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Eric's 1960 T-Bird

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  • I thought the plate was an indicator. It's roughly in the middle. On another car I've been told to keep the level on the middle. If it's overfiled it will evacuate anyway. Isn't it a way to regulate?

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    • I used the car for the first time on a wet day unfortunately. A friend came with me and was surprised by the comfort, the power and how this big car can take corners.
      I just noticed that I do not have anymore the return on the signal and the horns works only on the left of the steering wheel and not the right when wheel is straight and when turning the steering wheel I am loosing the horns completely.
      Is that possible that the steering column might be too low and away from the steering wheel.With the turn signal lever being off the return collar and the horn being a bit too far too?
      I may try but I need to get an help to tighten the screws while I pull on the column.

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      • It is possible that the steering column has slipped down a bit and is not making full contact with the turn signal and horn connections. Yes, you will need someone to tighten the screws once you pull up on the column and see if both the turn signal and the horn are working properly. If they do, hold onto that steering wheel while someone tightens the screws, and check the turn signal and horn again. However, that may not fix the problem, and it is possible that you may have to get into the steering column as if you were going to change the detent plate out, and fix what is causing the mis-connection at that point... But try pulling up the steering column first..

        Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
        The Terminator.....
        Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or Call (Cell) 210-875-1411

        https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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        • How can I tell if I need to make some Band Adjustment per manual 6-2-3 page 6-12?

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          • Anybody knows if the door's front rails came lined with some kind of material from the factory?

            Eric
            Attached Files

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            • yes they did. You can buy new rails with the proper material inside. They are riveted to the vent window frame.
              http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

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              • I would like to keep original rails and glue in some material. Unless working on rear rails stop the noise of the windows in the rails...

                Something different how do we remove the grease nipple on the steering column. It's round !?
                Attached Files
                Last edited by Eric S; September 27th, 2019, 10:29 AM.

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                • Anybody knows if the door's REAR rails came lined with some kind of material from the factory?

                  Eric

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                  • Originally posted by Eric S View Post
                    Anybody knows if the door's REAR rails came lined with some kind of material from the factory?

                    Eric
                    Yes, they were lined with felt.

                    John
                    John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                    Thunderbird Registry #36223
                    jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

                    https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                    • You can get the felt from most Bird suppliers. Got mine from Birdnest, Contact cement worked great

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                      • On the front, is it easy to replace the whole rail (rivets) or gluing felt is just easier and cheaper and works well?

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                        • you need to replace the front rails
                          http://www.tbirdregistry.com/viewdat...ryNumber=33517

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                          • I glued the felt in the rears and replaced the rails in the front. The riveting of the front rails was a tough one for me. It's a tight and shallow fit for a standard rivet gun. Maybe someone has some advise on that aspect, I wasn't super pleased with my results

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                            • Here's a rivet stand I made out of 3/8 bar and a piece of 2X2 I had. You insert the rivets (supplied when you buy the channel) through the channel so it pokes out the back side of the frame. Set the channel on the stand with the rivet head on the stand top. Then you peen it over with a hammer and tool. The tool (seen in the background) comes out of a leather goods rivet set. Really cheap at the craft store. You need a helper to do it this way.

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                              • I've been able to add a temporary extension to the standard pop rivet gun to rivet these window channels. I cut a 1/4" piece of brake line tubing, and after putting the pop rivet by itself into the drilled hole, slipped the piece of tubing over the pop rivet nail and then placed the rivet gun over the nail. The nail is long enough so that it can still be gripped by the gun. Works for a few rivets and then it deforms and you have to make another.
                                Carl

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