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Select Aire blower switch

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  • Select Aire blower switch


    IMG_20191024_175204.jpg anyone out there have one for sale? I tried to fix mine and, as usual, I need another one.

  • #2
    I have one Ray , tested and working . It is from a '58 and still complete with the switch housing if that is of any help to you . There was also a rheostat ( high and low speed ) , in the box but not sure if it is for the '58/'60 birds .

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    • #3
      What I need looks exactly like that pic. 3 wires going to the back. That's really great. What do you want for it, shipped to Portland 97217?

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      • #4
        Will remove it and find a box to get shipping etc. Will send you a pm .

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        • #5

          I installed a new used switch. High speed works, low doesn't. Meter says no power from switch on low at the firewall/motor, fine on high. The wire looks fine at both ends and its in the factory wrap. I checked continuity and it's solid on the orange (low speed) wire. I jumped the motor at the 2 to 1 at the firewall from battery and it comes on through both terminals. Makes no sense that switch doesn't send low power but meter says there's a solid wire. My old switch gave the same readings as the new used switch.
          So it shows no current on low speed but high works fine at the motor. Installed another switch, same result....

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          • #6
            Did you check for continuity on the new switch before you put it in. Just set your meter to ohms with an audible signal. Touch one probe to the center post and put the other probe on one of the outer posts and move the switch to that side. You should get a tone. Do the same on the other outer post. If you get continuity on both outer posts then the switch is good. If not then the switch is bad. Two way switches are easy to test. Test from the switch out when you suspect that the switch may be bad. Not from the motor or harness. Always test the switch with no wires attached first.

            John
            John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

            Thunderbird Registry #36223
            jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

            https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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            • #7
              PO said he did that but it's good place for me to start. I'll do it tomorrow. Thanks

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              • #8
                The switch works. The wires to the motor seem to be fine using my meter. It doesn't have a audible signal but the meter shows full current (continuity) guess it has to be the motor. I haven't removed it yet. It's has AC, 1960HT

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                • #9

                  Guy at Bird Nest said it should be a 3 wire because it has AC. There's power to and a ground screwed to the frame.

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                  • #10
                    Not sure if this is accurate Ray but in the work shop manual on page 24, group 12 ,it shows the electric schematic for the control circuit with A/C . It shows a ' slow speed resistor in the red wire somewhere in the line from the switch to the motor .

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                    • #11
                      Thanks, I see that now. One of the easier wiring schematics I've found. If the resistor is bad, where is it located? I tested the low speed wire and it showed it was a complete circuit. IMG_20191106_180452.jpg I'll recheck both wires tomorrow, it's cold out tonight

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                      • #12
                        Whenever I troubleshoot electrical circuits (except shorts), I always start at the END, and work towards the power source. In your case, the end is your motor.

                        Is your motor a 2-wire or a 3-wire? The motor in the drawing is a 2-wire (power and ground). The orange wire supplies full +12. The red wire limits the current through a resistor, then they splice it to the orange motor wire. The resistor location should be close to the motor, not the switch because it may become very warm or hot.

                        Three-wire motors have separate field windings for different speeds and NO resistor. Older Ford blower motors (and power window motors) use them but troubleshooting is similar. These are not permanent magnet motors. They have an armature and field(s) that are connected inside the motor. Reversing the polarity will not change direction of the motor unless it has magnets inside. If you're game, go ahead and try it.

                        Let's begin troubleshooting... Put your meter on VOLTS. Connect one prod to a good ground.
                        With the dash switch on LOW speed and the key on, test the orange motor lead. Normally, the motor should be turning with these settings.
                        If you have +12, that's great.
                        If you have some low voltage, like 5 or 6, find the resistor by following the wire towards the firewall. Check voltage on BOTH sides of the resistor. One end is the power side and the other end is the load side. Is the resistor hot to the touch? If so, the motor may be too hard to turn or the brushes inside are gummy.
                        If the resistor is bad, or open, you should measure +12 volts on the power side, ZERO volts on the load side and the resistor will be cool.

                        Sometimes I like using a light for testing voltage. It can be made from a dash light (#57) with two long-ish leads. The bulb IS a load that will shine different brightness for different resistances. In other words, you can see a very bright +12 volts and a much dimmer 6 volts. This 'tester' can be made with a simple length of speaker wire soldered to the bulb. The cost is nothing. You can get fancy and include alligator clips but in this case, I would tin both ends and put the ground end under a bolt. I also use this wire for finding wires shorted to ground. How? Pull the blown fuse and replace it with both leads wrapped around a small wooden stick. The final diameter should be 1/4" and the length should match the fuse length. A grounded wire will make your bulb shine. Start pulling bullet connectors in that circuit. When the light goes out, you're on the right path. I've followed wires all the way to a license plate light socket that was corroded. - Dave
                        My latest project:
                        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                        --Lee Iacocca

                        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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                        • #13
                          Wow, that's some great ideas. Thank you.Apparantly, I have a 2 wire motor although Bird Nest said AC is 3 wire and mine has factory AC. Is this the resistor? It disintegrated on me.
                          IMG_20191107_080529.jpgIMG_20191106_160157.jpg

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Ratboy View Post
                            Is this the resistor? It disintegrated on me.
                            No. That's the thermostatic switch for the compressor clutch. The resistor is in the wiring harness between the blower switch and the motor.

                            John
                            John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                            Thunderbird Registry #36223
                            jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

                            https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                            • #15
                              John, Is this what he's looking for? It was mounted on the bottom of the blower motor chamber.

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