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  #11  
Old 11-26-2010, 09:01 PM
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Greg, this setup is missing some very important components (brake pedal rod and firewall bracket), and it is very expensive.

Your Speedway picture shows a booster, a Corvette-style M/C, and a 'bench bleeder' kit with four booster mounting nuts. Old Irish Dave sells these with a brake pedal rod and bracket in CHROME for around US$200, but there are fitment issues with the bracket.

The only complete bolt-on system for Squarebirds, is offered by ABS Power Brake Systems for about US$275 (+s/h) with a zinc plating.

Your original M/C sits very low on the firewall. It's too close to the steering column shift lever for a power booster, but a firewall bracket will offset the booster making it high enough to clear everything just fine. Ford offered this bracket in a dealership conversion kit back in the day.

Seven inches is too small, but a two-stage 8" will work nicely. Don't use a M/C under 1" bore. To help the rear wheel 'lockup tendancy', I installed a new pair of smaller 3/4" wheel cylinders, and got rid of the 7/8" originals. 3/4" (Wagner or Bendix) wheel cylinders are common to many millions of cars of all makes.

Howard Prout is the man. He designed and installed his own bracket and brake pedal rod. He used his setup all summer long:
http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ead.php?t=5023 - Dave
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2010, 09:00 AM
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let's say I only want to replace the single m/c with a dual unit for now...

Will this work if I make a mounting plate for it?
I suppose I would then need an adjustable pushrod?
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2010, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakota Boy View Post
let's say I only want to replace the single m/c with a dual unit for now...
There are lots of ways to do this job, but let's make this conversion as easy as possible.

Question: How many times do you want to plumb your system and re-bleed it?

The idea of having a dual master cylinder is for Safety; one half is plumbed to the front brakes, and the other half operates the rears.

If you go to front disks, you will need a combination proportioning valve plumbed to the front and rear cylinders.

If you add a power booster, your newly fabricated adaptor plate will be replaced by a firewall bracket, your master cylinder will be relocated to a much higher position, and both M/C brake lines will be too short by about 10".

See the point? It is much cheaper/faster/easier to do your whole system at the same time. Do it once, do it right, and be done with it. Every time I did a conversion, I plumbed the whole car. When you get the tools out and start making inverted flares, a couple more to do the entire car makes sense. So do, 'new brake lines'. (BTW, I use rustproof lines and brass fittings because I live in the Rust Belt). I also replaced all three rubber brake hoses.

Now my classic car stops on a dime, just like any modern car. Never any brake fade or pull... I take my hands off the wheel, do a healthy 'emergency stop', and the car stops straight as an arrow. They're fine for the rear, but I will never go back to front drum brakes. - Dave
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  #14  
Old 11-27-2010, 07:40 PM
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Well, I guess the dual M/c will have to wait until NEXT winter when I rebuild the front end.

Last winter: tons and tons of interior work, rebuilt the windows, door seals, many, many things I cant even remember at this point; the whole nine yards.

This winter: everything underneath the car from the firewall back has been removed. Wire-wheeling the underbody and spraying with a thin coat of Permatex undercoat (you shouldve seen how dirty I was this afternoon). Everything underneath will be repainted. And a new gas tank.... And a new gas line.... And all new rear brake lines/hose running up to the ol' single m/c.


This was why I was thinking about ditching the single m/c; but, as you say, it would be best to wait until I can do the discs on the front. Otherwise, I'm just throwing away money on a dual m/c that will be removed and sitting on the shelf once the discs get installed.
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  #15  
Old 11-27-2010, 07:52 PM
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Here's some pics of what's keeping me out of trouble this winter...

Before... and after using the wire-wheel.

some new undercoating where the new gas tank will live....

and a pile of nasty rust, dirt, and undercoating removed by the wire-wheel...
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File Type: jpg DSC02692.jpg (426.9 KB, 114 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02701.jpg (523.8 KB, 114 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02702.jpg (602.4 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02703.jpg (414.5 KB, 111 views)
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  #16  
Old 11-27-2010, 08:32 PM
Richard D. Hord Richard D. Hord is offline
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Hey Greg,
You done a nice job! Nice and clean!
Richard D. Hord
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  #17  
Old 11-27-2010, 11:14 PM
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Default Looks good ...

dirty job, but worth the effort. I really like the color on your Bird. Suits it to a "T" as it were. Are you doing any upgrades to the 9"? Mike
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  #18  
Old 11-28-2010, 09:04 AM
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All the parts, including the 9", got cleaned and painted with black VHT spray-can epoxy.

I removed the ladder bars and cut off the brackets that were welded all over the dang axle housing. All those bars were doing was binding everything up. I'll run the car with just the leafs, then add some traction bars later if needed.
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  #19  
Old 11-28-2010, 12:58 PM
gaffney1951 gaffney1951 is offline
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Default 9" ...

you might want to consider adding a panhard bar to your set up. Mine doesn't have one and I'm getting some wheel rub on high speed cornering. I will be adding one when the new drive line goes in. Mike
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  #20  
Old 11-28-2010, 06:16 PM
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More wire-wheeling today....

It is absolutely NASTY under here... I look like a coal miner right now. A lot of the stuff is "oily", and comes off pretty easy. It's a 1/4" thick in spots. Jeez...did they put it on that thick at the factory????

The drivers side floor board area is more "dry" and that stuff wont come off at all. I'll just wire-wheel it a bit to clean it, and put a light spray of undercoat over it.

One more day and another BIG HOG wire wheel on the angle grinder, and I should be done. Would've done more today, but there were only about 20% of the wires left on the wheel.

This photo was just as I was getting started.
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