Eric's 1960 T-Bird

[jopizz]

Red wire on solenoid is hot only when launching the starter motor. Is that correct? YES
I did not started the engine as I need to make sure the condensor goes well on voltage regulator's ARM post. YES

How can I get voltage anywhere in the car with no battery.
Is there an explanation or is that pure witchcraft?

I'm sure there's a technical explanation somewhere. Obviously opening the door is completing the circuit and supplying enough ground to light the test light. You don't need much voltage for it to light.

[Eric S]

Regarding this condenser. Car has a "modern" radio. I assume it was installed to help with the radio?? The radio was working fine.

I am pretty sure, based on my pre-disassembly pictures, that the wire was on the ARM post of the Voltage Regulator.
Condensor is held in place by one of the screws holding the regulator on the fender. I checked the condensor body for ground and it's weak (condensor body has been painted) as I don't have a solid continuity signal to the car's body.
The ARM post is grounded.
Does that mean that this condensor is grounded on both end and hence completely useless?
If yes should I install the condensor's wire on BATT and clean off the paint to get a solid ground on the body. (Does the body has to be grounded?)
Or just discard this condensor?
Is a condensor doing the same job as a voltage regulator?

Today I checked ground on POST, FIELD and BATT. All 3 where grounded. Battery disconnected.
Then I plug in the battery and the BATT was 12V. Removed the battery and I can't get it grounded anymore (no 12V either). Is that "loaded" and need time to settle back and connect back to the ground?

[simplyconnected]

Eric, what kind of tester are you using? When the car's battery is disconnected, NOTHING should work. There is no other power source unless you are using an ohm meter or continuity light instead of a voltage tester. Continuity testers have a small battery and a lamp in them. Voltage testers only have a lamp with two wires. I like using a 'lamp-type' voltage tester because I can see how strong the lamp lights, showing a lot of voltage or very little.

The best voltage tester is one that draws a load, NOT an LED type tester. I make my own using a simple dashboard lamp (#57). For testing my battery's health, I use a spare headlight with two long wires and allegator clips on the ends. So, that is TWO voltage testers. I also use them for chasing grounds.

The condenser for your voltage regulator is exactly the same as your ignition condenser. They are .22uf. For testing, you can leave the condenser off of your voltage regulator but don't forget to replace it later. ALL condensers need a solid ground. The voltage regulator's condenser connects to the ARMature and ground. The condenser's purpose is to smooth out voltage spikes. They are usually placed close to contacts that open and close so those contacts will last longer AND by the way, the secondary purpose is to suppress radio interference.

The body and your engine both need a good solid ground. I normally connect a #6 AWG stranded copper wire to my battery negative, then strap the middle of it down to the fender apron, and continue it to the bell housing, without cutting the wire. The starter motor draws the most current so it makes sense to connect the ground as close to the starter motor as practical. Modern cars use a separate, short wire from the battery negative to the body to feed all the lights and accessories.

Your starter solenoid has two large terminals. The large post on the right (closest to the small 'I' terminal) should have only ONE wire. It feeds the starter motor. The large post on the left (closest to the small 'S' terminal) should connect to the battery and all of your accessories (usually many wires). I describe it this way because colors mean nothing to me as they may have been changed over may decades.

Follow these instructions then get back to us. - Dave

[Eric S]

Dave,
Sorry I did not came back on this electrical question but all works now and I have been struggling with my Ford big block engine since then.
I moved the 60 out of the lift to leave place for the Cobra that should receive the BB.
On the 60, for some time I noticed a drop of oil on the floor under the power steering pump. I can't tell for sure where I have a leak but can't be anything but the PS pump, maybe between the 2 halves.

Question is how difficult is it to overhaul the pump (mainly replacing the gasket between the 2 pump's halves) and is it worth the trouble for a tiny leak?
Of course it won't stop by itself and probably will become worst but don't want to open another pandora box!

[jopizz]

The pump is very easy to rebuild. Most likely the leak is from the shaft seal. Refer to the shop manual to see what's involved. The most important thing is installing the shaft the correct way so as to not ruin the new seal. The leak will get worse if it's the shaft seal so you can only put it off for so long. The other possibilities for the leak are the high pressure hose fitting or the o-rings where the reservoir meets the pump.

John

[Eric S]

I had a closer look.
The reservoir is oily
Top of shaft is a mix of oil and what I see as belt dust.
No more oil under the shaft.
Wondering if cover is leaking.
No obvious leak from hose or reservoir/pump junction.
I cleaned as I could so I may be able to see where it actually comes from.