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  #11  
Old 10-21-2017, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Tappen View Post
stubbie, when I was looking at your picture I seen what looks like a metal strap going from one breaker to another is that correct?
Without that strap the bottom breaker has no power. You need that strap for it to work.

John
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  #12  
Old 10-22-2017, 09:25 PM
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Larry I will see if i can get you a better photo later when I get back from work.
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  #13  
Old 10-24-2017, 03:29 PM
Larry Tappen Larry Tappen is offline
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john, if the strap gives power to the bottom breaker, then the green short wire also gives power to the bottom breaker on the left. I guess I've got the wires correct, but still having problem with turn signals and heater fan operating with the key off. I did a conuity test on the ignition switch with the key off and wires disconnected from switch, it test ok, the light switch is new so I think this should be ok also. don't know where to check now thanks larry, I hope people aren't thinking i'm totally dumb, but this has me stumped, thanks again.
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  #14  
Old 10-24-2017, 03:55 PM
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The Black/Green wire on the bottom left breaker is hot with the key on so I'm not sure why the green jumper wire is there. That is giving it power all the time. If you have that green jumper wire remove it and see if your blower still works with the key off.

John
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  #15  
Old 10-24-2017, 07:45 PM
Larry Tappen Larry Tappen is offline
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john, per your suggestion of removing green jumper, I still have power to fan motor with key off, plus I found I have power with test light from neg batt cable to ground with cable removed from batt. i'm thinking dead short somewhere. using volt meter in place of test light I get 12.7 volts being drawn will check further tomarow thanks, larry.
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  #16  
Old 10-24-2017, 08:35 PM
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Make sure your doors are closed or you will have a dead short. Start by removing one fuse at a time and removing power from each breaker one at a time. If you still have a short I would check where the connectors plug in at the firewall.

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  #17  
Old 10-25-2017, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Tappen View Post
hey guys, need some advise on wiring at fuse box on my 64 bird. according to the wiring diagram in the elec. book page#24 4135-2 the picture shows the fuse box with a jumper wire on the circuit breakers, but in the shop manual on page #15-10 fig. 2 shows the jumper in a different spot, so my question is which is correct. and also about wiring, the radio, mine is an am with fader (I think). i'm thinking if it has fader control thus volume control between front and rear speakers which are installed. now where dose the real speaker plug in at radio, or is it part of the large plug when they are together. i'm looking at page #e4-4648-1. thanks for the help, larry
Just reading these posts again . Larry, you mention a ' fader knob ' next to your steering column . Far as I know, the radios never had a separate fader knob . Is it possible that your car had a " reverberator installed at one time ,or still there . That would require a rear speaker with an a/m radio . the reverberator would be mounted in the trunk in the shape of a metal box with a flat multi- wire coming from it . Some had just the knob on the dash ( rotating as well as pull out/in for on and off. The one I had in my '65 ( once owned ) also had a dimmer switch for on / off control as will as the fader knob or front to rear balance .
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  #18  
Old 10-25-2017, 03:44 PM
Larry Tappen Larry Tappen is offline
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Default wiring

our5t8bird, the fader control I was referring to is the knob behind the tuning knob on the right side of radio as looking at it. i'm not sure if that knob is called a fader or balance control between the front speaker and rear speaker. when I bought this bird it did not have any speakers so bought two new ones and installed them but radio only gives out some static when turning vol. control up or down. I did a bench test on this radio with 12 volt supply, speaker, and made up antenna. still only static so I decided to install said radio anyway. maybe i'll install fm radio later into the glove box. was hoping this radio would work even if only a few stations then connect a fm converter to it, but now I've got a bigger problem, a big power drain in the wiring that i'm trying to figure out, not having to much luck thanks to all for letting me ramble, larry.
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  #19  
Old 10-25-2017, 04:01 PM
Larry Tappen Larry Tappen is offline
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Default wiring

john, thanks for the reply. I did the batt test when the doors were open, didn't know that would make a short. the batt test was with neg. cable off batt. test light and volt meter connected to neg. cable and ground on engine, had 12.7 voltage draw. to me i'm thinking short some where. I'll check as you said pulling one fuse at a time. thanks again, larry.
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  #20  
Old 10-25-2017, 07:19 PM
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Larry, take some pictures. You may send them to me (simplyconnected@aol.com) and I will post them for you.

In addition, after you take pictures I can see, get in front of your car with the wiring diagram and your phone. I will go through the tests with you. We can get this straightened out.

Send the pictures to me then call (248) 544-8834 - Dave
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