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  #321  
Old 07-30-2013, 08:49 AM
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Dave - that's something I hadn't really considered. Could just limit the range of the spindles so they don't get to the point where the rotor scrapes. I'll bet the Granada and Tbird limit bumps were not in the same place. It takes "40 Acres" to turn this thing around already so would like to find another solution if possible but thanks for the idea.

Your Galaxie has Granada spindles doesn't it? Don't the Tbird and Galaxie share the same upper and lower A-arms? Do you have the backing plates have you ever noticed your rotors scraping them in sharp turns?

Looking further my Granada backing plates have a "scoop" for pulling air on to the rotors (which is the main reason I put them back on). Looks like the scoops could be contacting the sway bar and distorting the backing plate at the bottom causing the scrape. I'm wondering if the setup Grant is working on with Versailles spindles will have the same problem. Don't think there are many folks out there with the Granada spindles on the Tbird for comparison. I need to get my camera in there and see if I can tell what's going on but I'm itching to drive the car for a while and quit trying to "prefect" it.

Eric
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  #322  
Old 07-30-2013, 01:50 PM
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Granada spindles are wonderful. I have never heard one complaint about their strength or performance. They fit a host of Ford cars and decades of history proved that Ford got disk brakes 'right the first time'. Aftermarket companies reproduce these 'Mustang' spindles, today. They also have no clue as to how many classic Fords these spindles fit.

I installed them on our '55 Customline, which have slightly different and very LONG lower "A" arms. I used the Granada back plates with the elephant ear air scoops.

Our '55 is a full size Ford Fordor with a very long wheelbase and a full frame. The car came with 15" tires. Fairlanes came with 16" wheels as std equipment.

1955 was a transitional period in Ford Car history:
It was the last year Ford used 6 volt, POS ground.
Thunderbird was introduced in '55 (on a full-size Ford frame).
Fairlane (with the iconic 'check mark' on the side) was introduced in '55.

Our '59 Galaxie has the same spindles as Squarebirds. I kept those spindles and retrofit Scarebird brackets in place of the OEM drum setup. I would have used Granada spindles but I couldn't find a set cheaper than the Scarebird brackets at the time. - Dave
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  #323  
Old 07-30-2013, 06:14 PM
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Default mmmmm interesting

Dave may be on to the problem. I will look at my stock set of spindles in the shop and see if I can make a determinaion on the stops. Eric what is rubbing? is it the inner dust shield against the rotor and is it at the bottom of the shield or can you tell? My scoops are rubber and pop right out so if that is the problem I can rectify it.
Grant
Ps one thing leads to another. Went to put the self adjusters on the back and didn't like the job a shop had done on the brakes. I now have new drums, brake shoes, all the springs, while you have it apart led to new axle bearings and seals. But hey I know what is in there now.
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  #324  
Old 07-30-2013, 07:33 PM
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Pulled a stock spindle and checked the stop on the steering arm. Crawled under the car (its on jack stands) and have the following observations. The steering arms on the Versailles are shorter and sit higher in relation to the lower A frame. When turned hard over my arms don't touch the stop on the A frame. This allows the wheel to turn far enough for the scoop to hit the sway bar. In fact I can get the tire to touch the bar. I have the aftermarket HD sway bar for reference. I will be building stops. Hope I didn't muddy the water but thanks Dave.
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  #325  
Old 07-31-2013, 03:25 PM
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BINGO!
So, I'm thinking... if your OEM spindle arms were too high, the tires would scrape as well. Ok, that's why stops are absolutely necessary.

I really like the idea that the arms are shorter because they are more responsive to steering wheel motion, with fewer turns lock-to-lock. The down side is, you need more power steering boost in parking lots. Even so, I would prefer the shorter arms because they are more compatible with rack and pinion gears.

Glad you got this mystery solved, Grant. Maybe you can have a small 'tab' welded to the existing stops. If we were closer I would weld them for you. - Dave
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  #326  
Old 08-01-2013, 05:48 AM
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Thanks for the offer Dave, I do wish we were closer. I bought a baby mig a while back just for this kind of project. It is a 120v so I can take it to the car. My other mig is 240 and a beast. I will take a look at an adjustable. stop along the lines of jeep first.
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  #327  
Old 03-09-2014, 08:21 PM
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Default steering arm stop

Well I have dropped all the steering so i can send the cylinder, control valve and steering box out to Red Head
steering in Seattle. They built the box in my F250 and are big with the superduty crowd. With that done it was simple to get my steering stops installed. I turned the wheels till the arm hit and marked the current stop. I then drilled and tapped a 5/16 hole in the current stop. With that done I can screw in a bolt with a nut to lock it down. My new stop is adjustable and will allow me to get as much as possible and still avoid the rub. This appears to be a problem only with the Granada/Versailles spindles.
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File Type: jpg steering stop2.jpg (42.2 KB, 284 views)
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  #328  
Old 03-10-2014, 01:21 AM
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I love it, Grant...
Good work! - Dave
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