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  #1  
Old 09-04-2013, 02:07 PM
6gunn 6gunn is offline
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Default Disc brake conversion

Hello All,

I'm new here and I'm restoring a '59 convertible.

Has anyone on the forum completed a disc brake conversion on their bird using the spindles from the late 70's Ford Granada?

I would like to do this conversion if it's safe.

Thanks, John
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2013, 02:25 PM
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byersmtrco byersmtrco is offline
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Do a search.
Endless posts on this.
I did the Stainless Steel Brake Corp kit.
HUGE PITA !!!!!
Lot's more available now.
The Granada kit will work. Make SURE it's a V8
Granada so they're 11" rotors. DON'T use 10"
rotors.
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1960 Convertible (Orig owner)
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2013, 05:07 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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John, did you buy any parts yet? There are two ways to get disk brakes. Depending on how much you spend on Granada spindles, you may be better off with Scarebird brackets that bolt onto your OEM spindles.

In other words, if you can get Granada spindles cheap, like under $200 for both, go that route. If not, the Scarebird brackets are far easier because you don't separate any joints so, no need to alter your front end alignment.

An important question is, do you have an original booster under your hood? Let us know. - Dave
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  #4  
Old 09-04-2013, 05:24 PM
DKheld DKheld is offline
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I converted mine about 11 years ago using Granada spindles.

Biggest issue using the Granada spindles is alignment - it takes a good shop a few tries to make the car feel right. One of these days I'll get my car to an alignment shop and post the specs so folks doing this conversion will at least have a starting point.

Changing the spindles is the EASY part. It's splitting the lines, upgrading the master cyl, adding a proportioning or combination valve, making provisions for the brake light switch (either fluid or electric conversion) choosing the right booster (depends on factory A/C or not) and modifying the bottom hole on the Granada spindles to accept the Tbird ball joint that will take time.

Don't let all that seem impossible - It's much easier now than 11 years ago but still one of the best modifications you can make to these heavy cars if it's done right.

The Scarebird brackets are easier by far. No mods to the spindle, uses the original spindle and standard Tbird alignment specs (or a slight change for radial tires).

Mine has an annoying habit of pushing the backing plate into the rotor in a sharp turn at speeds above 20 mph. There is another member that is using Lincoln Versailles spindles that may solve that problem and the bottom hole is the right size - we'll see when he gets it finished.

These are a few of the big discussions but there are plenty more - as John mentions - just search on Disc's or Disc Brakes.

Eric

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ht=disc+brakes

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ht=disc+brakes

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ht=disc+brakes

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ht=disc+brakes


This is my conversion







edit - yeah - the short version - what Dave said....

Oh and - used to come to West Jefferson Ohio quit a bit. My Uncle ran a rock quarry around there somewhere. Lots of fun when I was a kid.

Last edited by DKheld : 09-04-2013 at 05:40 PM.
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  #5  
Old 09-05-2013, 08:53 AM
cubbear cubbear is offline
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Default disk brakes

put new parts in drum brakes save a lot of time and money
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2013, 11:53 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Do you want solid surface or cross drilled? Single piston or four? Natural finish, black, red, or polished?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...el/thunderbird
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  #7  
Old 09-05-2013, 04:08 PM
6gunn 6gunn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
John, did you buy any parts yet? There are two ways to get disk brakes. Depending on how much you spend on Granada spindles, you may be better off with Scarebird brackets that bolt onto your OEM spindles.

In other words, if you can get Granada spindles cheap, like under $200 for both, go that route. If not, the Scarebird brackets are far easier because you don't separate any joints so, no need to alter your front end alignment.

An important question is, do you have an original booster under your hood? Let us know. - Dave
I haven't bought spindles yet. I've watched a couple of spindle auctions on Ebay, but without more info I didn't bid on them. They're in the $150-300 per pair range lately.
The Granada spindles seem to work well on Mustangs because they are always mentioned in the auctions.
I've seen the Scarebird brackets before, but I didn't know how well they worked. They look a bit light weight, and I want to make sure whatever I do is safe for my passengers, other drivers, and the Tbird as well.
I wondered if there is a kit that includes everything needed.

John
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  #8  
Old 09-05-2013, 04:46 PM
6gunn 6gunn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKheld View Post
I converted mine about 11 years ago using Granada spindles.

Biggest issue using the Granada spindles is alignment - it takes a good shop a few tries to make the car feel right. One of these days I'll get my car to an alignment shop and post the specs so folks doing this conversion will at least have a starting point.

Changing the spindles is the EASY part. It's splitting the lines, upgrading the master cyl, adding a proportioning or combination valve, making provisions for the brake light switch (either fluid or electric conversion) choosing the right booster (depends on factory A/C or not) and modifying the bottom hole on the Granada spindles to accept the Tbird ball joint that will take time.

Don't let all that seem impossible - It's much easier now than 11 years ago but still one of the best modifications you can make to these heavy cars if it's done right.

The Scarebird brackets are easier by far. No mods to the spindle, uses the original spindle and standard Tbird alignment specs (or a slight change for radial tires).

Mine has an annoying habit of pushing the backing plate into the rotor in a sharp turn at speeds above 20 mph. There is another member that is using Lincoln Versailles spindles that may solve that problem and the bottom hole is the right size - we'll see when he gets it finished.

These are a few of the big discussions but there are plenty more - as John mentions - just search on Disc's or Disc Brakes.

Eric

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ht=disc+brakes

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ht=disc+brakes

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ht=disc+brakes

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ht=disc+brakes


This is my conversion







edit - yeah - the short version - what Dave said....

Oh and - used to come to West Jefferson Ohio quit a bit. My Uncle ran a rock quarry around there somewhere. Lots of fun when I was a kid.
Thanks for all the info, Eric. You're conversion looks great.
John
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  #9  
Old 09-05-2013, 06:16 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6gunn View Post
I haven't bought spindles yet..
Then your options are open. Like Eric said, you will need to open the bottom ball joint holes to match your Squarebird ball joints. Depending on what wheels you buy, you may need to turn down the snouts on the rotors, too.

I use both systems and am equally happy with them but you need to know, if you do the Scarebird system, all parts are bolt-on, no machining, no geometry change and you get to use OEM Squarebird bearings (races, seals, dust caps) in Mustang rotors. Granada bearings are different size... just so you know.

You didn't mention whether you have a booster under your hood or not. - Dave
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My latest project:
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
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  #10  
Old 09-05-2013, 06:56 PM
Sherman Sherman is offline
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Hello, I completed this exact project last month. I purchased a kit for about a grand and although I did have some bumps in the road with the company, in the end everything came together and the stopping power has dramatically improved. Moreover, drive-ability is by far much better. In addition to this, the double piston M/C upgrade is much safer option then the original.

In 2006 I restored the car and simply rebuilt the drum brakes. I wish I would have upgraded back then.

The kit I purchased this summer worked with 14" K/H wheels and an A/C plenum. It has a 8" booster, 11" rotors and single piston calipers. It required no alignment and other than waiting for the correct parts to arrive I could have finished the job in about 2-3 days.

Just my two cents: Do the upgrade now and you'll enjoy driving the car more.
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