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  #11  
Old 08-24-2007, 08:56 PM
bcomo bcomo is offline
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Is that screen at the back of the manifold a 352 item, or is that part of the road draft tube?

Do I need to do any maintenence like that on a 430. I don't see that listed in the shop manual.
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  #12  
Old 08-24-2007, 09:04 PM
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The screen is inside the manifold. It is access via the blowby pipe hole. The 430 most probably has this also.
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  #13  
Old 08-25-2007, 01:12 AM
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Check the int manif. Poss crack? Then check your valve guide seals. After that, I would suspect ring break in was not made.
Maybe they never seated.

I run a supliment. It's a GM product called engine oil supl. It's GM part # 1052367.The proof in the pudding was my 72 El Camino that went 243K on the orig eng. I ran that all along. They might be pulling it from the market (EPA reasons only, like top eng cleaner)
It's great for break in.
It may still be possible to get your rings to seat.

This was my break in procedure. Up to 50 miles, below 50 mph. No more than qtr throttle. Changed oil @ 500. 4 qts of 10/30 & one eng oil supl. Drove country roads mostly btwn 40 & 60 mph up to 300 miles. 3-5 hundred, varied speed, but kept it under 70. Got on it a little, say 1/2 throttle, but shut off at 70. Varying the speed helps accel then decel, never kept a steady speed. Figured ok for road trip @ 500 (freeway speed, but still varied (65-75-70-65) Kind of annoying but worked. I'm at aprox 2000 miles on the new motor. No oil consumption btwn oil changes and no blow by. I do have the 62 style PCV hooked up. Even the air filter element is clean where the hose from the oil cap dumps in.
She runs like a scalded cat too. The rear diff is 300's, not 310's (been that way for years(decades). So she's got some long ol' legs.
You better have something with big hairy ones to go by that Ford from 70-100 !!!

I know that's more than .02, But main point is Take it out and Run It !!!!!
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  #14  
Old 08-25-2007, 09:48 AM
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John, my break-in was almost identical to yours with the same kind of results. It works!!

When Pete said his compression came up to 180 when he squirted oil in the cylinders, that got my attention as indicating the rings have some kind of problem.

I rebuilt a 4 cylinder motor cycle engine a few years ago -all new parts. After 1000 miles the compression was still low and there was some oil consumption. I had been running it on 20W-50 (common for air cooled bikes). I ran it on 10W-30 for 500 miles and the rings finished breaking in. Compression went up and other problems went away. Lesson learned!

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  #15  
Old 08-25-2007, 04:50 PM
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So I'm driving my car daily now, and I have some more information and detail. First off, highway cruising really loads the engine up with blowby. If I have the a/c vents open, the blowby is visible as it enters the passenger compartment (clearly it isn't sealing properly in the engine compartment). After driving on the highway is when the blowby out the hood scoop is the worst (and it is indeed coming out of the oil filler). BUT. If, at idle at a stoplight, I put the car in park or neutral, the blowby stops coming out, which (I suppose) means the pcv valve is sucking it strongly from the other side at fast idle. I cleaned the intake manifold thoroughly when I had the engine apart. I don't remember any screens, but there was a flat metal panel stuck to the underside beneath the road draft tube hole.

I really don't know whether ring seating is the issue. It seems like if I put in the wrong rings, adding heavy weight oil would not have caused the jump to normal compression. I added a can of Engine Restore yesterday in the hopes that it would help the rings seal better and improve compression/reduce blowby.

I haven't retained my old rings, but I think I did check the clearance between the new rings and their channels in the pistons. I wouldn't have reused the pistons if I checked it and it was out of spec.
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  #16  
Old 08-26-2007, 05:45 PM
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Ok. A few questions;

Does it smoke on start up (out of the exhaust pipes)?
If so, does it do it hot or cold (or both)

If you nail it, does it lay down a smokescreen?
Does it smoke more under acceleration or decelleration?
Same Q with what comes out of your blowby tube.
Speaking of which, where does the hose from your oil cap attach? the outer air cleaner housing (outside of the filter?)


Let me know, but it sounds like you have even more serious issues than rings not seated. If you see smoke coming in the car . . . Don't drive it (much) until you get this resolved.
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  #17  
Old 08-26-2007, 09:58 PM
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* what do your plugs look like if you pull a couple?
* how much oil (i.e. a quart every XXX miles) are you using?
* have you checked that nothing is leaking onto an exhaust component ? (like the valve covers)

A leak down tester might provide some interesting information with not alot of work.
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  #18  
Old 08-27-2007, 10:01 AM
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Regarding smoke out the exhaust pipes: the only times I've seen smoke out the pipes have been when 1. the engine has been tuned rich and 2. I'm starting the car for the first time in several weeks (and even then, it hasn't always smoked). Over the last several days, when I've been driving it all the time, I have not seen any evidence of exhaust smoke at all, even when accelerating relatively briskly. And I have been checking for it fairly often.

The smoke out the filler tube happens most liberally when the engine is maintained at moderate or high RPMS. The faster it spins, and the longer, the more gas it makes. I can only see it out the hood when I'm stopped, but as I said, if I leave the a/c vents open, cruising at 60 mph I can see the same gases blowing into the passenger compartment through the vents. I take this to mean that there's enough gas building up under the hood that it can find its way through the a/c ducts, which are obviously not sealing very well. Avoiding the highway helps. I suppose the pcv is able to do a better job keeping up with the blowby at lower speeds so I don't see much of it coming into the car. I've been riding always with the windows open so I don't have to breath that stuff.

I don't have a hose coming from the oil cap. I'm using the stock, original oil cap.

I pulled all my plugs and checked each one just a few days ago. Most of them were very clean, healthy looking normal plugs with a light dusting of tannish color, and a couple of them were immaculate, looking almost like they were new out of the box.

I don't know that I'm using any oil. I used to leak some out of my pcv setup because it wasn't sealed properly; it dripped down onto the bellhousing. If it is using oil, it's doing so at maybe 1 quart every 1000 miles. that's a really rough estimate and it's almost worthless; I'll try to monitor it from here out.

There may be some leakage of trans fluid on the exhaust pipes below the pass. compartment. If this is happening in any significant amount (which I doubt) it would blow back underneath the car, not out the front.

Thanks so much for all of you guys' input so far! This is really puzzling me and I want to get to the bottom of it.
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  #19  
Old 08-28-2007, 12:06 AM
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Do you suppose I could be using the wrong pcv valve? The one I'm using looks just like the one pictured at the bottom of the Squarebirds Technical article page. Maybe its spring is too weak or too strong?

Just seems strange that the blow by gets sucked in at idle in park/neutral but not in other situations.
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  #20  
Old 08-28-2007, 03:26 AM
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The PCV valve is most restrictive, though not totally closed, when the engine is at idle (the engine develops the most vacuum at idle). At wide open throttle, there is little engine vacuum, so the blow by gases would not flow through it, but would go mostly through the oil cap as you describe.

There are countless PCV valves. They all work in a similar fashion. There is a spring towards the carburetor that rests against a tapered insert. It is impossible for the PCV valve to completely close completely in the direction of the spring. The other side of the insert is flat, so that if there is backfire it can close.

To what vacuum source did you hook up the PCV valve?
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