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  #1  
Old 12-16-2008, 07:55 PM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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Default Control Valve Power Steering Removal

Has anyone removed the pitman arm link at the ball stud on the PS control valve without having to beat the ball stud with a hammer and ruin the control valve?

I'm going to have to remove mine in the near future, and a few months ago, I tried a small puller, but it was still too big to get in between the pitman arm link and the ball stud.

Is there another tool (besides a bigger hammer) to try on it?
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  #2  
Old 12-16-2008, 08:10 PM
FeFranco FeFranco is offline
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I have not done it, but wouldn't/couldn't you use some type of puller. Otherwise I would see about having a shop do it. With the right tools it shouldn't take them long.
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  #3  
Old 12-16-2008, 08:32 PM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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I tried a small tie rod puller, but the jaws were too fat to get between the ball stud and the pitman arm link where they connect. I might see about buying a small tie rod puller and grinding it down to fit in there.

I can't trust a shop to do it, because they'll either use a big hammer or a pickle fork -- that will ruin the ball stud socket.
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  #4  
Old 12-17-2008, 04:30 AM
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  #5  
Old 12-17-2008, 07:12 AM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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Gary:

Thanks for that info. Unfortunately, I've been there, and done that. After trying that exactly as described, I gave up on using a hammer.

That proceedure may have worked on removing the ball stud in 1960, but it doesn't come close to getting the job done 48 years later.

I think that dgs (Doug) hammered on that thing for days, and soaking it in PB Blaster as well. It wound up ruining the ball stud socket on his.

There has got to be something in the way of a puller that will fit in there and press it off.

If not, then it might be easier to use a puller to remove the entire pitman arm and control valve from the steering box as an assembly.
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  #6  
Old 12-17-2008, 04:42 PM
KULTULZ
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcomo View Post
Gary:

Thanks for that info. Unfortunately, I've been there, and done that. After trying that exactly as described, I gave up on using a hammer.

That proceedure may have worked on removing the ball stud in 1960, but it doesn't come close to getting the job done 48 years later.

I think that dgs (Doug) hammered on that thing for days, and soaking it in PB Blaster as well. It wound up ruining the ball stud socket on his.

There has got to be something in the way of a puller that will fit in there and press it off.

If not, then it might be easier to use a puller to remove the entire pitman arm and control valve from the steering box as an assembly.
It looks like to me, one would damage the dust cover if a puller was used. Can the dust cover be moved/rotated to get the ears there or does the repair kit come with a dust shield? Can you describe (or photo) the puller you have tried? There are several types. Maybe I can help you identify one that will work.
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  #7  
Old 12-17-2008, 08:20 PM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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The dust cover takes up about 1/16" of space, but can't be moved to get a better "bite" with the pulley ears. Even if it is damaged, it can be bought as a separate item from Concourse for $4.50 You do NOT want to damage the internal socket that the ball stud rides in. That piece is not in a repair kit, so you are SOL if you hammer on it and ruin it.



The main problem is that there is only about 1/4" of space between the ball stud and the pitman arm link. The pulley ears are thicker than that; so the ears slip off when it's tightened.

This is the type of tie rod end puller that I tried. The ears are too thick, and the width is not adjustable. It slips off very easily.



I remember seeing one somewhere that had adjustable jaws, where the jaws actually tightened as more pressure is applied to the jaws. BUT, it would have to be small enough, and the jaws thin enough to get in there. I would grind down the jaws if necessary.

That type of puller might work if we could find it.
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  #8  
Old 12-17-2008, 08:48 PM
FeFranco FeFranco is offline
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So, would one of these work? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10...3&gobutton.y=8
Do you have any tool rental places where you live.
What you want to do is not easy. No trustworthy frontend shops out there?
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  #9  
Old 12-17-2008, 09:36 PM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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One of those might work Franco. It's hit and miss, and I'd have to take a few measurements before I went out to buy one. The jaws have to be able to get in between that small space and grip tight.

Tool rental might work if I can find one that has small tools for rent. Auto Zone only has the ones that wont work for this.

I really don't want to pay more than $50 for one.

I also found these on line:










This one looks really good --thin jaws.




This one also -- the jaws can be tightened to keep the grip.

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  #10  
Old 12-18-2008, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcomo View Post


The dust cover takes up about 1/16" of space, but can't be moved to get a better "bite" with the pulley ears. Even if it is damaged, it can be bought as a separate item from Concourse for $4.50 You do NOT want to damage the internal socket that the ball stud rides in. That piece is not in a repair kit, so you are SOL if you hammer on it and ruin it.



The main problem is that there is only about 1/4" of space between the ball stud and the pitman arm link. The pulley ears are thicker than that; so the ears slip off when it's tightened.

This is the type of tie rod end puller that I tried. The ears are too thick, and the width is not adjustable. It slips off very easily.



I remember seeing one somewhere that had adjustable jaws, where the jaws actually tightened as more pressure is applied to the jaws. BUT, it would have to be small enough, and the jaws thin enough to get in there. I would grind down the jaws if necessary.

That type of puller might work if we could find it.
The puller you have shown is actually a Pitman Arm puller and that explains the thick ears.

You need one of two shown in your next post-

This is the most useful.



This model is for very tight spaces, usually sub-compact-



Do you have a source for either? They are available in two grades, USA professional grade or off-shore non-professional grade. Which would you prefer and do you want an on-line source?
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