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  • Eric S
    replied
    I have just been told that secondary throttles opens only when engine is on load and can not open on neutral.
    Even though I don't understand why this could be, it would explain it...

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  • Eric S
    replied
    Well I did not checked before if 2nd throttle opens or not and now the car seems to performs about the same as before.

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  • jopizz
    replied
    I would go over the parts diagram again and make sure you installed everything correctly and didn't forget anything. If it didn't have any check ball before you took it apart and it worked then it shouldn't need one now.

    John

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  • Eric S
    replied
    I pulled it in full but not for long ...
    Also engine vacuum reads at around 20

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  • jopizz
    replied
    How far did you open the throttle with the car running? The secondary only begins to open at moderate to full throttle.

    John

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  • Eric S
    replied
    Carburetor is now installed, car running but secondary throttles are not opening.
    What can it be?
    I remind you it had a new diaphragm but I hadn't a ball check in the diaphragm and did not replaced it as it was not in the kit.

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  • Eric S
    replied
    Bleeder screen is not always on diagrams but saw it on a disassembling procedure.
    Yes I will use this spring. Hope it's not the culprit for the problems I had !
    As for the ball Mike said "Some use a check ball in the secondary, some do not, which is why you're not seeing it in the diagram. If you didn't have a ball in there when you took it apart don't use it. If you did, then put it back in."
    So I will put everything back together as it was. I hope the cleaning and new parts will help with this leak.
    I still have to wait for a few more days now as the choke mecanism has been in a slow rust eating solution for a week and I assume 1 more week is needed.

    The choke piston has 2 grooves. I saw no mention of an O-ring in those grooves. They were full of black compound. Not sure if that was remnants of O-rings or just debris...

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  • jopizz
    replied
    If the spring was on the plunger when you took it apart I would use it. The plunger's job is to push fuel out, it's not necessary for it to bottom out. As for the check ball put a thin wire through the hole and see if it's open. I don't see any bleeder screen on the diagrams, just the washer.

    John

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  • Eric S
    replied
    I have seen nothing wrong on the shafts, maybe the car was not running so good. Or problem was just marginal. Or both.

    As for the extra spring, I found a picture I missed until now where it is shown installed on the pump's cup ! So it's been used as a return spring in place of #24 !?
    Problem is the pump down movement is now limited by the spring thickness and the cup does not go down as much (by .050"). Is that bearable?


    As for the ball in the diaphragm, Mike said "Yes, if your secondary diaphragm housing has the hole as illustrated in our video, the ball and retainer does need to be in place, otherwise you just have an open port to the atmosphere and you won't get any vacuum."

    But on Ford's manual "A ball check, located in the vacuum passage restricts the amount of venturi vacuum entering the diaphragm chamber." I am not sure it's open to the atmosphere.

    Bleeder screen is also missing on that carburetor. This part is not available, what does it filter? Can I have it made in some kind of mesh?

    20200729_184052.jpg

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  • jopizz
    replied
    Flooding is caused either by a worn or sticking needle valve or too high a float level. A new needle valve and adjusting the float height per the shop manual should fix that problem. Usually flooding will cause poor running, stalling and hard starting. If your car was running well I doubt it was flooding. I would still suspect a worn throttle shaft.

    John

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  • Eric S
    replied
    None of the missing parts were in the kit, otherwise it would not be a concern.
    Mike has none available either.
    Now the car was running not too bad without those parts BUT the carb was slightly leaking. Per Mike it was leaking from the throttle shafts because of getting too full (flooding). I am wondering is the problem was becasue one of those missing parts...

    I recalled the picture.

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  • jopizz
    replied
    I have not personally rebuilt one of the Holley 4000 carburetors. I do know that it was recommended not to use a diaphragm check ball on automatic transmissions. However that was many years ago and may not still be relevant. I don't think it will hurt to use it if it came in the rebuild kit. I've seen quite a few needle valves without the retainer clip so it's not unusual. Once again if the kit came with one I would use it. As far as the air horn seal according to the picture it just joins in the front. It does not overlap. If you need to hold it in place a little grease will probably work fine. I don't know about the return spring. Did you ask Mike if they carry it. By the way your .jpg image is not showing up. Try reattaching it.

    John

    holley diagram.jpg

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  • Eric S
    replied
    Hey John, not a problem to find it, I am pretty well organised (to some limit !) but I had to remember I had it.
    It is now partially printed.

    As for the carburetor, it is now cleaned and partly re-assembled.
    Problems are :
    - I had no float to needle clip. Mike (from Mike's carburetor) told me it is not mandatory?
    - I had no Accelerating Pump return spring. Anyone has some dimensions?
    - I had no Valve Diaphragm Check and Retainer. Is it important?
    - Repair kit came with a Seal Air Horn made of some kind of cotton cloth. Does it have to be air tight? Do you need to grease it to hold it in place or any other tip? It's too long and required to be cut, does it have to be cut a bit long to overlap the ends?

    And at the end of the battle, I have an extra spring !
    It is shown beside the accelerating pump rod spring and its felt seal and washers. The one on the bottom.
    20200804_220625[1].jpg
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Eric S; August 5th, 2020, 01:13 PM.

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  • jopizz
    replied
    Good to hear that you found it. The section on carburetors is pretty in-depth so it should help you out rebuilding yours.

    John

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  • Eric S
    replied
    Back home I found the 1956 Ford Car Shop Manual in my files and yes I never opened it so far.
    Thank you John !!

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