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  • #61
    Anybody could ID the thread here?
    looks like 27Tpi, maybe 3/8 27?20191217_185240.jpg

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    • #62
      Anybody could confirm this 3/8-27 thread on the stop switch?

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      • #63
        That thread is 1/8 inch NPT. It is a common pipe thread.
        Eric, I know you are in France and I agree, you must get things right before you start. I want you to have power front disc brakes with rear drum brakes, working as they should, like a modern car.

        Let's start at the beginning because I need to SEE what you have. It makes a big difference in the parts you need to buy. Take lots of clear pictures of your master cylinder area and your firewall. I need to see the firewall bracket you are presently using.

        Without pictures, this turns into a 'what if' game. We need to get this going in the right direction. You have the list with part numbers, prices and product names. Now, we need to see what you have. Either post the pictures here or send them to me (simplyconnected@aol.com). Buying at the right price without duplicating parts will save you money. We can help if you let us. - Dave
        My latest project:
        CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

        "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
        --Lee Iacocca

        From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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        • #64
          Thank you Dave
          As for the thread, the tech at MBM told me about this 1/8 thread. I thought he missed a key and he meant 3/8 as it as nothing to do with 1/8" and is close to 3/8 which is confirmed as I found the dimensions of 1/8 NPT on google now.
          So I need to locate a Tee with a 1/8 NPT port to install the stop switch on the line which is now easy.

          I will work later on a list and pictures of what I have.
          I got the parts from MBM and the tooling from BrakeQuip. So far everything is fine except in some details.
          The booster/Master Cylinder and valve are in place. I just had a trouble clearing off the gear box linkage but I got it.
          Now I am working on the pedal to booster link. Looks like I have 1 too short and 1 too long link but I have other miscellaneous links/rods/bolts and nuts. So need to assemble the right combination of parts.

          Then I am having trouble in identifying the flares on the lines.
          MBM told me they are using 37 flares on their valves.
          And I am not sure if on the car's side, we use 45 or 37. You previously said that it "don't follow the 37 or 45 angle because only the inside of the flare touches the cone (the sealing portion of the connection)" but I don't follow you there!?

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          • #65
            Sorry I missed to shoot a picture of bracket/booster/master cylinder and valve.
            As I said, the 2 pedal links that came with the booster are either too short or too long so by playing around with the various bits and pieces I got I should be able to assemble an adjustable pedal link.
            What do you think?

            As you can see on the enclosed picture, the booster enter far inside the bracket so I'll definitively have to shorten the booster's rod, probably use the provided spacers and maybe shorten the threaded portion of the Pedal Rod Extension.
            How is the initial set up supposed to be in term of plays, ...
            And how would you shorten the booster threaded rod as it seems to be difficult to remove (and not really necessary

            Other than that, I just have to flare the lines now.
            So again, MBM told me they are using 37 flares on their valves.
            And I am not sure if on the car's side, we use 45 or 37. You previously said that it "don't follow the 37 or 45 angle because only the inside of the flare touches the cone (the sealing portion of the connection)" but I don't follow you there!?

            Attached Files

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            • #66
              I know these days are special in between Christmas and New Year's day but nobody hanging around their computer??
              I would like to move on...

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              • #67
                So nobody can bring any idea, comment, light on those concerns?

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                • #68
                  Hi Eric,

                  I haven't done any of the things your attempting but in general I'll try to help a little with the following answers.

                  The threaded booster rod obviously can unthread from it's fitting so you can cut it down to the proper length, it may
                  be difficult to move at first or has a jamb/locking nut securing it but if it's threaded then it has to be able to be removed.

                  If you have a bit of extra brake line to play with then I would suggest trying a 37 degree flare that MBM recommends, if not
                  just cut it off and then try a 45 degree flare and see which works best. if the line is soft enough it won't really matter as the
                  fitting will crush and seal the line regardless, unless the flare doesn't fit into the fitting.

                  Sorry I can't be of more help but since I have attempted this upgrade yet I can only offer some trial and error fitting advice.

                  Good luck and hope it's really a couple of quick and easy flares and a simple shortening of the adjustment rod.
                  Pat M.
                  Monson, MA
                  1959 HT Hickory Tan, Thunderbird registry #77617

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                  • #69
                    Thank Pat for your support
                    I am pretty sure that 37 Vs 45 does not make a real difference, the tubing I had is quite soft and it should shape itself. But I like to know or learn what I am doing so I would like to be able to identify those 2 different connections.
                    Today I learned that we can get gages but measuring such close angles on such small areas seems to be tricky.
                    Also I am concerned that what may seems to fit OK may fail later while driving and beside being dangerous, I would have to do it again ...

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                    • #70
                      Pat
                      the more I learn on this 37/45 affair, the more I feel that nobody but me cares about it and that everybody screw in any shape flare and it works. Lines, (especially soft ones) will shape in place.
                      It is quite tricky to measure and I learned gages exist, see enclosed picture.

                      As for the rest I managed to cut the rod from the booster. Steel was rather soft and it cuts well without having to remove it. It's also a bit tricky as it wobles around so you have to hold the rod in a vise and find a way to support the booster.
                      I found a nice way to make the pedal rod.
                      The booster/Master Cylinder are in place so I can install the lines.
                      Pedal link will be installed later.
                      And I started the plumb work trying to find the best and nicest way to route the lines. Still waiting for a Tee to install the brake light on the line.
                      Going slowly I make some progress and I am statisfied...
                      Attached Files

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                      • #71
                        Originally posted by Eric S View Post
                        ... I found the dimensions of 1/8 NPT on google now.
                        So I need to locate a Tee with a 1/8 NPT port to install the stop switch on the line which is now easy.
                        I've had problems with that hydraulic pressure switch on my brake system. It took too much pressure to switch on so the driver behind would not see that I was braking lightly. When I replaced it with a new one (made in china) it leaked immediately.

                        Instead I use a simple mechanical switch like his one, designed to be retrofitted on a motorcycle: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                        Mine is attached to the bottom of the dash and the end of the spring near the top of the brake. It is adjustable and sensitive.

                        Wiring was super easy as well. The two wires that go to the hydraulic switch route right past the brake pedal. I just pulled them out of the grommet in the dash, plugged the hole with some urethane, shortened the wires and connected the switch. It's been trouble free going on three years.

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                        • #72
                          Thank for the information. The switch was working fine on the original line so I will give it a chance. But I know what to do shall it fail...

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                          • #73
                            I am anticipating bleeding the master cylinder but what about the proportioning valve. How do you bleed the whole thing.
                            MBM recommends to bleed the master cylinder on the bench. But how and when do you bleed the proportioning valve?

                            As for the brake light switch, I guess I will use the switch provided by MBM on the valve. Lot of plastic there so I was considering the original but I may go plastic as it's on the bottom anyway, and probably reliable.

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              When you bleed the brakes after everything is back together that will bleed the proportioning valve.

                              John
                              John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                              Thunderbird Registry #36223
                              jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

                              https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                              • #75
                                The switch on the proportioning valve is not a brake light but a warning light. It works in case the rear or front line fails, a part slides off center inside, contact the switch to ground it and light a warning light.
                                So I will install the original pressure stop switch on the line and hope I will have enough pressure to activate it fine.
                                Thank you John for the bleeding information on the proportioning valve.

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