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  #11  
Old 05-08-2017, 11:16 PM
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[IMG]20160422_113251 by Randy harsha, on Flickr[/IMG].................................................. .
Del swell posts of yours, someday I'll test this one, soon just brake lines and right side disk.
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  #12  
Old 05-08-2017, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKheld View Post
Oh boy - another disc conversion !!!!!

(not trying to be sarcastic although it kinda sounds that way - going to be interesting I'm sure)

Always fun to see what parts are used and the progress - thanks for the pics Del...
Eric, you were one of the very first that I know, who did a front power disk brake conversion to a Squarebird.

The things we learned from you and your work were priceless. You also chopped our learning curve way down because (if you notice) every disk brake conversion shows slight improvement over the last. That's how it should be and we can't thank you enough for pioneering this huge decision. After all, the parts are not cheap, the work is 'custom fabrication' and we are changing brake lines around as new components are added.

The payoff is beyond, 'great.' I've never heard anyone say they will revert back to drums after installing this retrofit. I kind of keep track of the questions everyone has while doing this work. Oddly, I don't get the same questions.

Randy, I was on the phone with Del and we were talking about how hard it is to separate the upper ball joint. I told him to loosen the nut two turns, back up the spindle with a big hammer and give the other side a big 'smack' with another big hammer and the ball joint stud will fly out without using a separator or a pickle fork. How many whacks did it take you?

Del needs to change his bushings and that's why he's taking the upper ball joint loose.

Del, make sure you have a scissors jack under the lower ball joint when you do this job. Check your upper and lower bumpers too. - Dave
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  #13  
Old 05-08-2017, 11:57 PM
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Big wacks don't play with little ping ping go right for Big WACKS. Mr. #10
...................[IMG]20160316_185159 by Randy harsha, on Flickr[/IMG]
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  #14  
Old 05-09-2017, 08:08 AM
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Default Day 2 continued

Day 2 continued...
Got slowed down trying to adjust the jamb nut for proper MC fit. Removed the booster and ran around to several auto parts stores looking for specialty 8mm and 7mm wrenches with a sharp bend like old school bleeder wrench. Ended up with a crappy set of offset wrenches from Harbor Freight. They weren't going to work either... nuts just too thin. GRind down the 8mm still no dice. This can't be right - what am I missing?? SOS call to Dave D. "Have a helper step on the pedal and you'll have access to the jamb nut!" says Dave. Me - - forehead slap - - DOH!

Anyway having the booster on the bench provided the needed access to get the spring washers back where they belong surrounding the hockey stick. Thanks Eric. After dropping either washers or pin at least 1/2 dozen times finally got everything back in place. It was going to be Mission Impossible with the booster in place.

After reading and watching the vids again decided not to bench bleed the MC until I'm ready to install it for good.
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  #15  
Old 05-09-2017, 11:51 AM
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None of this is heavy work but it does require an 'order of assembly'. If you ever worked on a motorcycle, it's kind of the same. For adjustment trials, you will assemble things a few times.

By all means, mount the firewall bracket, booster, and all the pedal hardware, first. Then I would mount the combination valve because there is still access below the booster. Use this space to run your brake lines to all the wheels.

Now, it's time to adjust the M/C and booster. The booster should be operational from your pedal. If you step on the pedal, your adjustment jack screw and jam nut will stick out of the booster for easy access with common tools.

We have tried several compounds between the booster and master, for the correct jack screw setting. We used putty, PlayDoh, clay, etc. The best one so far is a slice of American cheese (still in the plastic wrapper). A small piece neatly fits, the cheese doesn't get all over, and the result shows nicely through the plastic. Oh, and it removes easily.

You want the output jack screw to just barely move the master cylinder piston. If you go too far, the brakes will never 'reset', allowing fluid to return to the reservoirs because when the pistons are 'at rest' **"the ports should be open to the combination valve." This is a 'trial and error' fitting that normally takes at least a few tries.

When a M/C is 'wet', the piston requires more pedal pressure to move. This becomes evident when you bench bleed. Use this resistance to your advantage while adjusting the booster. You can keep the setup hoses intact or plug the ports during booster setup.

The very last part of 'plumbing' is to connect the M/C lines. Then, the system needs to be bled in the conventional manner.
**"the ports should be open to the combination valve." Use this to your advantage. Since the front valve lines are open to the front calipers, open one or both front caliper bleed screws and wait for gravity to work. The lines will fill, the caliper will fill and eventually brake fluid will come out after air is purged. If you don't want to wait, bleed in the conventional way.

Again, plain tap water will rinse DOT-3 away. If you rinse immediately, no harm will come to paint, animals or plants.

If I didn't mention before, paint your castings before rust can start. I use BBQ (high-temp) paint by Rustoleum, found everywhere at reasonable prices. - Dave
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  #16  
Old 05-09-2017, 06:31 PM
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Default Day 3

Day 3 good progress today... and zero trips to Home Depot, Auto Zone or Harbor Freight!
Adjusted the jamb nut, mounted the PV and had my first flaring and bending experiences. Took a few tries...note the example on the right...nearly perfect! Ooops where's that other fitting??
All jacked up and ready to start the wheel work tomorrow!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg errors 1.JPG (91.1 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg Prop Valve 1.JPG (107.1 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg Jacked up.JPG (90.7 KB, 84 views)
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  #17  
Old 05-09-2017, 07:28 PM
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Good job! I see no kinks and everything fits.
Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
...I like doing brake work because nothing is heavy and the learning curve is very short. By the time you flare your second or third end, 'learning' is in the past...

If you want to practice bending, use the old line since it will be discarded...
Quote:
Originally Posted by del View Post
...Took a few tries...note the example on the right...nearly perfect! ...
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  #18  
Old 05-10-2017, 09:20 PM
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Default Day 4

Day 4 -
Left side disassembled, cleaned-up
New bearings packed, rear seal installed
Rotor mounted, caliper mounted
Had to grind the caliper, retouched the paint
Right side tomorrow
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Left side cleaned up.JPG (106.7 KB, 69 views)
File Type: jpg Left side done.JPG (92.7 KB, 71 views)
File Type: jpg Grinding required.JPG (98.0 KB, 86 views)
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  #19  
Old 05-11-2017, 10:30 AM
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Here's an 'inside' tip:
See those two sheet metal 'shoulder tabs' that grab the outer caliper?



An old mechanic taught me to close them up a bit before assembly to eliminate any pad rattle.
The inner pad has a spring that centers on the piston but the outer pad has nothing but those tabs. - Dave
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  #20  
Old 05-11-2017, 11:59 AM
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I'm curious, does it matter which brake circuit the brake light switch is in?

When I did my disc brake conversion, I used the rear circuit for the switch.

Nice job on the lines, I'm not sure mine came out that tidy.

Cheers
Bryan
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