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  #11  
Old 06-22-2010, 09:51 AM
Coral Coral is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackbird60 View Post
I do the caps, for people like me with bad eyes.
Jack, for a quick fix you can press the CTRL and + keys at the same time (count the number of times you press the keys) this will enlarge the print
sometimes forum boards will not allow a post to be entered with the print enlarged, if this happens simply press the CTRL and - keys (the same number of times as you increased them) and the print will return to board standards and allow the post to go through...

Last edited by Coral : 06-22-2010 at 09:54 AM.
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  #12  
Old 06-22-2010, 10:39 AM
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Default Generator Still A Problem- Going Nuts

If anyone is thinking of converting to an alternator, C.R.A.P. again has the mounting bracket available for our 352 engines. Larry has made more of them available. He can be contacted at 815-634-8216. Here is the webpage that has the bracket on it.
http://www-link.com/cgi-bin/odbic.exe/cybercity/scripts/catalog.html?groupname=FordParts&clientno=1681.0
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  #13  
Old 06-22-2010, 03:28 PM
KULTULZ
 
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You can also use later BIRD FE brackets to make it look more as an original appearance-



I believe CRITES RESTORATIONS sells take-off parts-

The early FE block will not have the threaded hole to accept the mounting bolt, but C.R.A.P. offers this rear mounting adapter (or one can be fashioned)-

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  #14  
Old 06-22-2010, 10:15 PM
jackbird60 jackbird60 is offline
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i like that seem simple an effecient with the modern fe bracket. do you know what size belt to use. what type of alternator is used? model and year?

I like that a lot. So if I am looking at this correctly. the adapter piece is side mounted to the engine block, and the other piece of that bracket has a threaded hole were the alternator bolts to .


i like it- very effecient design. I wondering how much for that little adapter bracket from c.r.a.p. and how much for a FE bracket.

Jack
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  #15  
Old 06-22-2010, 11:02 PM
jackbird60 jackbird60 is offline
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Hi Dave,

I did the procedure you mentioned with the headlight. Had to buy one, it had only 2 post. I connected one to the grd, one to the arm. Then I started the car, and touched the field wire to the batt. nothing, nada. So bad gen. I can now take this gen off in my sleep. But not tonight. I do it tomorrow. Probably before work. so I can return it.

thanks,

Jack
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  #16  
Old 06-23-2010, 01:51 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackbird60 View Post

what type of alternator is used? model and year?
Shown is a 1G ALT. They are very common in salvage yards.

The charging circuit harness will have to be upgraded from GEN to ALT.

Just stay away from GM one wires.
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  #17  
Old 06-23-2010, 01:57 AM
KULTULZ
 
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1) Repair the ignition switch,

2) Full diagnostic sequence is in the Shop Manual,

3) A GEN has to be polarized after install and before starting car.

4) The voltage regulator is mechanical and adjustable. Check your manual.
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  #18  
Old 06-23-2010, 08:50 AM
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Jack, do you have a factory Shop Manual??

John
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  #19  
Old 06-23-2010, 09:54 AM
ncbird ncbird is offline
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Default simple tool

to do what was done with the headlight there is an easy tool you can make. Electrical supply and most box stores sell a light bulb socket with two wires with aligator clips. This is so an electrician can see from a distance if a circuit is hot. To adapt to cars all you have to do is go to a marine supply store (west marine or such) and buy a 12v DC bulb. Large boats use them in lamps etc and they screw into the standard 120v light socket. Voila a large test light and cheap. G
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  #20  
Old 06-23-2010, 04:52 PM
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Good suggestion, Grant.
I think all the RV stores have 12-volt bulbs, too. Just be careful you don't accidently put it in a regular 115-v lamp socket.
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