BY: 60 T-Bird (Martin Burs) & Simplyconnected

This Power Window Motor is from a 1960 Thunderbird.  There are slight internal differences between this, and the 1958 and 1959 Squarebird motors.

Picture #1    The two long mounting screws were removed for easy wheel access.  Before attempting disassembly, BE SURE there are no dents or raised metal (dings) on the motor shaft.
If there is, the shaft will hang up on the bearing, causing unnecessary damage.  Use a fine file and go over the shaft surface.  Any imperfections will show up immediately.  File them smooth.  The housing shell should easily slide off of the motor shaft.

Picture #2    This is a ScotchBrite wheel, not a grinding stone!  The purpose is to remove paint, rust, and scale, not dents or dings.

Picture #3    File the set screw marks so they aren't raised and gently tap the bearing off.  If you feel resistance, look for an obstruction on the motor shaft.  Continued hammering will destroy the bearing.

Picture #4    Here are the parts laid out.  This is really an "after" picture, but keep track of the washers as they help control end play and center the armature in the housing.

Picture #5   This is the armature before the commutator segments are cleaned-up. This commutator shows evidence of excessive oil or grease, but a careful inspection shows no burned, scored, or tapered segments.

* Commutator segments are made of soft copper with micarta or bakelite between them. The brushes are made of carbon-impregnated bronze.  This combination serves many purposes: The materials are heat resistant (lots of current to causes arcing), the carbon forms a lubricating surface that current easily passes through, and they last many decades.

Picture #6   I zoomed-in as far as possible to show the commutator silhouette.  I want to see the contour of these segments.  This one is nice and straight, so cleaning is all that is necessary here.  As a LAST resort, a commutator can be 'trued' by tooling the copper down on a lathe, but the protective surface will be gone and the micarta will need to be undercut with a knife.  Then, the brushes should be arced to match the new commutator radius (do this by hand with very fine sandpaper on the commutator).  Further 'break-in' will sacrifice some brush length.

Picture #7    Nicely cleaned field coils and brush holder plate.

Picture #8    This is an excellent image showing the brush holders and where the wires are soldered.  Ford kept the integrity of using Black for all ground wires.

Picture #9    This image shows the sintered oil lite bearing (on the left) with a surrounding felt oil retainer.  The reason it is out of the holder (top) is because the motor shaft had a bur and further hammering destroyed the rivets and the spring washer.  The replacement spring is on the bottom right.

Picture #10    This is a broken brush holder from a pre-1960 motor.  Epoxy was used to repair it.

Picture #11   The yellow wire feeds the UP field coil, the red feeds the DOWN field coil.  Both coils exit with black wires.  Eventually, all black wires will connect on the solder pad attached to the brush holder plate.

Picture #12   

Picture #13   

Picture #14    This is a good picture of Martin Burs's hand.

Picture #15    Before installing the armature, use 'T'-pins (available at any hobby store) to hold both brushes back.

Picture #16    This armature was cleaned, turned down, and now the commutator segments are being undercut by removing micarta between segments with a knife.

Time to reassemble and paint this motor.  Below is the electrical schematic (including the switch).  The motor and leads are depicted within the dashed lines.

Picture #17    Squarebird power window motors are DC shunt motors.  Ford kept this configuration in Thunderbirds until 1963.  Then, Ford used three-wire series motors.

1960 Thunderbird Quarterglass

Created: 18 February, 2011

Last Edited: 18 February, 2011

Email: webmaster@squarebirds.org

Return to Squarebirds Home.