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  #1  
Old 04-26-2010, 09:08 PM
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Default Cowl top inner, rusted through

On the previous thread that I wrote included a question about the Cowl drain, I was assuming it was supposed to hang in the wheel well or so on the splash shield but it was not. It was because I thought that cool air goes through that hole (summertime) to bring some fresh air. But I was answered that fresh air goes to the cowl in front of the windshield. My misunderstanding since I knew that cowls on a small Cessna are on the side of the engine or so ha ha. So indeed the question came up 'Where does the water go?' especially if dirt is holding it back and it fails to drain.

Just found out tonight! On the drivers legs!
The Cowl top inner part, I looked it up in the 59 illustr.parts catalog page 769 group number 02018, (the cowl with ventilation grill is 02010).
Tried to copy a part of the drawing from the pdf file of the illustr. catalog but was not possible, came out blank. I then looked in the text catalog to get the ford part number.
its part number: Cowl top inner panel assy S, B8S 6302018-A .

The damage is not that big though, there is a hole about the size of a silver dollar and the whole area needing to be replaced maybe 6 by 3 inches or so on the drivers side between the wiper and the side of the car just above and in front of the ignition switch about.
Best thing for me I think is to just try to cut it out and weld an piece of sheet metal over it as nice as possible I can get to it, but that should be possible. The rest of the inner cowl is in good shape.

Question is, did anybody dealt with the same problem and how did they solve it?
Are there pre-shaped pieces available? or ready made pieces? Or would only be complete inner cows be available.
Replacing the whole inner top cowl is not needed and in order to do that must cut up half the car to get to it.
I can reach it from inside the car to since the dash is out.

regards
Ron
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  #2  
Old 04-26-2010, 09:24 PM
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This is a cramped area to work in, and welding will melt the asphalt coatings on the panel and contaminate your weld. What about riveting or screwing a patch over the hole and using asphaltic roofing cement to seal the patch?
Carl
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Old 04-26-2010, 09:28 PM
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There are adhesives out there so good they fasten body parts together. No welding! Fender work and so on. So if they are adequate there, they might more than do the job in your case.

I would try Eastwoods, for example.

John
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Old 04-26-2010, 09:49 PM
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Yeah Ron, patch it. Does your cowl top look something like this:



Rather than using roofing tar, I would buy a spray can of pickup truck bed liner. It does everything you want and it is easier to work with (no heating). You can brush it, just to work it into gaps. - Dave
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Old 04-27-2010, 06:05 AM
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thanks Dave, no the part is not in this picture, the cowl vent in the picture is 02010 (number not shown here, but its the inner one 02018 so it cannot be seen from the outside.
I will do that, cut away the rusted part with the hole in it and fit 2 pieces of new sheet metal, 1 outside and 1 from the inside under dash, thick enough to be strong and thin enough to bend it a bit when I push it into place. Yes using adhesives is better than welding since its not important for structural strength anyway. and then use some roof bitumen tar of flatbed liner.

thanks and regards
Ron
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Old 04-30-2010, 12:38 PM
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Ron, please post a photo of the rusted area for future reference.
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Old 04-30-2010, 02:45 PM
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Yes, I will post the pics here.
regards
ron

btw,its an advantage working in this old pig-stable with 6 other old U.S. muscle cars, never see anybody and the floor is paradise, full of old discarded U.S. threaded nuts and bolts and pieces of usable sheet metal. I will be fixing the holes this weekend.
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Last edited by kuusamon : 04-30-2010 at 03:01 PM. Reason: add info
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Old 04-30-2010, 04:18 PM
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Thanks for posting those pictures. I'm surprised to see the extent of the rust-thru. Is this the low spot where water would collect if the car was level, or are there several low spots?
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Old 04-30-2010, 04:36 PM
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yes this is the left (driver) side, low side where the water would collect and supposed to drain but if its dirty, mud, etc the water can't run off. Possibly because its the driver side it's always a bit lower than the right side, however I have a hunch that the right side might have a similar weak spot but not as bad. I will strengthen both sides anyway.
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:49 AM
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Thought I write a little update. Its a difficult place to reach but I cut some nice pieces of sheet-metal into shape. Could not make it out of 1 piece because it does not fit through the top part.
Found in the building where I am working sandblasting equipment, a blaster that connects to my air-compressor and a bag full of nice blasting-sand. it has a small nozzle. Have to make sure that no sand goes to the inside of the car. But in that way I can get rid of the rust and see how big the area is I have to fix. Will then use either Zinc(cold galvanizing) spray or rust primer before I glue the new piece in. Then seal it off with the roof sealant so no water can go there ever.
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