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  • #16
    The canister portion of the valve has no fluid in it, only electrical parts, and corrosion is what is retaining the plunger. Turn it upside down and soak the plunger barrel w/penetrating oil, let it soak. Then, by hand, slam the upright valve down on a wood surface. What you are trying to do is jar the plunger loose so that it moves down without damaging the barrel. Any movement is good and success is when you get to where it moves freely. It is a slow process and not every one will free up. When you do get it free, power it up and add some penetrating oil to the valve chamber and work it some more with 12v. Clean it all up, replace the wire if needed and re-assemble. Good Luck, Carl
    If you find simpler ways to free it up, please let us know.

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    • #17
      A word of warning: Keep all petroleum products FAR away from DOT-3 brake fluid, including brake cleaner.
      If you have to use penetrating oil, use plenty of alcohol afterward to clean and wash out the oil. Petroleum bloats seals meant for DOT-3 and mixing oil with it produces a nasty gel that is tough to clean out.

      If your system came with DOT-3 (Glycol-based) fluid, you can switch to transmission oil but again, you need to wash and flush out all the brake fluid with alcohol. We run into this with folks who want to switch to DOT-5 (silicone-based) brake fluid. DOT-3 and DOT-5 do not mix. DOT-3 and petroleum products don't mix either. DOT-3, being a Glycol base, dissolves in plain water, like antifreeze. So, if you spill DOT-3 on your paint, pull out the garden hose and simply hose it off. - Dave
      My latest project:
      CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

      "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
      --Lee Iacocca

      From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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      • #18
        Thanks for the good advice, fellas! Will let you know how it works out.

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