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  #11  
Old 06-08-2008, 12:07 AM
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1st off, the sluggish part isn't the carb. You need to be sure the dist timing is right. That also means the valve timing has to be right. Timing chain? Excessive wear, or it's jumped a tooth. Eliminate those 1st.
Make sure the rotor is on #1 when the piston is at true TDC.

Quick note; the vac port on mine RH (Pass) side is ported vaccum.

Next, make sure your advance mechinism in the dist is working properly.

It sounds like you have ignition issues. Check for voltage drop. Make sure you're getting 12+ to the poss side of the coil (Run a wire direct if you have to. By pass the ign switch.

If all that is working right, you should be able to just tap the gas and even a 352 will jump all over itself gettin' out of the way.
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  #12  
Old 06-08-2008, 12:45 AM
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Default Edelbrock 1406 Question

Hi John,

Thanks for the help. Nope, it does not look like the problem is the carb. I am being told that they dont think it is a problem with the timing chain. It might be a problem with the dist. shaft being off a tooth. I dont know if the previous owner might have pulled the dist and put it back in a tooth off. How does one tell if the rotor is on the #1 position at true TDC?

Thanks for letting me know that the vac port on yours is also on the Pass. side for ported vacuum. That is where I have mine at.

As for the vacuum advance cone, when you take off the vacuum tube to it and suck on it, that section inside the dist. moves. So, from what I have been told by ya'll here, by posts by Alexander, and by others, if you have movement of that mechanism when you suck on that tube, the vacuum advance is doing its job. It is a new vacuum advance module.

As I recall, when the mechanic was checking voltages, from the by-pass or ballast resistor (if I have that named right) mounted on the drivers side by the master cylinder, one lead gives us 9.3v. The other is 12.3 or 12.4v. When you take the measurement at the positive side of the coil, you get 9.3V. So I gather that one of those two leads, the one reading 9.3v, is hooked through the wiring harness to the + side of the coil. Or the 12V connection is, and for whatever reason, along the way, is losing about 3v.

The coil is a fairly new looking 12v (I think) ACCel coil. It is my understanding that reading of 9.3 at the + side of the coil is okay, that it is not to low. So I am confused if I should have something around 9v or 12v. I can tell them to find 12v from some other place than the ign switch and run that directly to the coil to see what happens.

Can anyone tell me about this exhaust gas control valve being inoperative or sticking. I just did a search on it and read the manual also. The book says it is at the outlet of the right exhaust manifold. Alexander said to rev the engine and watch the external counterweight on the exhaust gas control valve. It should move a quarter turn if it is not stuck. It seems to me that I have read in some past posts that this exhaust gas control valve on our Tbirds was one of those often occurring problems that can give us a lot of difficulties. If I remember, the posts said they were prone to sticking.

Thanks for all the advise. Anything anyone else can contribute would be greatly appreciated. This is getting to be a pretty bad pain in the butt for me. I like things working right, and this is sure preventing me from driving this car. In fact, just getting it in for service was a trip as it stalled on me 3-4 times before I got there. Every time I tried to give it the gas to get away from a stop light or sign, it either tried to quit or did, Luckily, I was able to get it started again and make it to the auto shop. I think the reason why it was not doing to badly before was because my mechanic had the idle set higher to prevent it from doing so. Now the idle is set to a more normal position, I gather, and I am experiencing this problem more.

Good Birding!
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Last edited by YellowRose : 06-08-2008 at 01:42 AM. Reason: Changes to the text
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  #13  
Old 06-08-2008, 01:59 AM
FeFranco FeFranco is offline
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You have me thoroughly confused, because you seem to be all over the place. First off, sorry for this info, but your mechanic doesn't sound like a mechanic. I hope he is offering cheap advise. John gave you some great advice----------MAKE SURE THE DISTRIBUTOR IS IN THE CORRECT POSITION. Until then, nobody can help you. You will need to find a mechanic that can check the distributors position. It would be easy for a mechanic to do, but hard for us to explain to you. I feel that this is an easy fix, so don't just give that car away yet!
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  #14  
Old 06-08-2008, 02:27 AM
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Default Edelbrock 1406 Question

Hi Franco!

If you think I have you are thoroughly confused, you should be in my shoes! lmbo.. I am getting suggestions as to what it could be from different sources. Yes, I think John did give me good advice, and you did also. Come Monday morning, that is what is going to happen next. I now have a mechanic who seems to know what he is doing, and he will do that next. In fact, he was about to do that on Friday, but we ran out of time. As little as I know, I also think this problem is related to the distributor, in one way or the other.
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  #15  
Old 06-08-2008, 03:31 AM
FeFranco FeFranco is offline
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It might even be a hairline crack in your distributor cap, but you have to check for proper position of that distributor. GOOD LUCK!
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  #16  
Old 06-08-2008, 12:01 PM
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Default Edelbrock 1406 Question

Hi Franco,

The distributor cap and rotor are pretty new. A few days ago, I had them both off and inspected them thoroughly under a flashlight. I did not see anything in the way of cracks or any other problems. However, it would not be a bad idea to replace them again, just in case.

As for checking for proper positioning of the dist, that will get done Monday morning. I know that needs to be verified and if wrong, fixed. If it is positioned right, that will be another thing checked and out of the way. Thanks for all the help, guys!
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  #17  
Old 06-08-2008, 01:10 PM
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I'm having the same exact problem, although my engine is stock. I have 50k on it, and it runs perfectly at idle, but it doesn't have any power. It will run and drive, but the distributor isn't advancing like it should, and the secondaries aren't opening on the cab.. so my best guess is an intake manifold leak. seeing as this sucker weighs like 85 lbs, I need 2 people to remove it. If you resolve your problem, let me know.. I'm dyin here too!

Percy.
60 t-bird, satin black.
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  #18  
Old 06-08-2008, 01:22 PM
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If you have the factory service manual, go to page1-21 in the 352 eng section. Look at illust # A107 3A (Fig 4) at the bottom of the page.
It shows the placemet of the weight on the outside.

If you don't have a svc manual, look at the valve. the weight should be pointing almost straight down into that indent in the frame (an afterthought??). That is if the valve is in the OPEN posn. Mine is stuck open.

Hope that helps.
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  #19  
Old 06-08-2008, 01:39 PM
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Sorry about being unclear here, I was reffering to the EFE (flapper) valve in the pass side exh/manif.




Quote:
Originally Posted by byersmtrco View Post
If you have the factory service manual, go to page1-21 in the 352 eng section. Look at illust # A107 3A (Fig 4) at the bottom of the page.
It shows the placemet of the weight on the outside.

If you don't have a svc manual, look at the valve. the weight should be pointing almost straight down into that indent in the frame (an afterthought??). That is if the valve is in the OPEN posn. Mine is stuck open.

Hope that helps.
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2008, 01:45 PM
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byersmtrco byersmtrco is offline
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Cool

On the dist cap deal. Get a Motorcraft cap. The #1 tower is marked.
Look at the dist cap retainer in back(facing the rr of the car)
The #1 wire is the 1st one clockwise from that retainer clip. (The dist rotates counter clock-wise)
Turn the eng over manually (1 1/8? socket on the frt of the crank)
Get it deadnuts on # 1 on the compression stroke. Then just make sure the rotor is pointing (exactly) @ the #1 wire posn.
I'd bet real money you're off a tooth.
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