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#11
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![]() Justin, if you look at my post below yours, the link is already posted there. Clicking on it will let you go through every one of the 113 pictures posted. You can view it as a slide show and see bigger pictures of each. I have also put this information on the Technical Resource Library web page.
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Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator '59 Tbird "The Yellow Rose Of Texas" aka "Tweety Bird" "It's Hip To Be Square" Thunderbird Registry #33025 VTCI #11178 rayclark07"at"att.net (Home) 210-674-5781 (Cell) 210-875-1411 http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm |
#12
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![]() Quote:
I did see the link... but I can't save the pictures from the site. My project will take a bit of time... I am on a 7 year plan! (before I am 40 she will be done)!!! lol... I have two kids under 5... so my $ & lots of time goes to them! ![]() I plan on doing most of the work myself... so I am looking for LOTS of reference! I am not sure that the pictures on the link provided will be there when I am ready to do the work. So I have been collecting info & pictures along the way. Long story I know.... but just wanted to let you know there is a method to my madness.... so I hope! ![]()
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-------------------------------- 1960 Thunderbird Been in my family since 1961 San Diego, CA -> Portland, OR |
#13
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#14
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I am more concerned about the front end. The whole front structure weight bears down on four skinny grade-5 bolts. I'd feel more comfy if that welded plate had a 'step' and was bolted to the top of the 'A' arm (like how the spring was on top, pushing down). I have never seen a stamped suspension arm welded. Ever. - Dave
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My latest project: CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build. "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?" --Lee Iacocca |
#15
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![]() The panhard bar is hard to see in the pictures and I wondered the same thing until I saw it in person. It actually runs from the passenger side, underside of the axle, and runs across to the drivers side rail (near where the parallel arms are set). This is usually more of a racing setup, and if not setup correctly can result in the axle moving significantly side-to-side during cycling. Greg (the owner) assured me he has done this setup many times and has the geometry worked out (although ridetech doesn't like the setup). The upside is that it leaves plenty of room over the top of the axle to run the exhaust.
As for the front A arm setup. I hadn't thought about the stamped arms being welded. However, while not a metalurgist or professional welder, I can't really say I have a problem with it. If you look at picture 110, it looks as though the machined piece that was welded to the A-arm allows the bottom of the airwave to sit on top of it, so that it is what the airwave actually sits on. The 2 bolts are just for the rebound of the shock (the pull up). I'll have to check on that when I visit next week though! |
#16
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![]() I have been in contact with Ride Tech concerning the parts or units to use on a Squarebird for their Air Ride system. As Matt said, Ride Tech does not recommend mounting their system the way it is being done by Performance Car Craft. However, as has been noted, that company has done a number of these conversions with no problems. Ride Tech has yet to do one in their on shop on a Squarebird as far as I was able to ascertain. Here is what Rodney there had to say.
"On the front they used a 1000 series shockwave. We don't recommend running the shockwaves bolted to the bottom of the control arm, You are supporting the car with 2 3/8" bolts. It looks like if they would have used a shorter shockwave they could have put it in right on top of the factory arm with minimal modifications. The rear isn't an air overleaf. It is a weld in parallel four link with 7000 series shockwaves. I hope this helps." So if you want to do this conversion using Ride Tech technology, you might talk with Rodney or one of the guys there regarding which shockwave unit to use up front, instead of the 1000 series unit. I also note that simplyconnected also has some concerns about how they mounted the front section. That might bear further looking into if anyone decides to go this route.
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Ray Clark - Squarebirds Administrator '59 Tbird "The Yellow Rose Of Texas" aka "Tweety Bird" "It's Hip To Be Square" Thunderbird Registry #33025 VTCI #11178 rayclark07"at"att.net (Home) 210-674-5781 (Cell) 210-875-1411 http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm |
#17
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![]() First, I do apologize for contradicting and I don't ever intend on starting flames, BUT I am genuinely fearful for the safety of you and your family, Matt. I wrote these comments in an open forum for everyone to constructively criticize, not for my benefit, but for yours. I hope this thread benefits all who consider customizing their car’s suspension.
Second, I appreciated over 110 pictures of this job. Without them, we could never see the intricacies of this setup. Matt, can you get some clearer pictures of the panhard rod as it is installed? Quote:
Your new spring is pulling in the middle of a 'lever' (the "A" arm) and thousands of vibrations are realized over a one mile distance. This is a recipe for disaster because of three problems: The plate is welded to the bottom of your "A" arm, The bolts are grade-5, not grade-10, The spring is pulling down on that stack with thousands of pounds, equally counteracted by vibrating force. If the weld fatigues or causes stress cracks (usually at a weld), or if one bolt breaks, the spring will come crashing through and the "A" arm will collapse up into your wheel well. Welds can be 'stress relieved' by heat treating the whole part, then the grain structures become one piece of steel. But we never heat treat stampings because they warp terribly. One solution is to machine a cup-like perch that bolts to the top of your lower "A" arm, and extends down, so the spring can rest on top of it (or the bottom rod can go through it). The metal needs to be tough, like machine steel. Then, keep all heat far away. Finally, it's great that Ray, or anyone, calls for expert advice. Posting this job on our open forum is a great tool to avoid potential dangers, so we can safely enjoy our passion. If I am wrong about anything here, I will publicly eat all my words. I would much rather be safe than sorry. That's why I couldn't let this matter slide. - Dave Dare
__________________
My latest project: CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build. "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?" --Lee Iacocca |
#18
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![]() I will try and get some pictures of the panhard bar this week if I can get off work early enough on Wednesday to get out there and pick up my engine/transmission (it's a 2.5 hour drive).
The pictures that have been taken are all done by Performance Car Craft themselves and I will receive them all on a disc once they are done. Hopefully, just another month or so! I have emailed Greg both to let him know the buzz here over the conversion and the concerns expressed. Knowing him, I should have his answer by COB Monday regarding the concerns. |
#19
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![]() From Greg at Performance Car Craft
Hey Matt hope all is well so you can feel better the pictures are for mock up only we are putting the shock on the top side and the bolts we use are for mock up we will be using grade 10 with lock nuts the thick plate we used was tapped.I'll try to get pictures of the panhard bar setup on Wednesday when I pick up my engine (if I can duck out of work early enough!). |
#20
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![]() Sorry guys, I didn't get a chance to take pictures of the panhard setup when I picked up the engine last week. Last minute stuff at work kept me way late. I'll see what I can do though.
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