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  #21  
Old 07-03-2006, 01:46 AM
peeeot peeeot is offline
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Default RE: Transmission Doesn't Shift

I'd love to, but it isn't licensed yet :-(
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  #22  
Old 08-02-2006, 05:06 PM
peeeot peeeot is offline
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Default RE: Transmission Doesn't Shift

I've been fiddling with this some more lately. I took the governor out again and thoroughly cleaned it (it was rusty, like the mechanic had said) and soaked it in transmission fluid. It has been shifting consistently since then, but even after linkage adjustments, the shift points are wrong. It normally shifts out of 1st at 26-28 mph (with minimal throttle). The best it's done is 1-2 at 20 mph. the 2-3 shift happens closer to where it should, aka almost immediately after the 1-2, or around 25 mph. I've observed that the quality and timing of the shifts improves as the engine warms up.

So, I plan to drop the pan and do a fluid/filter change sometime soon. The shop manual acts like the filter does not get replaced, but simply cleaned. I can get a new filter from the parts store though. Should I just order a pan gasket, or get the filter kit?
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  #23  
Old 08-02-2006, 05:29 PM
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Alexander Alexander is offline
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Default RE: Transmission Doesn't Shift

You can new filters and pan gaskets. I would replace them.

Alexander
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  #24  
Old 08-02-2006, 06:18 PM
KULTULZ
 
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Default What Model Transmission?

You have an early BIRD but state that the trans is from a 64/65 MERC? If that late, it should have a modulator valve and an intake manifold vacuum source to it. The earlier trans was throttle rod controlled, i.e. there was no modulator valve and the trans was mechanically shift initiated as the later AOD.

If the trans is a later model with a modulator valve, you need to determine if the mechanical shift linkage has been removed (if still present and functional, it will interfere with proper shifting) and how passing gear is initiated (and how passing gear is initiated).

If the governor is as badly rusted (internally) as you say, it should be replaced. Remember, the way a trans shifts was designed for the car it was origionally installed in. You can change shift points with modulator valve adjustment and modifications to the valve body.

http://hotrodders.com/gallery/data/5...Matic_info.gif
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  #25  
Old 08-03-2006, 12:30 AM
peeeot peeeot is offline
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Default RE: What Model Transmission?

Someone had suggested a problem with a vacuum modulator, but my transmission is the original cruise-o-matic with the correct original linkage and everything. The gear selector is very sloppy, as is typical of these cars when they have some miles on them... but it WILL go into gear without too much trouble.

The rust on the governor was almost exlusively on the outside, like on the surface of the counterweight or on the little access cover. Though I'm sure it couldn't hurt to replace it.
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  #26  
Old 08-03-2006, 03:41 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Default RE: What Model Transmission?

>Someone had suggested a problem with a vacuum modulator, but
>my transmission is the original cruise-o-matic with the
>correct original linkage and everything. The gear selector
>is very sloppy, as is typical of these cars when they have
>some miles on them... but it WILL go into gear without too
>much trouble.
>
>The rust on the governor was almost exlusively on the
>outside, like on the surface of the counterweight or on the
>little access cover. Though I'm sure it couldn't hurt to
>replace it.

I'm sorry. It is another member who stated he had a MERC trans.

The shifting will be controlled by throttle linkage. You need to aquire a correct year CRUISE-O-MATIC manual and adjust the linkage and bands. Alexander also sells new detents to tighten up your gear selector linkage.

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  #27  
Old 08-12-2006, 06:51 PM
peeeot peeeot is offline
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Default RE: What Model Transmission?

I have taken the next step and opened up the transmission to do a fluid/filter change and to adjust the bands. While I have it open, I decided to perform the compressed air checks listed in the shop manual and possibly examine the valve body.

As for what I found when I opened the transmission: it looks brand new. Components still have the little dabs of colored paint on them that often appear on new, recently assembled internal pieces. The fluid was not very clean. It is fairly dark and murky. There were some sludge deposits in it, but the filter was mostly clean.

I removed the valve body and began to attempt the air pressure checks. I have a problem right away. When I apply air pressure to the front clutch passage, there is no thud and I don't feel any change when I put my fingers on the front drum. Instead, I hear air moving somewhere higher up in the case. If I put my fingers in the gap between the pan surface and the front servo, I feel the air moving. There is a small hole in the front clutch drum; I can't tell for sure if any of the air is coming from that hole. Also, when I apply pressure to the front clutch passage, I'm supposed to here a sharp click and see movement from the governor. It doesn't do anything. I've tried all the passages to make sure I wasn't doing the wrong one. I've tried manipulating the governor by hand and putting the transmission in different gears. Nothing changes it.

All the other pressure tests I performed performed correctly.

All this is strange to me because I don't have any problems at all with slipping or driving forward, and supposedly the car won't move forward at all without correct engagement of the front clutch.

Am I using too little air pressure? It's enough to make the rear clutch operate. If not that, where is my problem?
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  #28  
Old 08-12-2006, 09:09 PM
peeeot peeeot is offline
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Default RE: What Model Transmission?

Update: I feel pretty dumb, because I just found out that all along I have been mistaking the governor valve weight for the valve itself! The valve has been sticking. I cleaned it up and now it moves freely in the bore, as it's supposed to.

Now, when I apply the air pressure at the front clutch passage, I still get the hissing and the lack of clutch actuation, but at least I can see the governor valve moving inward a bit. Something still isn't right though.
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  #29  
Old 08-13-2006, 01:41 AM
peeeot peeeot is offline
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peeeot
Default RE: What Model Transmission?

Update again!

I have good news and bad news. The bad news is that I found a crack in my transmission case. There is a structural support cast into the case that runs perpendicular to the length of the car, and one of the 2 mounting bolts for the secondary servo bolts into it. That bolt is broken off at the threads, and right next to its hole is the crack in the case support. Someone has "repaired" it with a screw/bolt running perpendicular to the crack. I guess the servo is only supported with one bolt right now. I don't know what if any negative effects the crack is causing.

The good news is that I put everything back together and the car shifts/drives much better! 1-2 comes at about 15 mph, according to the speedo, and 2-3 happens shortly after. It is not totally consistent, but the performance is overall consistently acceptable. It downshifts well, too.... I read that the 352 powered Birds were kind of slow, even in their day, but mine feels like it has well more than enough power in reserve.

Anyone else had a crack like I'm talking about?
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  #30  
Old 08-14-2006, 07:08 PM
58tdactyl 58tdactyl is offline
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Default RE: What Model Transmission?

Ive heard the old cruis-o-matics would crack easily for those who dont come to a stop when in reverse.........and then putting it in gear.
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