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  • #16
    I'm going to do the conversion in the spring. I just wanted to get my ducks in a row and get some expert opinions before I bought parts.

    Some of the kits I see now on Ebay look complete, but I'm not sure if they are good quality. But I would like to get a kit and not have to buy parts from different sources.

    Thanks everyone for all the input.

    John

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    • #17
      A lot of ebay parts are from legitimate suppliers. They use an ebay storefront to expand their visibility. Sometimes the costs are less, sometimes more. They play around with shipping costs, sometimes using an actual calculated fee instead of an high estimate at their regular storefront.

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      • #18
        Disc conversion and sway bar

        Help I am getting a disc conversion kit from auto city classics and they said that the kit might have to modify or remove the sway bar ?? anyone one had this problem !! Thanks just got my 1960 bird love it !! traded a 1966 t-bird for it.
        Mike
        1960 Thunderbird Hardtop

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        • #19
          No one who has done the disc conversion to my knowledge has had to modify the sway bar. You should be reusing your existing spindles with any kit so there's no reason to modify or remove the sway bar.

          John
          John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

          Thunderbird Registry #36223
          jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

          https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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          • #20
            Thank You John,
            I am going to use the original MC and booster, my car has AC (and it works YEA !! ) should I use single piston or 4 piston calipers ?? My TBird was sold in Oct though Mecum Auto Auction it was part of the Bud Hurst collection. Wish I had more history on it.


            http://www.ebay.com/itm/1958-1959-19...#ht_488wt_1362
            Mike
            1960 Thunderbird Hardtop

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            • #21
              You can NOT use the original master cylinder and booster that came with the car from the factory. It is not nearly powerful enough for disc brakes. You will have to get a new master cylinder and booster plus the modified bracket needed to clear the factory AC. If it's after market AC then you don't need the bracket. You will also need a proportioning valve.

              John
              John Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator

              Thunderbird Registry #36223
              jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695

              https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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              • #22
                how about this kit ??? the booster will now be under the hood right ?? I think this is a pretty good price for that kit.

                http://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-1964-FO...#ht_543wt_1362
                Mike
                1960 Thunderbird Hardtop

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                • #23
                  Disc brake conversion

                  This kit you listed requires 15" rims. Does your Squarebird have 14" OEM rims on it, or 15"? If 14" rims, according to their ad, this will not work. The 14" OEM rims will not work either. If you have 14" OEM rims on your Squarebird, you have to swap out your 14" OEM rims for disc brake ready 14" rims for this conversion. Yes, the booster will be under the hood. You probably have the K-H booster that is under the dash. If so, you can leave it in the line. Several of us have, with no problems. As stated, since you have AC, you will need a mounting bracket that pushes the booster out far enough to clear the AC plenum box.
                  Last edited by YellowRose; December 4th, 2013, 03:51 PM.

                  Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator
                  The Terminator..... VTCI #11178
                  Contact me via Private Message for my email address, or Call (Cell) 210-875-1411

                  https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by mbc40 View Post
                    ...the kit might have to modify or remove the sway bar ?? ...
                    You really need your sway bar. Most members get heavier, 1-1/8" diameter bars.

                    If ANY disk brake kit hints about messing with your sway bar, run away as fast as you can.

                    How much of this work are you doing yourself? If you can fabricate, you can keep your firewall bracket (and everything back to the pedal). This will save you a lot of money.

                    You need a two-stage 8" booster, a dual-reservoir master cylinder, a proportioning valve, brake lines & adapter nuts, spindle brackets, 'loaded' S-10 calipers, two Mustang 11" rotors and misc. hardware (hoses, etc.).

                    Our members who recently did conversions used Scarebird spindle brackets (that mount to the back side of your spindles, far away from the sway bar).

                    It is wise to buy the heavy parts locally for two reasons: You get a choice of pads for the calipers, no shipping costs on cast iron parts, and better parts come with a warranty (sometimes a 'lifetime warranty'). If you're not satisfied, returns are much easier across the counter.

                    Here is Marcelo's retrofit:

                    Click on the picture to see his thread. - Dave
                    My latest project:
                    CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

                    "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
                    --Lee Iacocca

                    From: Royal Oak, Michigan

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