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  • jopizz
    replied
    I would just leave it in place. With no vacuum going to it it should not have much resistance.

    John

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  • YellowRose
    replied
    Jim, when Howard and I did our dual MS/Dual 8" Power Booster conversion, we just left our KH unit under the dash alone. I do not remember if we disconnected the vacuum hose to it. Perhaps John ~ jopizz can shed some light on whether or not you should. I think... we might have left it hooked up, but am not sure... That has been many years ago now...

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  • yurky58
    replied
    Hi Folks: I'm installing dual master cylinder/ 8" power brake booster in my 58". Wanting to do know do I leave the old booster in place (mounted inside) and just disconnect vacuum hoses to it, or will there to much resistance with new booster? Thanks for any help.

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  • tbird430
    replied
    Yes, I was referring to the plain steel wheels.

    -Jon in TX

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  • del
    replied
    I used these. They were on a 90's Ranger at a local bone yard but aftermarket I guess? Had some grinding to do on the calipers to get everything to fit properly.

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  • StealthSRT10
    replied
    Originally posted by tbird430 View Post
    I like my drum brakes. I just always try to over anticipate what might happen in front of me. I allow more space and time to react. I do hate the fact that from time to time my Bird will pull left/right slightly....

    I though someone on here said they used 14" steel wheels off a 1999-ish Ford Ranger? They bolted right on, cleared calipers, held the stock hubcaps, & were plentiful in the salvage yards....
    i use the ranger rims but still have the drums

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  • simplyconnected
    replied
    I love it, Grant...
    Good work! - Dave

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  • ncbird
    replied
    steering arm stop

    Well I have dropped all the steering so i can send the cylinder, control valve and steering box out to Red Head
    steering in Seattle. They built the box in my F250 and are big with the superduty crowd. With that done it was simple to get my steering stops installed. I turned the wheels till the arm hit and marked the current stop. I then drilled and tapped a 5/16 hole in the current stop. With that done I can screw in a bolt with a nut to lock it down. My new stop is adjustable and will allow me to get as much as possible and still avoid the rub. This appears to be a problem only with the Granada/Versailles spindles.
    Attached Files

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  • ncbird
    replied
    offer

    Thanks for the offer Dave, I do wish we were closer. I bought a baby mig a while back just for this kind of project. It is a 120v so I can take it to the car. My other mig is 240 and a beast. I will take a look at an adjustable. stop along the lines of jeep first.

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  • simplyconnected
    replied
    BINGO!
    So, I'm thinking... if your OEM spindle arms were too high, the tires would scrape as well. Ok, that's why stops are absolutely necessary.

    I really like the idea that the arms are shorter because they are more responsive to steering wheel motion, with fewer turns lock-to-lock. The down side is, you need more power steering boost in parking lots. Even so, I would prefer the shorter arms because they are more compatible with rack and pinion gears.

    Glad you got this mystery solved, Grant. Maybe you can have a small 'tab' welded to the existing stops. If we were closer I would weld them for you. - Dave

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  • ncbird
    replied
    observations

    Pulled a stock spindle and checked the stop on the steering arm. Crawled under the car (its on jack stands) and have the following observations. The steering arms on the Versailles are shorter and sit higher in relation to the lower A frame. When turned hard over my arms don't touch the stop on the A frame. This allows the wheel to turn far enough for the scoop to hit the sway bar. In fact I can get the tire to touch the bar. I have the aftermarket HD sway bar for reference. I will be building stops. Hope I didn't muddy the water but thanks Dave.
    Grant

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  • ncbird
    replied
    mmmmm interesting

    Dave may be on to the problem. I will look at my stock set of spindles in the shop and see if I can make a determinaion on the stops. Eric what is rubbing? is it the inner dust shield against the rotor and is it at the bottom of the shield or can you tell? My scoops are rubber and pop right out so if that is the problem I can rectify it.
    Grant
    Ps one thing leads to another. Went to put the self adjusters on the back and didn't like the job a shop had done on the brakes. I now have new drums, brake shoes, all the springs, while you have it apart led to new axle bearings and seals. But hey I know what is in there now.

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  • simplyconnected
    replied
    Granada spindles are wonderful. I have never heard one complaint about their strength or performance. They fit a host of Ford cars and decades of history proved that Ford got disk brakes 'right the first time'. Aftermarket companies reproduce these 'Mustang' spindles, today. They also have no clue as to how many classic Fords these spindles fit.

    I installed them on our '55 Customline, which have slightly different and very LONG lower "A" arms. I used the Granada back plates with the elephant ear air scoops.

    Our '55 is a full size Ford Fordor with a very long wheelbase and a full frame. The car came with 15" tires. Fairlanes came with 16" wheels as std equipment.

    1955 was a transitional period in Ford Car history:
    It was the last year Ford used 6 volt, POS ground.
    Thunderbird was introduced in '55 (on a full-size Ford frame).
    Fairlane (with the iconic 'check mark' on the side) was introduced in '55.

    Our '59 Galaxie has the same spindles as Squarebirds. I kept those spindles and retrofit Scarebird brackets in place of the OEM drum setup. I would have used Granada spindles but I couldn't find a set cheaper than the Scarebird brackets at the time. - Dave

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  • DKheld
    replied
    Dave - that's something I hadn't really considered. Could just limit the range of the spindles so they don't get to the point where the rotor scrapes. I'll bet the Granada and Tbird limit bumps were not in the same place. It takes "40 Acres" to turn this thing around already so would like to find another solution if possible but thanks for the idea.

    Your Galaxie has Granada spindles doesn't it? Don't the Tbird and Galaxie share the same upper and lower A-arms? Do you have the backing plates have you ever noticed your rotors scraping them in sharp turns?

    Looking further my Granada backing plates have a "scoop" for pulling air on to the rotors (which is the main reason I put them back on). Looks like the scoops could be contacting the sway bar and distorting the backing plate at the bottom causing the scrape. I'm wondering if the setup Grant is working on with Versailles spindles will have the same problem. Don't think there are many folks out there with the Granada spindles on the Tbird for comparison. I need to get my camera in there and see if I can tell what's going on but I'm itching to drive the car for a while and quit trying to "prefect" it.

    Eric

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  • simplyconnected
    replied
    Eric, the original spindles have stops (one on the RH and one on the LH side):


    You can see them more clearly on the lower "A" arms than you can on the spindles. Could it be that your Granada spindle stops need to be 'built-up"? If so and by the sounds of your situation, it wouldn't need much more metal. - Dave

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