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  #1  
Old 02-27-2009, 06:25 PM
1960Bird 1960Bird is offline
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Default Master cyl. bleeding

I have installed a new master cyl. brake lines, all the tubing, shoes and drums...the whole nine yards. I now understand that I was supposed to bleed the master cyl. before it is installed (bench bleeding).
I don't ever remember bleeding the master cyl. before, although it has been 40 years since I did my last brake job. Is this master cyl. bleeding just needed for a dual brake system or do I have to do this too and if so do I have to remove the master cyl.from the car Then how in the heck do I bleed it?

Thanks for your help.
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  #2  
Old 02-27-2009, 06:38 PM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1960Bird View Post
I have installed a new master cyl. brake lines, all the tubing, shoes and drums...the whole nine yards. I now understand that I was supposed to bleed the master cyl. before it is installed (bench bleeding).
I don't ever remember bleeding the master cyl. before, although it has been 40 years since I did my last brake job. Is this master cyl. bleeding just needed for a dual brake system or do I have to do this too and if so do I have to remove the master cyl.from the car Then how in the heck do I bleed it?

Thanks for your help.
The bench bleeding is to get the air out of the master cyl, seems like you could do it on the car, even though it's probably easier on the bench. I have a bench bleed kit that came with a master cynl I did. You just insert that into the master cyl's outlet and run a tube back into the resevoiur and carefully pump the master till you no longer see air in the tube.

I don't remember being told to do it in the past either, but now that is what is done. I assume it's so when you are bleeding the system, you are only worrying about the lines and you have verified you don't have any air in the master itself.

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  #3  
Old 02-27-2009, 06:41 PM
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Since you already have it on the car, try bleeding it from there - nothing to lose.

You could fill it with fluid, disconnect the line from it and you or someone very slowly work the pedal in and out. Watch for bubbles coming up in the supply. Tap on the side with a rubber mallet now and then to dislodge air pockets. At some point you ought to be pushing fluid out the front opening at which point you're on the road to success. Make sure and put rags under it and wash the area afterwards as the DOT 3 will attack paint on you.

John
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Old 02-27-2009, 10:12 PM
1960Bird 1960Bird is offline
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Default Thanks

Thanks for your help...
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  #5  
Old 02-27-2009, 11:21 PM
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rhertel rhertel is offline
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Talking Bleeding

The new method of bleeding a master cylinder is using a plug where the brake line would go in and pump the cylinder until it is you have no play left. With the bird type, you would need to but the fitting with the stop light switch onto the cylinder and plug the brake line fitting. The a little plastic threaded plug. They are very cheap, any good part store would have them.

Rich Hertel
Master A.S.E. Certified Technician
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  #6  
Old 02-28-2009, 11:44 AM
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Steve JohnG's suuggestion about putting rags under the cylinder is a very good point, if you don't want your paint on the firewall to come off with the DOT 3. This is nasty stuff, as I had to to get my firewall redone from the dripping and the master cylinder repainted ( argent ) when I had them bleeded. Lesson learned
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  #7  
Old 02-28-2009, 01:54 PM
1960Bird 1960Bird is offline
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Default Plug the master Cylinder?

Rhertel,
Are you saying that all I need to do is to plug the Master Cylinder brake line fitting and then pump the master cylinder and watch for the air in the reservoir, then when the brake pedal is hard...I'm done. Then I do not need to hook a hose up and run brake fluid back into the master cylinder?

Either way can I do it on the car or must I remove?
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  #8  
Old 02-28-2009, 02:02 PM
KULTULZ
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1960Bird View Post

Are you saying that all I need to do is to plug the Master Cylinder brake line fitting and then pump the master cylinder and watch for the air in the reservoir, then when the brake pedal is hard...I'm done. Then I do not need to hook a hose up and run brake fluid back into the master cylinder?

Either way can I do it on the car or must I remove?
On the car and gently depress the brake pedal so as not to create more air bubbles. Once you have a hard pedal, reconnect the brake line and bleed the line. No need for return hoses to the reservoir.
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Old 02-28-2009, 02:39 PM
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best case have someone pump the pedal for you and stand look down at the resevoir. Have them move it in and out very slowly. You should see streams of bubbles come up to the surface. That's when you're making progress. When you get to the point when the pedal has firmness, you have essentially won. The rest of the exercise is getting air out of the system , but now you have a funcional pump (which is all the pedal and master cylinder really are) to drive new fluid through the system.

What do you guys reading this like for an order to bleed the individual brakes?? My guess would be passenger rear first, then driver's rear then passenger front then finally driver's front. Any thoughts?

John
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  #10  
Old 02-28-2009, 04:38 PM
protourbird protourbird is offline
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The ONLY way you can reliably bleed the master is to bench bleed it with a bench bleed kit. You can pump the pedal until you're blue in the face but if there's air in there only a bench bleed will get it all.
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