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  #1  
Old 10-27-2017, 06:34 PM
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Default Starter motor

So I removed my starter motor to replace it. Came out really easy. I have true dual exhaust so I lowered the passenger side and unbolted the one side of the steering ram and it came out just like that. Kind of a zig zag and it came out so early Iím afraid it will pay me back when I put it back in. My biggest issue now is what is this on my shaft and how to I take it off to put it on my new starter screw driver to release it didnít work.
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Old 10-27-2017, 08:19 PM
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You have to press on the large end washer (I use a bench vise) so the hole with the pin is fully exposed. Then knock out the pin and the Bendix drive will come off. Reverse the procedure to install it on the new starter.

John
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Old 10-27-2017, 08:46 PM
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I would check that replacement starter for fit before changing the drive. The stud appears to be in position to hit the exhaust manifold. If it does, you can probably return it. If you can't return it, you might try cutting some of the stud off to clear the manifold. Just sayin
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Old 10-28-2017, 03:37 PM
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CLICK HERE for my starter motor site. Scroll to picture #42 to see how the Bendix Gear comes off.

Carl Heller is right, your 430 starter motor has the terminal post moved over to clear your exhaust manifolds. You have a few options...

If they actually have a 430 starter, by all means, return the one you received. If they don't have one (or if they don't know what the heck you're talking about), I would use my old starter case and simply transfer all the insides of the new one to the old case. It really isn't very difficult because the Bendix Gear is already removed.

The hardest part is, removing the field winding shoes by loosening the square flat-head screws from the outside. Sometimes they rust but they will come out. Everything bolts together and no soldering is necessary. - Dave
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Old 10-28-2017, 04:31 PM
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People in the trade ID starters by their 'Lester' number. The Lester number for the 352 starter is 3115, while the Lester number for the 430 is 3117. Since these starters have no identity when they are rebuilt or sold, everyone (except me) assumes they are the popular 352 starter which goes back to 1956 when the voltage changed on Ford cars from 6V to 12V. It fits the Y-block motors and possibly some 6 cyl.
The significant difference in the two starters is the orientation of the mounting holes on the drive end. By switching only the drive end you should be able to convert your 3115 to a 3117. Try this first before dismantling things as I'm not positive if the two thru bolts will clear the fields. Good luck!
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Old 10-30-2017, 06:57 PM
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Carl and Dave sorry I havenít been back in sooner I wasnít able to work on it over the weekend. I was looking at the wrong thing when you posted that. And I am hitting the exhaust exactly what you said might happen

I left a message with Cody at the Birds Nest about it.

Converting it are you talking about it removing the housing where the battery bolt is at and swapping bodies out? Went back in smoothly. Had it all tightened down and was putting the exhaust pipe up and I couldnít bolt it up. So I had to take the bolts out of he starter after just loosening them up wouldnít work.
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Old 10-30-2017, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djweaz View Post
Converting it are you talking about it removing the housing where the battery bolt is at and swapping bodies out?
I think he's talking about the mounting flange that bolts to the bell housing. If you unscrew the two through bolts and pull off the mounting flange from the new one and replace it with the one from your old starter it will turn it enough where the stud doesn't hit the exhaust. I've never tried it but in theory it might work.

John
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Old 10-30-2017, 08:54 PM
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Thanks John I will try that tomorrow.
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Old 10-30-2017, 10:32 PM
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Rob, all the internals are identical. The only change is, where the terminal stud comes out. This is a problem only for Bulldozer engines because (as you found out) it hits the exhaust manifold.

So, if you notice by looking at the pictures I provided, there are 'pins' and 'divots' that align the end caps to the center section (I'll call that the body). The through bolts go between field windings so that space is dedicated.

The change isn't drastic but enough to be a pain.
Consider the positons of the terminal studs in your picture:


Pay particular attention to the faint tapped holes in the front end cap, where the mounting bolts screw in with relation to the terminal stud.

I would mark positions of the fields and the case, take the internals out of both, then clean up and use the old body with the best parts. It looks harder than it really is.

The soldered brush connection comes out with the field coils, so everything bolts together. Take pictures and use mine along the way. This job shouldn't take more than 1/2-hour.

Do not paint until the starter is together. - Dave
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Old 11-02-2017, 06:04 AM
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I went out yesterday and was going to rebuild my starter I looked at your starter page, very in-depth. I was going to do it but I decided I would have the 3117 sent to me as the old starter was probably the original starter. I thought to myself what was a couple of days? I didnít have anything to lose so it is going back to the birds nest. I have a shipping tag coming with the other one so when it gets hereI just have to put the 3115 in the box and put the shipping tag and put it in the mail. Just seems like the new starter will look much better than a rebuilt starter
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