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  #11  
Old 06-30-2010, 04:27 PM
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Thanks, Rosie. Got the name changed, right and proper. - Dvae
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  #12  
Old 06-30-2010, 04:39 PM
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Looking at the alternator/generator it must be the later. My concern is not one of performance but what is best. The car runs fine, but just figured that it should be putting out a full 12v not lower. Will check to see what its putting out and go from there. I am sure the resistor wire is in there as the car had points with a stock style coil if it had more juice I would guess the points would have not lasted this long.
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  #13  
Old 06-30-2010, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gold Bird View Post

Looking at the alternator/generator it must be the later.
GEN On Left- ALT On Right



Correct. Points (and matching coil) has voltage dropped to approx. 9V with resistor.
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  #14  
Old 06-30-2010, 07:58 PM
tbirds8 tbirds8 is offline
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With a generator you won't get 12 volts at idle. If you changed the wire going to your dist. you will get 12 when you hit the gas.
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  #15  
Old 06-30-2010, 09:15 PM
Gold Bird Gold Bird is offline
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Generator for sure in my car. So, if I get ride of the resistor wire will I have a full 12volts at the coil?
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  #16  
Old 06-30-2010, 10:10 PM
KULTULZ
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirds8 View Post

With a generator you won't get 12 volts at idle.
I forgot that little factoid. But it should maintain BAT VOLT @ 12.6 VOLT.
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  #17  
Old 07-01-2010, 12:32 AM
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Wow !! I haven't posted here for awhile !!!

My gen puts out 13.2@ idle and spikes to mid 14's when you giv it gas then settles to 13.2-13.4

Never had issues (knock on wood)

What takes the juice is that pwr top.
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  #18  
Old 07-01-2010, 04:59 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gold Bird View Post

Generator for sure in my car. So, if I get ride of the resistor wire will I have a full 12volts at the coil?
If it was my BIRD (oh how I wish), I would in no way want to cut into the harness as you or someone might want to perform a dedicated restoration at some point.

If the car runs good (and it should run much better than with points) I would not worry about it. If it really bothers you (and you are 100% certain the charging system is putting out per specs), I would put a relay in the system bypassing both the IGN SW and resistor and would be easy to remove and cover later.

I am very anal about original (or near original appearance- unless a custom) so my opinion(s) is somewhat limited.
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  #19  
Old 11-04-2010, 01:43 PM
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There is a great site I found that talks about why you likely have less voltage at your coil. Check out http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...-threewire.com
Essentially, there is a voltage drop through any length of wire, the longer the run of wire there is, the larger the voltage drop. There is actually an equation based on the length and gauge of the wire, but I don't know it off the top of my head.
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  #20  
Old 11-04-2010, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post
If it was my BIRD (oh how I wish), I would in no way want to cut into the harness as you or someone might want to perform a dedicated restoration at some point.

If the car runs good (and it should run much better than with points) I would not worry about it. If it really bothers you (and you are 100% certain the charging system is putting out per specs), I would put a relay in the system bypassing both the IGN SW and resistor and would be easy to remove and cover later.

I am very anal about original (or near original appearance- unless a custom) so my opinion(s) is somewhat limited.
Sorta what I did in my '66.

The original coil wire was a resistance one that dropped voltage to the coil, even with the Petronix I was getting plug-fouling in around town driving, stumble-stumble-stumble....

So I used that wire to 'trigger' a hidden relay which then gave full 12 volts to the coil (which I replaced with one designed for electronic ignition)

Now I rarely get any sign of fouling and a short run out on the open road cleans them out - didn't work before my modification.
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