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  • #46
    Hi Eric, first of all you do NOT want a 7Inch single diaphragm booster... The 8" Power Booster many of us used is this one. 8" 2 Stage Power Booster MBM PB8537 or PB8537C For Chromed version. For the Master Cylinder get a 1" Bore Corvette Style Dual Master Cylinder - MBM MC1321A or MC1321CH For chromed version... Or get the flat top version MC1321CHFT (Chromed Flat Top) because I had problems with those two locking clips hitting the inside of the hood when I closed it. If you use the MC1321A OR MC1321CH, You may have to put some washers on it to force it downward a bit to clear the hood. I will let others comment on the rest of those, if needs be...

    Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
    The Terminator..... VTCI #11178
    Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or Call (Cell) 210-875-1411

    https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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    • #47
      Ray
      This is what you said earlier on the other section on disc brake conversion. I am just surprised that MBM advises other products.
      What would be the pros and cons of each? Can you tell? Also what is the difference between 8" and 7" boosters (except an inch)
      None that I don't believe you, I just like to understand what I am doing.

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      • #48
        Eric, most everyone on here has used the 8" Dual Power Booster (and not a 7" Single Power Booster) to have better braking power... You need it to stop that Tank of a Tbird... That is my understanding... Perhaps MBM did not understand what Car you were planning on putting this in... Also, instead of a single MC, you want a dual MC so that if one side of it fails, you still have the other side to provide braking...

        Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
        The Terminator..... VTCI #11178
        Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or Call (Cell) 210-875-1411

        https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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        • #49
          I am going to talk with MBM. The master cylinder he's offering is a double chamber. I guess?!

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          • #50
            Here is a dealer that has some complete kits :
            https://www.classicdiscbrakes.com/55...erbird_c68.htm

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            • #51
              It looks like classicdiscbrakes do not use parts from MBM.
              MBM do not want to give any advise maybe for liabiliy concerns. So for now I am stuck, with the parts that Dave advise but with no idea of the bracket I will have to use and that MBM is concerned about available space in the engine bay (although several did it) and the parts that MBM advised at first but that Dave's think are too small but maybe be good enough.
              I am wondering if I am not going to leave the original set up as I had no major trouble with it.
              Last edited by Eric S; October 5th, 2019, 08:21 AM.

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              • #52
                Originally posted by Eric S View Post
                I am wondering if I am not going to leave the original set up as I had no major trouble with it.
                If you aren't having any trouble with them then why did you post that they locking up? Disc brakes need a modern booster and dual master cylinder. However it's your car and your safety so you do what you feel is best.

                John
                John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

                Thunderbird Registry #36223
                jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

                https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                • #53
                  I said no "major" trouble. It worked except it was dragging when brakes came hot. Now I'd prefer to change the set up but can not get complete information anywhere.
                  I would not like to use the OEM bracket and I can't find a bracket to use. I have to talk with MBM and see if their Booster bracket Bprp6570 : http://mbmbrakes.com/bprp6570-1965-1...oster-bracket/ would fit the firewall and their 8" 2 Stage Power Booster MBM PB8537 and if this will allow the boloster/master cylinder to clear the hood.
                  Last edited by Eric S; October 5th, 2019, 09:07 AM.

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                  • #54
                    I found a bracket that may fit but I am not sure of how to understand the dimensions given. I am waiting to hear from the dealer as I asked him to clarify but how would you understand the dimensions below :
                    Bracket deep----4 1/8 (I would imagine from front to rear face)
                    3” vertical (
                    86mm center to center (difference between this 86 mm and the 3" above?)

