

                    From: Royal Oak, Michigan

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      You were talking about switching to an aftermarket steering column. If this is something you are still thinking about then you should do it now or you will end up building the new linkage twice.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Derbird View Post
                        You were talking about switching to an aftermarket steering column. If this is something you are still thinking about then you should do it now or you will end up building the new linkage twice.
                        Yes I was thinking the same thing, thank you! I also considered I might only have to swap out the knuckle from the column and maybe need to re-fab a shaft from the column knuckle to the rack knuckle. I need to slow down a bit and plan things out, still have to pull the steering box and begin building the brackets. Work has not been in my favor either LOL I am in a new training program and seem to call me in whenever they want to train. So trying to fit in time to "play" has been challenging.

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X