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  #11  
Old 01-25-2009, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post
Well, this suggestion is offered in the belief that the ignition and fuel system is in top shape. PERTRONIX II would make a world of difference for all of you guys (IMO).
Have that. New spark plugs and a brand new Fuel tank also, since the original exploded...., and fresh filters all over.
I also checked the amount of fuel in the carb and in the lines once ( after my choke "issues..." ), and if the car have sitting for a week, the fuel just seems to disapear somewhere....
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  #12  
Old 01-25-2009, 08:24 PM
trim code 76 trim code 76 is offline
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Ok, carb pumps gas just fine, so there is no problem with it going dry.....HOWEVER I did find that my choke was open about 1/2" in this cold weather (Garage is not heated right now, too high of gas bill this month). My choke should be basically just about closed now, unless I am missing something. My guess is that is my problem, somehow got out of adjustment. I will have to readjust it in the next couple of days (read the manual, forgot how to...crap). I think that should cure the problem.
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  #13  
Old 01-25-2009, 09:08 PM
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Default Crank, crank, crank.............start

Hi TC,

There was quite a discussion about the proper setting of the butterfly when cold and not having been started for awhile. I know that bcomo and I had a number of discussions about this. My butterfly is open 1/8" of an inch when cold. I just went out in the garage, took off the air filter and checked it again. I think that is the recommended setting, but one of the technically proficient guys should be able to verify that. I think Bart's, like yours, was open a lot more at that time.
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  #14  
Old 01-25-2009, 09:41 PM
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Ray is correct. 90% of carburetors use the 1/8" measurement. A 1/8" drill bit works the best as a gauge. If you still have the original choke you may want to check the bi-metal coil inside the housing and in real cold climates I have seen just slightly rich of 1/8"
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  #15  
Old 01-26-2009, 02:00 PM
trim code 76 trim code 76 is offline
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With regards to the carb, it was just rebuilt using factory parts. so the bimetal spring should be go to go. My shop manual is a little sketchy on the choke adjust ment. Do I use the black cap (loosing the three screws that hold it down) and make the adjustment buy turning it like it states in the manual or there was some linkage that could be adjusted by loosing up a small srew and nut, pinching the choke plate closed then resecurring the screw. How do you guys do it?? Problem solving is one of the joys of having an old car!!
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  #16  
Old 01-26-2009, 03:43 PM
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I found when I left my 60 HT 352 sit for more than a week it would start much easier if I gave it 5 or 6 pumps and NOT engage the choke.Of course I live in Florida.Likely different if you live in the GREAT WHITE NORTH like some of us (Dano)LOL
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  #17  
Old 01-26-2009, 04:30 PM
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Four good hard pumps of the pedal, then hold pedal down half-way when I turn the key works for me every time...of course it'll usually stall unless I keep revving it. I'm interested to see how (if) mine will start after sitting for a YEAR in May.
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  #18  
Old 01-26-2009, 09:00 PM
protourbird protourbird is offline
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Yes, you would use the three screws to turn the black cap to adjust.
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  #19  
Old 01-27-2009, 10:53 AM
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When the choke asm. is properly adjusted, one should be able to turn the key to RUN, FULLY DEPRESS the accelerator pedal (this sets the automatic choke), FULLY RELEASE the accelerator pedal, turn the key to START and the engine should start and run on its' own (fast idle).

The calibration sequence should be fully covered in the manual.

Now this is considering proper tune and fuel delivery.
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  #20  
Old 01-27-2009, 11:04 AM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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I agree with that -- technically.

It would be very interesting to know how many folks on the forum, can depress the pedal one time, and have it start up. No cheating -- original carb, and no electric fuel pump.
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