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  • Y-Blokkah
    replied
    Car’s got lap belts already. A good thing.

    Originally posted by Woobie View Post
    While you are stopping on a dime with the new disc brakes, consider seat belts to keep everyone on board in place. There's something of sorts on installation in the tech library. You should double check but I believe there is no point reduction during judging at a show because it is a significant safety item.

    When we did belts on our Bird we just reproduced an old Chrysler schematic.

    good luck with new brakes

    Leave a comment:


  • Woobie
    replied
    While you are stopping on a dime with the new disc brakes, consider seat belts to keep everyone on board in place. There's something of sorts on installation in the tech library. You should double check but I believe there is no point reduction during judging at a show because it is a significant safety item.

    When we did belts on our Bird we just reproduced an old Chrysler schematic.

    good luck with new brakes

    Leave a comment:


  • Y-Blokkah
    replied
    I shall, sir. Thanks.

    My first order of business for this car is an investigation of a couple spots on the lower quarters that I looked at a bit sideways.
    I really don't see anything really untoward, but I've been doing this way, way too long, and better safe than sorry.
    And,... the spare tire well was "repaired" at one time.
    It appears to have been done by a Chimp coming off a 10 day drunk. #2 to fix.

    This car has a 390/C6 combo in it, so I'll investigate that a bit further as well. I'm a real DR fan, but a C6 is definitely the trans of choice when it comes to simple old fashioned durability.
    I also have the complete original engine/trans on a pallet, so who knows...

    If my Crown Vicky was half this solid when I started with it, I'd have been over the moon.

    Sorry for the thread drift. I'm just seeing a nice, solid, easy driving car here that's gonna be able to actually run with today's traffic when needed, and be the cool old car at the same time. HAPPINESS!

    Leave a comment:


  • simplyconnected
    replied
    Originally posted by Y-Blokkah View Post
    Yup. I have a 59 squarebird convertible.
    Trying to make it safe for today’s North Texas idiocy.
    Then Ernie, I suggest you definitely buy the Scarebird spindle brackets, the ABS kit #9787, S-10 calipers and pads, a combination proportioning valve, 3/8" & 7/16" IFF nuts and a 3/16"-diameter coil of CUNIFER brake line. This brake line costs more than steel but it never rusts, flares like butter and the cheapest IFF (inverted flare fittings) tools work just fine for perfectly formed ends. I did a video on this.

    I hope you will do the work yourself. If you don't have a pair of brake line pliers (for bending brake line) go to your nearest Harbor Freight and pick up a pair for TEN bucks (minus the 20% coupon). I bought a pair of Lisle for $30 before HF started selling their own. They both do the exact same thing.

    By far, 'power front disc brakes' is the best upgrade on my cars. Everyone who installs them LOVES the performance. I've never heard anyone say they will go back to front drums.

    I'm sure you will have questions and that's ok. Many of our members have done this retrofit. Take lots of pictures as you go along. - Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • Y-Blokkah
    replied
    Yup. I have a 59 squarebird convertible.

    Trying to make it safe for today’s North Texas idiocy.

    Leave a comment:


  • simplyconnected
    replied
    I can be a little thick at times but... Your profile doesn't list a Thunderbird. Your first post in this thread referenced '59 T-Bird wheels.

    Is this brake setup for a Squarebird or a full-size Ford?

    Leave a comment:


  • Y-Blokkah
    replied
    Thank you, Sir! I make a phone call tomorrow for info and availability.

    Between y’all and ex California folks on our highways in Collin County, y’all sold me on this rig.
    I see my life pass before my eyes every single day now.

    Leave a comment:


  • YellowRose
    replied
    Question on using factory wheels.

    Yes, if you buy the ABS setup, make sure they know that your Tbird has AC on it, and you need to clear that AC box.. They have the model mounting bracket that fixes that problem. Unfortunately, we have found, over the years, that they will not sell you just that mounting bracket. They want you to buy the whole set up from them.....

    Leave a comment:


  • Y-Blokkah
    replied
    Thanks!
    Just be sure, that ABS setup will clear the factory a/c box?

    Leave a comment:


  • simplyconnected
    replied
    I realize you want the look of stock but you may end up shooting yourself in the foot if your brakes aren't done right.

    I pick a modern car of similar size/weight and ask, 'what do the automakers use?' That should be your goal, to stop just like a modern car.

    Do they have manual disc or power disc and why. Power disc work much better and they meet or exceed federal standards.

    Power boosters are variable, like a servo. The harder you push on the pedal the more assistance they deliver until they reach their maximum boost. This is different from re-locating a bolt hole on your brake pedal (which is NOT variable ratio). The trade-off is stroke. The closer you put your pedal bolt to the pivot, the farther your pedal must travel for the same hydraulic flow. Is it worth it? The auto manufacturers think not and believe me, they would LOVE to save $50/vehicle.

    Buy a power disc brake booster/master/pedal linkage kit #9787 from ABS (on their page 95) if you have a Squarebird. They offer other kits for other T-birds and Ford Cars. Pirate Jack has attractive prices if you don't need that Squarebird firewall bracket. - Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • Y-Blokkah
    replied
    Thanks!
    I'm blown away by the helpful folks here.

    Feeling Blessed.

    Leave a comment:


  • OX1
    replied
    Originally posted by Y-Blokkah View Post
    Sure, I'd love to know, thanks!
    Numbers I have are 13-1/4 and 2-1/8 or 6.23.
    Practically man disk numbers already.
    I guess Ford didn't think much of their underdash booster either..........

    Couple pics of that disaster brake pedal. Good news is,
    should be able to mod ratio easier since it comes apart in so
    many pieces.

    http://luxjo.supermotors.net/59%20T-...201_160008.jpg

    http://luxjo.supermotors.net/59%20T-...201_160032.jpg

    (the other brake pedal is one is from a 79 Bronco, for reference)
    Last edited by OX1; October 10th, 2018, 04:10 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Y-Blokkah
    replied
    Sure, I'd love to know, thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • OX1
    replied
    My under dash booster seemed to be working fine, but my drums were really no
    different with that booster connected up or not.

    If you want to go through the trouble of changing pedal ratio,
    you can do manual disks. My moms 77 Granada had them. I detest anything
    more than 1/2 inch of brake pedal travel, so to me they would be horrible,
    but plenty have done them in the past. Think you are supposed to be in the
    7:1 range. I can dig into my notes on stock pedal ratio if you need it.

    Leave a comment:


  • YellowRose
    replied
    Question on using factory wheels.

    Hi Ernie, thanks for the comments. After I had the guys who painted Tweety Bird, paint my rims to match, I thought, why would I want to slap on full sized wheel covers and hide the yellow paint? So I decided to go with FORD dog dish hubcaps that I had found on FeeBay, since I had the mounting points for them on the rims. Then I decided to add the chrome beauty rings to set it off. You could leave the rims black, slap on a set of OEM full sized wheel covers and call it done...

    Leave a comment:

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