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  #311  
Old 06-28-2013, 05:00 PM
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Eric, have you ever had somebody crank the steering from static to hard right turn position while you watched the bottom arm/back-plate area to see how much movement is taking place?

And then had another person 'bounce' the suspension on that side to simulate braking while turning?

It's just that in my eyes that seems to be an awful lot of unwanted movement.
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  #312  
Old 06-29-2013, 07:56 AM
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Eric shoot me an email if you want any comparison photos or measurements from my Versailles set up.
Because of your cautionary words I made a spindle centric table to do a spindle comparison before proceeding. I don't think the spindle sits higher on the ball joint because if it did you couldn't get the castle nut and cotter key to work. The original spindle had a thicker arm so the lower surface of the arm was lower on the ball joint compressing the grease boot. I still have an original spindle set if we need them for measurements also.
Grant
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  #313  
Old 07-02-2013, 01:59 PM
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Replaced my lower ball joint but of course it was raining when I finished so I didn't want to do a test drive.

Here is the clearance full left turn - the rotor doesn't rub on a left turn. (viewed from the front)


Here is the clearance centered (viewed from the front)


then clearance full right turn - where it normally rubs in a hard turn. I don't see a noticeable difference in clearance between the old and new ball joint. (viewed from the back)
The test will be driving it I guess.


(may be hard to tell but clearance is about the same in all positions - more in the first pic but by only a little bit)

Grant - is your car on the road? Curious if yours is not rubbing what the difference is. Thought the Versailles and Granada spindles were the same. You are probably right about the spindle placement - it may just be the difference in the bottom thickness. My Granada spindle does sit pretty low on the Tbird joint because the hole for the cotter pin is almost too high. I use a washer between the castle nut and spindle so that the nut and cotter pin are lined up normally. That could mean that the shop that modified my lower spindle hole to accept the Tbird ball joint could have gone a bit far but both sides are the same. They are a reputable shop and supposedly made the modification before. It may also be the alignment that is causing the rubbing. There are more spacers on the upper A-arm than with the original A-arm. Still planning on getting those settings and posting because the car drives so nice and feels very stable.

Tom - haven't found any one brave enough to sit on the front fender and look while I'm driving along - heh. That's a good idea - not sure one person could bounce it hard enough but it's worth a try - it only rubs in a pretty hard cornering situation.
I could turn it into a right turn and put the spring on a stand then spin the wheel. If it rubs when I bounce it that would tell me it's just the geometry of the Granada spindle on the Tbird suspension and not movement of the ball joint - yes that's worth a try.

Thanks,
Eric
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  #314  
Old 07-02-2013, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKheld View Post
...Thought the Versailles and Granada spindles were the same. ...My Granada spindle does sit pretty low on the Tbird joint because the hole for the cotter pin is almost too high. I use a washer between the castle nut and spindle so that the nut and cotter pin are lined up normally. That could mean that the shop that modified my lower spindle hole to accept the Tbird ball joint could have gone a bit far but both sides are the same...
Eric, I think you're on to something here. The difference between Granada and Versailles is that the bottom hole is already reamed for large size ball joints in the Lincoln spindle. That's the only difference.

Your shop may have cocked the reamer as they over drilled this tapered hole. Ball joints tend to take up any deviation because they swivel. That doesn't mean the new hole isn't closer to your lower "A" arm...

I reamed my own holes in my Granada spindles, and they turned out perfect. I used a good drill press but I can easily see how someone could make the angle different. These spindles are soft steel and easy to machine. - Dave
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  #315  
Old 07-04-2013, 05:28 AM
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Eric, I am not on the road yet so can't answer the rub question. Hope to wrap up my work under the car soon. Finished headers, sway bars, new fuel n brake lines just have new tank left. My spindle arm did not require any spacers top or bottom. The castle nut/cotter key aligned the way I would expect. Based on your input I specifically only wanted Versailles spindles. That said my clearance looks just like yours. Grant
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  #316  
Old 07-04-2013, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byersmtrco View Post

Mine was a "kit". I was in uncharted waters. Drum vs Disc. No comparison. Now I've had newer cars w/drum brakes that were ok. The drums on a 60 are too small. As prev stated the same as a 57. Almost 1000 lbs lighter.

All I know is, I can stop in 1/2 the distance, safely, no wheels locking, no steering wheel pull, no nuthin. I have driven down steep grades.

As we know with a cruise-o-Anchor, you can't drop her in 2nd to slow you down (only low) so ya gotta ride em.

I got to the bottom of Hwy 9 ( a road in the Santa Cruz Mountains for all you non Calif folks) It's a fairly steep road. I stopped in Saratoga and my brakes weren't hot. They were warm, but not hot. Before, you'd come off that hill and those drums would be smokin!!! You could light a cigarette on one of the rear hubcaps.
With the CRUISEOMATIC (FX/MX/HX), one can use engine braking on a downgrade by moving the shift lever into L. This will engage and lock into 2nd gear. If vehicle speed drops to twenty-five MPH, the trans will then engage 1st gear and will remain in 1st until the shift lever is moved to either D1 or D2 position.
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  #317  
Old 07-05-2013, 11:25 AM
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Would like all your thoughts on whether to only do disc brakes on the front? Or, do them on all 4 wheels?

I've read in the Members Only section that some folks just do the fronts because that is where most of the stopping power comes from.
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  #318  
Old 07-05-2013, 02:04 PM
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Typically on disc/drum brakes 80% of the braking is done by the front disc brakes. That is why the rear brakes last so long on a combo system. I have a friend that has 2 1960 Birds and one as 4 wheel disc and the other has front discs only. I will ask him if he really feels the 4 wheel setup is worth the extra cost and work.
Nyles
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  #319  
Old 07-29-2013, 01:39 PM
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update on my Granada backing plate rubbing/scraping problem:

The new ball joint (ASP brand?) looked great and had a thicker base than the original replacement I had in the A-arm. The bolts supplied in the kit were too short by about 1/4 inch and the nuts were too large to fit on top. Bought new bolts and nuts and installed the new ball joint.

Didn't help the rubbing of the backing plate against the rotor any - in fact it made it worse. Now it rubs in even a slight turn and sometimes in a straight line.

Took the ball joint out that I had just bought and re-installed the old replacement ball joint that I had in there originally (Kanter?). Beat the end of the A-arm back some before installing the old ball joint. Seems to have helped the rubbing a little to re-shape the end of the A-arm but still rubs on the opposite side of the turn in a sharp turn either direction. (left side rubs in a right hand turn and right side rubs in a sharp left turn).

I have a camera that I'll mount in there later this fall and see what is causing the suspension to move enough to push the backing plate into the rotor. Hard to imagine since it's all new. Really think it's just the different geometry on the Granada spindles. Until then I'm just going to enjoy the car for a while and not worry about a little rubbing. Might be cured by installing a wider shim behind the rotor on the axle but the camera view should tell.


Eric
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  #320  
Old 07-29-2013, 02:12 PM
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Eric, the original spindles have stops (one on the RH and one on the LH side):


You can see them more clearly on the lower "A" arms than you can on the spindles. Could it be that your Granada spindle stops need to be 'built-up"? If so and by the sounds of your situation, it wouldn't need much more metal. - Dave
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