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  #41  
Old 07-07-2017, 09:52 PM
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According to the Ford Parts Book all Squarebirds used LM603011 3 1/16" large bearing cup.

John
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  #42  
Old 07-07-2017, 11:00 PM
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Thanks John.
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  #43  
Old 07-08-2017, 10:20 AM
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So i replaced the upper suspension arm aft bushings on both sides (both where worn out), and now, when connecting the upper arm to the axle, the axle is swivelled a bit to the front, making the drive shaft yoke not completely in line with the drive shaft. Also both "clappers" are far more open then i saw on pictures from others. Both the lower and upper arms seem to be original and the axle as well. Nothing is bend or strange in any way. What can be wrong here? It almost seems that the upper arms are too short, or the lower arms too long
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  #44  
Old 07-08-2017, 11:18 AM
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Do you have the rear of the car up in the air or on the ground. If it's up in the air try putting it on the ground and see if it straightens out.

John
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  #45  
Old 07-08-2017, 11:33 AM
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Concerning bearings for your differential: before I incurred the cost to freight (& the V.A.T.), the hopefully correct units to......where? I would advise disassembling the differential and acquire the numbers from the bearings (usually present on the bearings & races).

These vehicles are not new, and in the past rather than repair a differential, a replacement often was transplanted (easier!), particularly in the case of the Ford 9 inch. You already indicated your belief that the unit has apparently been address previously, so what was done?

Most all of the components from one 9 inch can be assembled into any other unit (generally with only concerns for appropriate bearings to accomplish such), therefore sometimes one may encounter a "Frankenstein", with parts from several different models and/or years accumulated.

Do you happen to recall the casting identification on the case when you had the unit removed? I believe during this period (of the "Squarebird") the two units were the "WAR" and the "WAB" cases; the later being appropriate for the birds I believe; and if so, perhaps your chances are better?

Just-a-thought.

Scott.
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  #46  
Old 07-08-2017, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
Do you have the rear of the car up in the air or on the ground. If it's up in the air try putting it on the ground and see if it straightens out.

John
The car is on the ground now and still having the drive yoke center line horizontal, while it should point upwards a little bit, to be in line with the drive shaft. Before I changed the springs, it was pointing up a bit, but that was because the upper arm rear bushings where completely worn. Now with the new bushings, the axle is forced/tilted more forward, causing the "clapper" to be more open then it was before. I will see if I can get any P/N or identification from the diff housing. The only strange thing I see is that the differential is welded to the axle. Even though it seems to be welded well, it doesn´t look to be from the factory like this. As if they had welded a new/used differential to the existing axles.
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  #47  
Old 07-10-2017, 12:35 PM
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[quote]The car is on the ground now and still having the drive yoke center line horizontal, while it should point upwards a little bit, to be in line with the drive shaft.

Note that the proper pinion angle (differential) is referenced to the transmission output shaft angle, not the driveshaft. And to carry this discussion further, ideally the u-joint manufacturer's prefer at least 3° of angle deviation (@ u-joints) for best service life.

[quote]The only strange thing I see is that the differential is welded to the axle. Even though it seems to be welded well, it doesn´t look to be from the factory like this. As if they had welded a new/used differential to the existing axles.

Please expound further on this welding work? Perhaps, if we agree on certain terminology, a better understanding maybe had (sorry, I need things spelled out to me ): the Ford 9 inch unit has a cast iron differential case (containing the differential unit, ring & pinion set w/ bearings, flange, etc.), retained by ten studs & nuts w/ sealing washers into the stamped sheet metal axle housing, which accepts the axle shaft assemblies (splined & flanged axle forgings w/ studs, bearings & retainer plates) within the axle tubes of the housing, retained by fasteners.

Where is this welding work?

Scott.
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  #48  
Old 07-10-2017, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frango100 View Post
The car is on the ground now and still having the drive yoke center line horizontal, while it should point upwards a little bit, to be in line with the drive shaft. Before I changed the springs, it was pointing up a bit, but that was because the upper arm rear bushings where completely worn. Now with the new bushings, the axle is forced/tilted more forward, causing the "clapper" to be more open then it was before. I will see if I can get any P/N or identification from the diff housing. The only strange thing I see is that the differential is welded to the axle. Even though it seems to be welded well, it doesn´t look to be from the factory like this. As if they had welded a new/used differential to the existing axles.
I suspect what you are seeing is the centre 'bowl' of the axle housing which has the axle 'tubes' welded onto each side of it. The welded areas are just to each side of the 'bowl'
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  #49  
Old 07-11-2017, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scumdog View Post
I suspect what you are seeing is the centre 'bowl' of the axle housing which has the axle 'tubes' welded onto each side of it. The welded areas are just to each side of the 'bowl'
Yes, the weld is in between the differential housing and the axle tubes. Only on the left hand side a piece of steel is welded together on the top part, looks like a repair area.
But I will have to look at the transmission output shaft and the differential yoke angles. I only remember that the yoke was pointing up a bit before and now its completely horizontal. Also the so called " clappers" are further open then they where before, showing that the differential is tilted a bit more forward than it was used to be. I don´t remember to have seen a torque value for the vertical bolts of the "clappers". When you put torque on those bolts, you will tilt the differential a bit, but put strain on the upper and lower control arm bushings and bolts. That doesn´t seem to be ok
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  #50  
Old 08-02-2017, 02:00 PM
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I didn´t take the differential apart yet, but i was looking at the external markings. The pinion support shows WAT B2, which is a standard support used on a WAR case. Is there any coding on the outside of the case to show that it is a WAR case?
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