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  #21  
Old 10-25-2017, 08:16 PM
Larry Tappen Larry Tappen is offline
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to all the helpers out there: I found the electrical plug by fuse panel that goes through the fire wall partly melted and after taking plug apart found the black with {green stripe} badly coroded and broken. this I think is part of my problem. also found the starter solenoid seems to be shorted, I have 12 volts going across the plus cable side and the neg. side with out key on. don't think that is right without key being on to supply voltage. in am i'm going to remove rubber wire plug and splice and solder the wires and go from there. wish me luck, thanks, larry.
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  #22  
Old 10-25-2017, 09:49 PM
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jopizz jopizz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Tappen View Post
also found the starter solenoid seems to be shorted, I have 12 volts going across the plus cable side and the neg. side with out key on. don't think that is right without key being on to supply voltage.
You should always have 12V on the battery side of the solenoid. It connects directly to the battery +. There is no negative terminal. The solenoid grounds to the firewall. If you had a short in the solenoid the starter would turn over with the key off.

John
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  #23  
Old 10-26-2017, 01:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Tappen View Post
...i'm going to remove rubber wire plug and splice and solder the wires and go from there...
The only reason Ford used plugs and receptacles is to make installing the wire harnesses fast and to make sure none of the wires are crossed. In short, 'you can't get it wrong'.

I suggest you use crimp connectors instead of solder. Many times, I will take a #10 (yellow) ring terminal and cut the ring off. Then, stick both wires to be spliced into the terminal sleeve and crimp it. This is the best connection possible because it offers the least resistance.

Glad you found the melted plug. Oh and... Use a continuity tester across your starter solenoid with the wires removed. - Dave
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