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NYsquarebird58's Brake System Overhaul and Disc Brake Conversion

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  • DKheld
    replied
    Extending the booster out between the booster and the bracket rather than between the booster and the firewall seems to be a bonus. No need to worry with also extending the pedal bracket to match. That all stays stock and your pedal height is not changed. (one less thing to worry with) and it's a real pain to get that pedal bolt in and out unless you just like standing on your head.

    Both the factory kit and the bracket I made needed to extend the stock pedal bracket (extended out and up on the factory kit).

    Factory kit


    My stuff


    (Both designed to go between the booster bracket and firewall)

    Eric
    Last edited by DKheld; September 10th, 2012, 10:20 AM.

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  • NYsquarebird58
    replied
    Went ahead and painted the hockey stick. Someday that engine compartment will get painted, but at least for now everything brake related will be nice and clean. I even got a new set of stainless steel clevis pins. I'll be sure to lube all the joints before I put everything back together.

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  • NYsquarebird58
    replied
    Here are the brackets curing in the sun.

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  • NYsquarebird58
    replied
    Originally posted by gaffney1951 View Post
    kinda fun making your own parts. I never throw away steel, you will always find somewhere to use it. Mike
    Very true. With what I learned yesterday, I'm sure I'll be taking on more metal working projects in the future.

    Now I've just gotta' get my hands on a welder...

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  • NYsquarebird58
    replied
    Originally posted by DKheld View Post
    Genius - shear genius.

    Yep - the disc brake conversion is 1 can of worms.

    Adding factory air to a non-A/C car is a whole case....

    Man - you're going to be back on the road before you know it.

    Eric
    Thanks Eric! I'm hoping to be able to cruise this old bird before winter comes.

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  • NYsquarebird58
    replied
    Originally posted by keith View Post
    That looks fantastic. The table saw trick is a new one on me.
    Thanks Keith! I've never really fabbed anything out of metal before, but I've built all kinds of things out of wood over the years. I guess using the table saw for repeated precise cuts just seemed logical to me.

    This whole thing was a big learning curve for me. I know it probably sounds silly, but the most challenging part for me was drilling the holes. I just couldn't get that 3/8" drill bit to drill all the way through that 1/4" steel. I burned up a few bits on the first hole alone.

    I thought I was doing it correctly. I started with small bits and worked my way up, but by the time I got to 5/16", I was having a hard time cutting through.

    I called Dave up and he was able to diagnosed my problem. It turns out I was drilling too fast. I slowed that drilled down, applied more pressure and boy that made a world of difference.

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  • NYsquarebird58
    replied
    Originally posted by byersmtrco View Post
    Ah !!! Memories !!!
    Of one of the biggest cans worms I've
    ever opened !!! But . . . at least she stops
    good.

    Glad yer ok.
    Your project looks good. You'll be happy end result.
    Hope you kept some strong pain killers for the migraine
    or two you're sure to get.
    Wanna triple your fun? Add sway bars at the same time.
    Ha! Wish I had those painkillers yesterday. I was getting a migraine trying to figure out where I could source some 2"x2" square tubing on a Saturday.

    It finally came to me when I was sitting on the steps looking out at the driveway. I looked at the back of my Suburban, saw the hitch and the light bulb went off! It tell ya', it was a eureka moment!

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  • keith
    replied
    That looks fantastic. The table saw trick is a new one on me.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Nice job ...

    kinda fun making your own parts. I never throw away steel, you will always find somewhere to use it. Mike

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  • DKheld
    replied
    Genius - shear genius.

    Yep - the disc brake conversion is 1 can of worms.

    Adding factory air to a non-A/C car is a whole case....

    Man - you're going to be back on the road before you know it.

    Eric

    Leave a comment:


  • byersmtrco
    replied
    Ah !!! Memories !!!
    Of one of the biggest cans worms I've
    ever opened !!! But . . . at least she stops
    good.

    Glad yer ok.
    Your project looks good. You'll be happy end result.
    Hope you kept some strong pain killers for the migraine
    or two you're sure to get.
    Wanna triple your fun? Add sway bars at the same time.

    Leave a comment:


  • NYsquarebird58
    replied
    Booster Bracket Fabrication

    The jeep bracket I was originally going to use wouldnít work without having to do some cutting and welding, and since I donít know how to weld yet, I decided to see if I could fabricate a bracket out of material I had laying around.

    I needed to make a two inch spacer to push the booster farther away from the firewall so decided to uses these 2Ē hitches I had laying around.

    (Donít worry I only really sacrificed one hitch, The one pictured left was bent from being overloaded. The one on the right lived on my truck for the past 7+ years, was rusty, and was due for replacement soon anyway)


    Here I am cutting a section off the bent hitch. I was able to cut the straight piece I needed right before the bent section.




    I put a 7 inch cutoff wheel on my table saw and ripped the tubing to my desired dimensions.


    Here are the newly cut sections. Notice that the flanges on one side are taller. This is because the bolt pattern on the Ford booster bracket is slightly wider than that of the new booster. (Youíll see what I mean in the next couple of pictures)


    I used a wire brush attachment on my angle grinder to remove all the old paint and rust.


    I then ground, filed and sanded all the rough cut edges smooth,


    Here are the brackets with the holes drilled on the booster side.


    You can tell that these brackets were made from an old trailer hitch. Notice the hole in the center of the bracket where the hitch pin would have gone.


    It was important to drill the holes just right. If the holes were too close to the inside radius of the bend, the shoulders on the nuts would hit and the nuts would not sit flush when tightened.


    I waited to drill the holes on the firewall side of the bracket until I had a chance to mock the unit up to the Ford bracket on the car and scribe the holes.


    Holes on the firewall side of the bracket drilled.




    Notice how the holes on the firewall side of the bracket are farther out than the holes on the booster side.




    It was raining pretty heavy today, but I was able to get outside tonight to test fit everything while it was drizzling.


    All ready for paint.


    Two coates of gloss black enamel and Iím off to bed.

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  • NYsquarebird58
    replied
    Thanks, Dave!

    Here's a pic of the freshly painted Booster bracket. I'm going polish and grease that pivot bolt before I put it all back together.

    I've got some Moly Paste that I'll probably use for lube.

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  • simplyconnected
    replied
    Oh! I see, now... the bottom uses a shoulder bolt which means you crank the nut tight and the middle link still pivots freely. Very nice. This setup also makes it easy to chrome all your parts later on, if you want.

    Your setup looks very professional. Nice work. - Dave

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  • NYsquarebird58
    replied
    Here you go Dave!

    Some pics of the factory booster bracket.











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