Howard; I got the booster M/C and bracket from MBM thru Carolina Trucks. The bracket was suppose to fit a Ford. It didn't have enough rise to clear the back-up light switch and the steering column since my car has a straight stick and the shift linkage hit. I ended up using my old booster bracket and modifying it to fit the MBM booster. The original pedal link was retained since it was my original bracket. I had to cut a hole and bend the sides to clear the snout on the MBM booster. I also had to enlarge the bracket holes to fit the MBM studs. They were about the same size but not quite. The original bracket piviot linkage was retained to hook up to the booster rod.
I had the slug you're talking about in the master cyl. so that was not a problem. The master cyl. supplied only had ports on one side so I had to plumb the stop light switch in a tee. The combination valve I used was designed to mount on the side of the Master cyl. but it stuck out too far and hit the fender well so I mounted it under the master cyl. instead. That worked better anyway. I got a ford combination valve from Ray but could not get it to mount the way I wanted.
I am going to have to remove the booster and put a jam nut on the push rod that goes into the booster. I thought it would be OK but it has to have a jam nut on the rod to keep the booster rod from turning by itself which causes the brake pedal to lose all the free play and makes the brakes drag and the brake light stay on also. When the engine is running the vacuum lets the rod spin real easy if no jam nut is there to stop it. I had to cut the booster rod to fit and put the clevis on without the jam nut. My mistake.
The reason I asked you about your piviot linkage a few days ago was to get an idea of the mechanical advantage gained or lost by the lever setup thus making the stroke of the booster too long. My original stock piviot had the brake pedal rod which curves inside the piviot so it attaches in the center of the piviot so the stroke of the pedal is the same as the stroke of the booster rod. If the pedal rod is closer to the bottom of the piviot the stroke of the booster rod stroke will be longer than the pedal stroke. I don't know how much of a problem that might create if any.
If you have any questions just ask. I will help if I can.
I hope this helps some,
Gary
Here are some pictures of the booster mounted to the original bracket and of the original ford bracket. These were a rough-in of the setup. I also spaced the booster from the bracket a little more as can be seen in the pictures.
I had the slug you're talking about in the master cyl. so that was not a problem. The master cyl. supplied only had ports on one side so I had to plumb the stop light switch in a tee. The combination valve I used was designed to mount on the side of the Master cyl. but it stuck out too far and hit the fender well so I mounted it under the master cyl. instead. That worked better anyway. I got a ford combination valve from Ray but could not get it to mount the way I wanted.
I am going to have to remove the booster and put a jam nut on the push rod that goes into the booster. I thought it would be OK but it has to have a jam nut on the rod to keep the booster rod from turning by itself which causes the brake pedal to lose all the free play and makes the brakes drag and the brake light stay on also. When the engine is running the vacuum lets the rod spin real easy if no jam nut is there to stop it. I had to cut the booster rod to fit and put the clevis on without the jam nut. My mistake.
The reason I asked you about your piviot linkage a few days ago was to get an idea of the mechanical advantage gained or lost by the lever setup thus making the stroke of the booster too long. My original stock piviot had the brake pedal rod which curves inside the piviot so it attaches in the center of the piviot so the stroke of the pedal is the same as the stroke of the booster rod. If the pedal rod is closer to the bottom of the piviot the stroke of the booster rod stroke will be longer than the pedal stroke. I don't know how much of a problem that might create if any.
If you have any questions just ask. I will help if I can.
I hope this helps some,
Gary
Here are some pictures of the booster mounted to the original bracket and of the original ford bracket. These were a rough-in of the setup. I also spaced the booster from the bracket a little more as can be seen in the pictures.
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