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  #11  
Old 09-02-2017, 02:39 PM
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To remove the valve body remove the four hoses, take off the cap at the end of the valve and remove the lock nut. Remove the spacer, spring and adapter. Remove the two bolts that hold the valve body to the rest of the control valve. Carefully remove the valve body from the shaft. Follow the shop manual when you install the new seals and insert the spool. It needs to be done correctly to avoid damage to the seals or spool. Then reverse the procedure to reinstall it. Tighten the lock nut until it stops and then back it off 1/4 turn. Reinstall the hoses, refill, start the car and keep your fingers crossed.

John
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  #12  
Old 09-02-2017, 05:32 PM
Infinite Monkeys Infinite Monkeys is offline
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I'll wait for the complete disassembly till I get the gasket kit in hand, this way stuff will be fresh in my head as I reassemble.
Hoses and the ram is off already.

Thanks again for the help.
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  #13  
Old 09-02-2017, 07:14 PM
Infinite Monkeys Infinite Monkeys is offline
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I got a couple more questions about this procedure.

One is, will I be able to replace all the seals without taking the ball stud off the pitman arm? Seems the cover under the metal sleeve cannot be replaced without taking the stud off? Is this cover an oil seal, or a just a dust boot?

Second, Rockauto has a rebuild service for $160.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...rol+valve,7280

Should I just go ahead and do this, or do it myself. If I do send it in then how do I get the pitman arm off? I think if I can get the arm off then I'll feel better about doing it myself anyway.

I found a rebuild kit for $50 which includes the ball stud.

Thanks.
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  #14  
Old 09-02-2017, 07:44 PM
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You said earlier that the valve looked new. If so then you should not have to replace the ball stud. It should have already been done. The instructions I gave you earlier are to just replace the two spool seals without removing the ball stud from the pitman arm. The ball stud needs to be greased so the boot is a dust cover. If you want to remove the entire unit and have it rebuilt you need to use a puller to separate it. I use a tie rod end puller like this. It's not perfect but with a little finessing it works fine.

John
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  #15  
Old 09-02-2017, 08:04 PM
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I'm not sure where the leak is in the valve so I want to replace all the seals. Seems the best way to do this is on a work bench and not laying under the car and having to work with just inches of space.

I do not have that puller, good reason to buy one.

The valve appears to be new, but I was thinking that if I have to start beating the heck out of it to remove it from the pitman arm than I will still have a new ball stud to put in. Looks like I may not need to resort to the BFH.

Thanks John.
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  #16  
Old 09-02-2017, 08:07 PM
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It can only leak because the spool seals or the spool seal bushings are worn. That's the only part of the control valve that has fluid in it. The rest of the valve is dry except for grease around the ball stud. There's no reason to use a hammer. Use a puller instead. All you are going to do is dent the body and then it's useless.

John
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  #17  
Old 09-03-2017, 11:57 AM
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[QUOTE=Infinite Monkeys;"I'm not sure where the leak is in the valve so I want to replace all the seals. Seems the best way to do this is on a work bench and not laying under the car and having to work with just inches of space."

The beauty of this is that the PS control valve can be serviced easily on the car. Turn your wheels to the right and the control valve comes right toward you at the left tire. 2 screws hold the end cap exposing the adjusting nut. Remove the adjusting nut and the washers, spring, valve spool, and more washers come out in order.

This isn't difficult at all, but I can tell you I made it more difficult like you imagine it to be. You'll kick yourself in the can if you take it off the car to replace the washers.

Dean
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  #18  
Old 09-03-2017, 12:44 PM
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I've had a suspicion that I'm over-thinking this. Although it would be nice to have the new tool, it is about $40. I'll give it a try without removing the valve.

Thanks.
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  #19  
Old 09-03-2017, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infinite Monkeys View Post
I've had a suspicion that I'm over-thinking this. Although it would be nice to have the new tool, it is about $40. I'll give it a try without removing the valve.

Thanks.
Both Autozone and Advance Auto have a loan a tool program. The tool itself is $14.99 at Advance Auto.

John
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  #20  
Old 09-04-2017, 01:02 AM
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Since I'm going to replace the seals with the valve on the car and will not be replacing the ball stud, what kit do I need. Here are two I'm looking at, which is the one I need to stop the leak?
One obviously has a lot more parts, but is it what I need? Or will the cheaper option do?

Thanks again.

https://www.wilsontbird.com/parts/19...ve-rebuild-kit

And:

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_th...s-1958-60.html
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