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  #11  
Old 12-18-2008, 08:52 AM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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The first one is made by Ampro and shown on OReilly's web site for $52.95. Ampro shows it as professional grade on their site, but I don't know. http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3492

I found the second one on E-Bay made by ZDMAK for $17.50
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tie-R...81492691QQrdZ1

The drawing gives the dimensions which show the thickness of the jaws as 3/16", width of the inside opening as 3/4", and depth as 7/8" http://www.tooladdiction.com/TOOL%208302.pdf

I can take some measurements and see if that one might fit.
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  #12  
Old 12-18-2008, 11:05 AM
KULTULZ
 
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I guess what I am asking is how much do you want to pay for a tool and if you desire to have that tool for future use or just try to rent one.

Click here for a complete set and this is a quality manufacturer-

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/KD-41690.html

The price is right.

This is the place to buy tools as they have all differing qualities at bargain prices.
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  #13  
Old 12-18-2008, 05:33 PM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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Thanks for that Tool Warehouse link.

Most of my tools are Snap-On, and I like quality tools. But honestly, I know that I'll just use whatever it is to get that ball stud free one time and that's it. So, if I can rent one that works that's fine.

Sears also stocks KD tools, and shows a listing for some of the pullers individually.

I need to get under the car when the weather breaks, and take a few measurements to see what will fit in there.
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  #14  
Old 12-18-2008, 05:47 PM
tbirds8 tbirds8 is offline
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I broke 3 pitman arm pullers trying to take it off. I had to go with a pickle fork and the Big Red Wrench. At least i don't need a steering box. which I thought was going to give up.
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  #15  
Old 12-18-2008, 08:35 PM
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Great ---- Just Great !!!!

Did it ruin the ball stud socket? Were you able to rebuild it OK?
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Last edited by bcomo : 12-18-2008 at 08:56 PM.
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  #16  
Old 12-19-2008, 02:08 PM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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I just got off of the Phone with Randy Meyer from Precision Products. He rebuilds our control valves for $90 (if it doesn't need any hard parts). Take a minute to look at his web page and the description of what he does to bebuild it.

http://precisionproductssteering.com/

The good thing for me is that he is about 10 miles away from me in San Antonio.

Next, we talked about how to get the ball stud off. He said that the Jaw type pullers have broken when he's used them too. He said that he now uses the type of puller below.



The other important thing, Randy said, was to use an impact gun on the bolt of the tool. He said that using an impact gun hammers the bolt to loosen the stud without any side to side motion (which ruins the ball stud socket).

Randy has offered to loan me his puller -- which I thought was a really nice thing to do. I already have a compressor, and it just so happens that I'm getting an impact gun under the tree this year

By the way, I checked a few T-Bird parts houses and found the cost on a rebuilt control valve to be getting out of sight. Anywhere from $200 to $300 WITH a rebuildable core. If your core isn't rebuildable, then add another $100 to the cost.

Bird Nest lost their rebuilder, and doesn't even offer the control valve any more. And the internal metal "hard" parts to rebuild them are getting harder to find. So be careful getting this thing off.

I'll post something when I can try to get this done.
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  #17  
Old 12-19-2008, 03:11 PM
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Thanx for the research Bart!

Looks like I will be buying that style of puller now....
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  #18  
Old 12-19-2008, 03:40 PM
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Gary:

Let's see how this works first.

I did find the same style tool on E-Bay, and it was the only one that had a PDF drawing with dimensions. Not to buy, just for reference.

Item number: 170281492691
PDF File http://www.tooladdiction.com/TOOL%208302.pdf

I made a mock-up of the jaws with the correct drawing thickness of 3/16 out of cardboard. Then I slid under the car and guess what -- it fit in there perfectly.

So, for now, this PDF file gives good dimensions of what will get between the ball stud and the pitman arm end. There is enough room for the rest of the tool to fit if it's slid in from the side.

I'll see what the brand and dimensions are of the tool that Randy loans me -- and if it works.
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  #19  
Old 12-19-2008, 06:41 PM
KULTULZ
 
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OTC makes the tool and being the high bucks guy I am... ...is what I buy for specialty tools.

That site you gave is very informative...



Let us know how it all comes out.
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  #20  
Old 12-29-2008, 09:33 PM
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Sorry I'm late to the party.

Yeah, I had a heck of a time with mine (Here's the thread, FYI). Tried the puller you tried and another, I think, with the same results. Tried the pickle fork too, but was afraid to hit it hard enough to make a difference, thankfully.

In the end, it was Alexander's advice that proved to be the best:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexander View Post
I know these control valves are a pain to get out after 40 plus years. Soak and tap. Soak overnight if need be. Tap, tap, tap and suddenly it just breaks loose.
After a lot of tapping it suddenly popped off like it had just been resting in place all along. One tap and it seemed to be welded, the next it was free. Frustrating, but there ya go.

I ended up with threads like that pic that KULTULZ posted. Worse, actually, the cotter pin hole was oval.

Take your time, relax, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, tap. ... tap, tap, tap - POP! Be patient and persistent, it'll come off.

Oh, and I seem to remember that I got new sockets with my rebuild kit, but don't recall for sure.
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