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  #11  
Old 08-20-2008, 01:01 AM
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I've brought mine (safely - in a straight line- with little or no effort) down to a halt from 80 mph. My rotors are stainless 11.2"

She stops !!! It is a different feel in the brake pedal. It's a little more effort than you would expect. Not much. What I like is NO steering wheel pull. And the back brakes never get hot any more. I'm sure the wire wheels help. A lot of open air to the drums.


Granada spindles will work (IF) you get them off a V8 Granada. Those came w/11" rotors. Just don't use 10's.

The Honda 750 analogy is a good one. Although in all fairness, the CBF900 I had (years ago) had dual discs and you could stand that thing on it's nose. It didn't even need a rear brake.
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  #12  
Old 08-20-2008, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdbrain View Post
Ok, is there a after market company that makes a bolt on kit for the t-bird(square bird) I just put a system on a studebaker so it's not out of the question. I have power drum brakes and they scare me. It feels like the car speeds up before it slows down. They work however after driving my pontiac T/A it's system is fitted to the car. It makes me think these brakes could be alot better.
I used a kit from: http://www.abspowerbrake.com/5860tbird.html

no issues and had it running in about 1.5 - 2 hours
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  #13  
Old 08-25-2008, 12:37 AM
Gearhead Gearhead is offline
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Well, just got done breaking in the brakes earlier today. All I can say is WOW! It stops in less than half the distance the **** drums used to.

For you guys who are skeptical, Granada rotors also come in almost 11" diameter (which I'm using). I'm not driving the thing in a performance road racing course, either. It's a cruiser.

(BTW, I'm an engineer and own a business that makes racing blocks and supercharger rotors for some of the fastest cars in the country; this setup, done properly, is safe and reliable.)

Now, if I was going to drop a 1,200 HP turbo'd street motor in, well, this would NOT be the brake setup I'd go with........
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  #14  
Old 08-25-2008, 10:19 AM
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So what did u go with for a master cylinder & pwr. brake booster?
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  #15  
Old 08-25-2008, 03:18 PM
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Gearhead
Did you use the stock 14" Rims
If possible would you list all the different parts you use to do the job.
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  #16  
Old 08-27-2008, 12:32 AM
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Ditto!! Please list as many details as possible!!

I reiterate: if anyone is going to the trouble and expense of changing to disks then you might as well end up with really excellent braking! That is the goal; disks are the means to that end.

John
Diskless 1958 Hardtop
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  #17  
Old 08-27-2008, 02:34 AM
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You can run 14's. Just not the stock ones.
The Granada M/Cyl will work. My setup is a little different. Knowing what I know now (ow many times have we said THAT before??!!)
I'd have gone with the 11" Granada setup. I'd have saved HUNDREDS of dollars . . . And not have had all the headaches & expense of swaybar he// !!!!!
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  #18  
Old 08-27-2008, 09:00 AM
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John
Would it be possille for you to give us the parts list you used for your brakes, you said that you used 11" Granada spindles,did you also use Granada calipaters, what Year Granada ? and you did not have to change the swaybar and what about the 14" Rims what is the back set. I would like to change 59 over this winter,but being a barn yard mechinic there is alot I don"t know any help will be greatly needed.
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  #19  
Old 08-27-2008, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob M View Post
John

Would it be possille for you to give us the parts list you used for your brakes, you said that you used 11" Granada spindles,did you also use Granada calipaters, what Year Granada ? and you did not have to change the swaybar and what about the 14" Rims what is the back set. I would like to change 59 over this winter,but being a barn yard mechinic there is alot I don"t know any help will be greatly needed.
Gentlemen-

The work has already been done for you-

http://www.squarebirds.org/disc_brake.htm

The article needs to be upgraded to bring the illustrations back.

If you stay with the 11" rotor, you can use 14" steel wheels from a 73/74 TORINO (with 11" instead of 12" rotors) to retain proper wheel/tire size.

You can purchase (aftermarket) a dual 7" booster that will not look too badly on a restoration. Please either use a FORD MC or when ordering specify a FORD MC as part of the kit. Nothing looks worse (to me) than to open a hood on a nice restoration/custom and see DELCO-MORON parts...

Shown in the Ill is a GM MC.

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  #20  
Old 08-27-2008, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post
Gentlemen-

If you stay with the 11" rotor, you can use 14" steel wheels from a 73/74 TORINO (with 11" instead of 12" rotors) to retain proper wheel/tire size.
ADDENDUM-

I did extensive brake changeover reseach a few years ago to help guys on a HOT ROD FORUM, but never pieced everything together.

Quote:
The rotor hub size was increased on the 1972 model run (TORINO). So you will either have to have the snout machined down to accept the early wheels (must be disc brake wheels...special offset) or find a set of original intermediate 14" wheels D3OZ 1007-A (these were used on low trim TORINOS).

The 14'" disc brake wheel I have described above (D3OZ 1007-A) measures 14 x 5 1/2". There was also a 14 x 6" wheel available (stamped steel) D6OZ 1007-A. This will give you a little more tread stability.

Just to help you guys that want to retain the 14" look on your early iron.
In addition, one can use the wheels off the donor car if the wheel is wide enough for your needs. This is why I referenced TORINO wheels earlier.
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