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  #11  
Old 03-17-2008, 03:57 PM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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I did my entire brake system on the 60. The parts were all ordered from T-Bird Headquarters and fit perfectly.

I found that the old rear rubber hose going over the rear axle was completely clogged. The car had been only stopping on the front shoes. I would highly advise you to change the front and back if you are going to change lines and hoses.
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  #12  
Old 03-17-2008, 05:46 PM
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Meridious.I replaced all my brakes lines with parts from NAPA.They ordered the rubber ones,they where correct parts.Then I just used I think 1/8 hydraulic lines.I bought a hand held tube bender and then remove my old lines and bent the new ones to fit.Worked great for a whole lot less money.
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  #13  
Old 03-17-2008, 05:47 PM
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I did the same thing with my gas line.
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  #14  
Old 03-17-2008, 07:54 PM
Meridious Meridious is offline
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OK, I am still missing something.

I removed the inner 5/8-head bolts of the lower A-frame yesterday with ease, as indicated. As instructed, I've tried to push/tap out what 'looks' like the huge bolts, which the 5/8-head bolt screwed into from the inside.

I used a 5lb short sledge hammer and a then later 8 1/2lb sledge hammer (on a solid iron rod that fits very nicely against what has to be tapped out). After an hour and almost knocking the vehicle off the jackstands, (and my arm unable to take anymore, which will be sore for days to come)I ingeniously wedged a short, stumpy 1-ton little hydraulic jack inside the A-frame, and jacked to the point where I seriously believe I was about to bend the frame of the front-end.I had to stop because I was about to bend the other side of the A-frame where I had wedged the base of the jack.

Nothing.

Not a budge.


And despite all my efforts to protect the threads, I've ruined them on the one I am working on...so if I ever get it out, I will have to have it drilled and re-threaded.

Something has to be wrong.

There has to be a step I am not seeing.

This is just crazy.

Last edited by Meridious : 03-17-2008 at 07:57 PM.
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  #15  
Old 03-17-2008, 08:55 PM
tbirds8 tbirds8 is offline
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I'm going to be going in this direction in a week or two and it dosen't sound good. Are you on the upper or lower? My upper lost a bolt and the A frame moved foward. I'll see what your'e talking about hopefully.
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  #16  
Old 03-17-2008, 09:02 PM
Meridious Meridious is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbirds8 View Post
I'm going to be going in this direction in a week or two and it dosen't sound good. Are you on the upper or lower? My upper lost a bolt and the A frame moved foward. I'll see what your'e talking about hopefully.
Lower.

I just made my final attempt short of someone telling me I have missed a step.

I took my acetylene torch and heated the shaft (the one that is supposed to "tap" out) until it was solid red under my goggles, let it cool back to normal for about 5 seconds, used the rod and sledge and again, nothing.

When I was a welder and fitter, that would make anything loose enough to move.

Either this thing is screwed in somewhere, has a key, or it has welded itself to my frame.

I have no idea what to do now.
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  #17  
Old 03-17-2008, 09:12 PM
tbirds8 tbirds8 is offline
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Walk away from that! I havn't got to it yet but I THINK to much heat no good. Somebody here Has to have done this???????????????????
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  #18  
Old 03-17-2008, 09:18 PM
Meridious Meridious is offline
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Looks like I am going to have to cut the shafts off.

Does anyone have an idea where I could find these lower arm "Shafts" for sale?

Its going to be horrible cutting them out with the rubber flanges still intact, but I have to prepare for the sad fact that these shafts that are supposed to just tap out have welded themselves in place.

I can understand that on the front-frame-side where there is some rust and its dry, but the cross-member side has an inch of grease/oil/sludge on it and the 'shaft' can't have rust-welded itself.

If anyone knows a place that might carry these parts or remanufacture them, please let me know. I will need new ones when I am done.

I can't stop the project here. I have no choice at all except to remove these one way or another.
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  #19  
Old 03-18-2008, 12:23 AM
Meridious Meridious is offline
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I've Emailed the Bird's Nest, the Tbird Ranch, Pat Wilson's, and about 5 other used-parts dealers I found on Hemmings.

Hopefully one of them will be able to supply these.

What I will need are 4 of these:

(part 3048 in this image)




Lesson learned...some parts seize beyond removal.

bleh
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  #20  
Old 03-18-2008, 12:31 AM
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dgs dgs is offline
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Sorry I'm late to the party. Mine pushed out with the taps of a standard framing hammer. Almost could spin them with my fingers. The benefits of a California car, I guess. I was shocked how easy most of mine came apart. I'm used to Ohio cars where everything is rusted together after 4-5 years in the winter salt. Sorry I can't give you better news. Are both arms that way?

Cutting them out might not be the best idea either. I'm not an expert in this stuff, but you'll still need a nice round slip fit hole to put the new ones into. Maybe try some penetrating oil, a bunch of tapping, more penetrating oil, more tapping, etc. It may take some time, but that might get you there.

I ran into a similar predicament with the ball stud on the PS control valve. Alexander told me oil and tapping, oil and tapping. I got impatient and started banging and using a pickle fork. That only buggered things up. I went back to oil and tapping and eventually it popped loose.

On the brakes, I bought the Kanter brake kit with 4 wheel cylinder rebuild kits, 3 rubber lines and a MC rebuild kit. Was about $130, I think. Worked great, but I found one wheel cylinder was scored and leaked even with new seals. Discovered that Autozone had one on the shelf for $13!

I'm telling you, get a couple of HS linebackers to sit in the engine bay when it's time to reassemble. No compressor needed then!
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