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  #1  
Old 11-16-2004, 04:04 PM
tarps3 tarps3 is offline
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Default ignition switch cylinder

before I replace the starter, I am going to replace the ignition cylinder. I ran a jumper bypassing the ignition switch and the starter seemed fine. So i am gonna leave it alone for now.

I unscrewed the bezel holding the ignition switch in and pushed it inward to clear it from the dash panel.
The thing went past the dash panel, but there is no way in Hades I can see or access the back of the switch - it's just too cramped. I even removed the fuel/temp gauge to get access but it only let me see the face of the ignition switch (cylinder).

My question is: how do you remove the cylinder from the switch? If I can just replace that, then I don't have to disassemble the entire dash to remove the stupid switch assembly.

There HAS to be a way to remove the cylinder only.
please help - I'm at the end of my rope with these supposedly "simple repairs". I've spent about 2 hours just to get to this point and I can't remove the ignition switch!

Casey
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  #2  
Old 11-16-2004, 04:39 PM
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Alexander Alexander is offline
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Default RE: ignition switch cylinder

You may not need to totally remove the ignition switch to change the lock cylinder. the procedue for removing it is here: http://www.falconparts.com/1960%2D19...ON+SWITCH.html . Falcon and T-Bird ignition switches are similar. You can remove the fuel/temp guage to get better access to the switch after pushing it in.

Why are you replacing the lock cylinder?

Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top
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  #3  
Old 11-16-2004, 06:44 PM
tarps3 tarps3 is offline
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Default RE: ignition switch cylinder

I want to relpace the lock cyinder because I think it is hanging up in the "start" position and therefore grinding my starter (pinion gear).
The cylinder itself is very loose and "mushy".

If I can get a new cylinder in there that's a little tighter, then when I release the key, it will spring back to the "on" position instead of staying in the "start" position.

Am I replacing the right part or should it be the entire switch?

As it is right now (yet another hour and a half screwing with this), I can't get the cylinder out anyway. I inserted a paperclip and pushed in the little button that is supposed to allow the cylinder to come out, but it won't budge. I've sprayed it with lubricant, cussed at it - you name it.

Any idea why the thing won't come out?

Casey
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Old 11-16-2004, 08:27 PM
49effie 49effie is offline
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Default RE: ignition switch cylinder

FWIW:

I replaced my cylinder recently. What happens is there is a flat spot on the end on the inside part of the cylinder at the 1/8 to the right position where the pin can be pushed back to allow the cylinder to come out of the ignition switch. These cylinders are made of pot metal and corrode easily. If you are setting the flat spot and can't budge the pin then you probably are corroded in as you suspect. I took my door locks off to replace them, only to find out that they are junk due to being corroded beyond any hope of freeing up.

I'm not sure your problem is only in the cylinder. It is only a security device that when the key is inserted lets you turn the switch by the key. No springs or other magic. The springs and return mechanisims are in the igintion switch itself.

I have a loose core that I can take some images of and post if you like.
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Old 11-16-2004, 09:50 PM
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Default RE: ignition switch cylinder

CAsey,

I agree with Kevin. If the key does not go back into position after starting, the problem is probably not the lock cylinder, but the ignition switch itself. The lock cylinder just functions to prevent theft. It does not have any return springs.

Alexander
1959 Hardtop
1960 Golde Top
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  #6  
Old 11-16-2004, 11:44 PM
tarps3 tarps3 is offline
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Default RE: ignition switch cylinder

My cylinder seems pretty loose and the key isn't very secure in it.
I think I'll just replace the whole thing - ignition switch plus cylinder.

I can't seem to get the switch in a position to remove the wires from the back though. Do I have to disassemble the whole dash to access it? I've pushed it back thru the dash, but the wires behind it keep me from pulling the switch downward so I can remove the wires from the posts - any suggestions? I feel like I'm missing some trick here - I can't imagine this should be this hard to do...

I don't want to just start tugging away - no telling what else I'll screw up!

Casey
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Old 11-17-2004, 01:15 PM
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Default RE: ignition switch cylinder

I have replaced the ignition switch by pulling it out to under the dash. It is not easy, but it can be done without excess force.

Alexander
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1960 Golde Top
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  #8  
Old 11-18-2004, 05:43 PM
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Default RE: ignition switch cylinder

okay - you guys will love this....
After fighting with the ignition switch for about 3 days and turning my knuckles and hands into hamburger meat, I was finally able to see and correct my problem!

There's a yellow wire that goes to the "battery terminal" on the back of the switch. This wire seemed very short and did not allow the switch to drop down under the dash so I could disconnect everything. It kept the switch hung up and jammed right behind the dash panel.

Turns out that the previous owner, while replacing the dash pad, somehow pinched all but about 1/2" of that yellow wire between the pad and the side of the dash. This prevented the switch from hanging down and created a nightmare for me. I could not, for the life of me, figure out why that ^%$* switch would not drop down for access to the wires. I only saw this when I put my ENTIRE eyeball completely into the hole where the temp/fuel gauge resides and pulled back on the little housing that holds the instrument lights behind the switches. Eyeball still sore!

After moving that switch around a few hundred times behind the dash, the wire finally broke at the spot it was pinched and the switch fell right on down. All I have to do now is pull the other end of the wire out from the pinched area and reconnect the 2 broken halves.

thus ends this chapter of the ignition switch saga!

thanks for everyone's advice and help - nobody told me that a wire must be hung up and pinched behind the pad - what's wrong with you guys?!?!
:P

Casey
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