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                    • #55
                      Hi Eric,

                      Why don't you just contact http://www.tbirdranch.com/ and ask about his complete master cylinder/booster/bracket kit. You can see a picture and get the
                      basic price on his blog http://www.tbirdranch.com/blog/ just scroll down the page a bit to see what he offers. This way you won't have to try and assemble
                      the right parts or make any mistakes with ordering something that won't fit your bird, I'd hate to see you get the wrong stuff and not be able to return it or
                      lose a bunch of money trying to return it. I don't have the fabrication equipment to do these things myself so knowing that, I will gladly pay for someone else's
                      knowledge and expertise in this important part of the brake system. Wish you good luck in this repair and hope your brakes are working smoothly again soon,
                      Pat M.
                      Monson, MA
                      1959 HT Hickory Tan, Thunderbird registry #77617

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                      • #56
                        Hi Pat
                        thank you for the link. I was not aware of it.
                        I am in advanced discussions with MBM so I'll go this route for now but it's nice to see I can find something else just in case.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Hello everybody

                          still working, (too) slowly, on my brakes.
                          I got some tooling to make flares on the brake lines. It's a complete tool that can make all kind of connection. I am using a 3/16" tube but I can't determine whether the flare is 37 or 45. What was used on those cars? They are quite close and I can't see the difference or measure it.

                          Also is there some tips to bend the tube to match (where I have the same shape) the original tubes. I was considering using tape to place the new one against the old one and duplicate the bends and straights. Not big deal but just wanted to share experiences.

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                          • #58
                            Eric, technically 'double flare' or more correctly 'inverted flare' don't follow the 37 or 45 angle because only the inside of the flare touches the cone (the sealing portion of the connection). The tubing size is 3/16" for the entire car.

                            For bending, I use the bending pliers exclusively. More importantly, I'm lazy and not as flexible as in the long lost past. So, I set up my cardboard under the wheel I'm working on. Then I bring out my hand tools (bending pliers, inverted flare tool set, 1/8" drill bit and tube cutter) along with cunifer tubing and the IFF (inverted flare fitting) nuts I need. I did a video about this: CLICK HERE.

                            When bending, never make your lines too short. You can 'recover' from making them too long by bending a small saddle that can take up or give back a small amount of tubing to your length. Some people buy 'ready-made' lines and simply curl loops to take up length. No, I don't suggest this because the job looks cheap, bad, and it adds resistance to flow. Follow my thoughts in the video. If you 'get it' using the measurements in the video, you can cut the exact length you need THEN bend the tubing for an exact fit.

                            I know of only one vendor who sells the correct firewall bracket (if your car did not come with power brakes). It is on page 95. You can buy the 7" two-stage booster and it will work but the 8" works even better. It is kit #9787 (or 9798 if you buy the master cylinder with it).

                            Mount all your devices first, then plumb your lines to them (just like you do in your home). For instance, your kitchen and bathroom faucets are mounted where they go, then the pipes are connect to them. Same here. Mount your proportioning valve where you want it first then plumb to it. If you put it under the master cylinder, your hands won't reach your spark plugs.

                            It is good you are asking questions because you live in France and you need to get this right BEFORE you start. Take lots of pictures as your work progresses. - Dave
                            My latest project:
                            CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                            "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                            --Lee Iacocca

                            From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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                            • #59
                              Thank you Dave
                              you have been helpfull one more time.
                              I found some information here about the flares : http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare
                              It seems that the flare is well 45 from what I read there.
                              I am using a bottom mounted valve and your remark about the spark plugs raised concerns so I stopped by my garage on my way to work and checked. I can actually slide a wrench on spark plug #8 when everything is in place. But you did well warn me as I will have to route the lines a bit to one side to clear the path for the wrench. Added benefit is it will take the lines farther away from the exhaust manifolds which shouldn't do any harm.
                              As for patterning the lines, I used the old ones to bend the new ones and tapped them together. I left a longer than needed tube on the ends so I will put it on the car and see how it goes, adjust the bents and curves and mark to cut the correct lengths.
                              I should be fine. Just have to make sure now that I need to flare at 45, adjust a rod on the booster and check the link to the pedal and my blank mounting will be done.
                              I will make a detailed report on the parts I used when it's finished.

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                              • #60
                                I had a reply from the Master Cylinder and proportioning valve maker. They say their connections are 37. Based on what I read on the previous link, 37 is rather rare ??!!

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